go hard jersey

EDIT A member brought this thread back to life and I realized how poorly written it was. I will be going back and correcting, adding info and updates as I can't do it all at once. I'm going back to make it better, 1 page at a time. For some background on me, I have been building Honda's since 1995 and have made plenty of mistakes. Hopefully I can stop some people from making their own. Feel free to ask any questions as I will always respond. The first few pages here I wasn't really sure what direction I was going to go with the car, so they are a little less impressive than the last page is where it's in the currant condition but I plan to keep it forever now so therefore I'm going all out. Before I decided to redo again it was making a awesome 520Hp on a STOCK sleeved B16 on pump gas.


Hi, my name is Travis and I'm 31, by trade a union construction worker, being from New Jersey during high school during the late 90's pretty much everyone I knew were building Hondas, around the time people like Lisa Kubo and Papadakis helped put swapped civics on the map. From high school myself and 4 friends carried over our learning @ MMI in Orlando FL. This is my first online build, and my first civic after a 5 year brake from having to baby sit a car. I had built 9 or 10 hatches an coupes in the past and moved on to a series of luxary cars, but for some reason I missed the high reving, solid shifting monsters. So last week I bought a super cheap white 97 ex with a jdm b16a and a ls tranny that was beat to hell and was planning on just driving it as I already had several nice cars, this was to be my commuter. But that soon changed after about the 20th time I shifted into 3rd and felt that horrible grind. I was planning on keeping this mild and just want a street car to beat around in. It was supposed to be a small budget that I would be doing all the work myself as usual and luckily I do have some goodies that I've been keeping for years.
Some problems off the bat was that whoever did the swap killed the harness so that if you touched it wrong or hit a hard bump the ecu fuse was poping, or it would blow the 15amp fuse for the speedo an alt. I started it at work one day and it was running differant so I popped the hood and saw the pig tails smoking. I had enough. I made the mistake of calling chase at chasebays and placed my order for a millspec obd1 to obd2a harness, pulled my B/S ex one and sent it off. I will be posting pics of the body later this week when I go work on it. My plans for now are yank the ls tranny and install a b16 tranny with a ITR lsd and 4.40 final that I have,but it also grinds. I'm not a tranny guy so instead I opted to send both trannys to SYNCHROTECH and let Dave replace the brass synchros with carbon synchro's and sleeves. I also pulled the rats nest of a harness and sent it off to Chase. I'm going to be removing all the tar from the car & respraying it, moving the battery to the trunk, adding some quick charge stubs, cleaning the engine bay, ect there will be body paint as well because there are some dents & I just ordered a 99/00 front clip, some suspension goodies. Stay tuned for pics as I will be updating periodically.

go hard jersey

I picked up a OEM block off plug for the engine bay as I found a A/C delete from a 97 civic dx that will allow me to remove the a/c box from under the dash but still keep my heat. Just picked up a P06 refabbed ,with fresh resistors. converted to p28 vtec. The chip I had done is a b16 sir basemap with the normal stuff, no knock, no speed cutoff, vtec set to 5800 and red line to 9200. the launch control is set at 4600. I also have a obd2a to obd1 step harness. I can go either way right now as far as the B series goes. I'm considering a turbo kit. If I stay N/A I have a B20 with CP pistons that are 12.0.1 and Manley rods with a ls crank or I can use the B16 bottom / stock and throw a HG on keep low boost and hope for the best. IDK what way I'm going yet as this is supposed to remain a low budget build. Im gettin excited. LOL

go hard jersey

Just bought Skunk2 IM, and a matching 68MM TB. Today it's raining hard and suposedly tomorrow as well. I'll post more pics soon. Feel good after talking to David at Synchrotech from what I hear the carbon synchros are no joke.

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I had these laying around but no wheels for the car. Due to the budget these lugs will probably cost more than the wheels i get.

go hard jersey

I just got the news from Synchrotech that wasn't what I wanted to hear......the kid I bought the quote "perfectly working no grind b16 lsd tranny" that I wasted a day putting in grinds 3rd & is a super scammer. The tranny came with paper work from a build from only 1 year ago from a place in FL called TOTALLY MODIFIED INC. This sucks, one of the 3 bolts that hold the shift mechanism in place backed itself out and was ping ponging around ripping teeth off the final drive and gears. David told me that I needed a master rebuild kit with all carbon synchros and sleeves, $795 and a new final drive $300. Thankfully the ITR lsd is ok. He is giving me the bearings and a good cond. 3rd gear for free. TOTAL SHIPPED BACK TO ME with everything is $1395. Not what I had planned on spending at all but I'm in a bind now. My budget just got beat up, but this is usually how things go. I spoke to Chase at chasebays and supposedly my order will be out soon.

averyvm

iTrader: (1)

Wow looks its gonna be pretty sick for someone who says there on a budget. Nice torque mounts. Never seen them before

go hard jersey

Thank you. I'm going to try to spend on stuff that i know will pay out for me, and so that I try to keep the things I do buy quality. Buying things twice is not where its at I've always tried to plan the build out so I'm not wasting cash on things I may not need or want in the future, in the name of trying to save a few dollars. I had the wire harness issue with the hacked up old one smoking and what not ,and didn't have time to hunt for or fix the old one (it was really bad,the worst I've ever seen), but the budget took a hit with the tranny today. When I say budget for example I'll only try to skimp on very non performance areas. One of these areas would be wheels, instead of real deal wheels unfortunately for now I'll have to end up with replicas where normally I wouldnt do that. Another cosmetic budget example would be with the interior after I de-tar it and sand it down I can't afford to have it pro-painted,(even though it should be) so I'll have to do it myself with a can kit sadly. I've always wanted to paint for real in a booth or even with real deal sprayers but this isn't the right time for that. Anyway here are some pics of what I received in the mail today. Thanks alot for the encouragment an post.

#1) Below is a civic dx A/C delete vent, that will remove the bulky condenser and make a nice little shelf to hold the fuse box when I move it out of the bay and into the cabin.
#2) Civic dx manual steering rack.

go hard jersey

The torque mounts are fom a dude that I found that makes them, if anyone is intrested just let me know and I'll forward you his info. I think they are $80 bucks shipped. I'm stuck with stock mounts for now so I need all the help I can get. Also useing a NRG engine torque dampener which I am NOT a fan of but I have a J's racing one on my s2000 and I noticed alot how much more direct the shifts felt so until new mounts are in my mailbox this will have to do.

go hard jersey

I just ordered some wires, a special surprise valve cover, golden eagle fuel rail, blox fpr, shift ****, & shifter & some jegs fuel line and -AN fittings, some budget headers, (super cheap and will be no big deal if I go turbo) and the 99-00 front clip. The clip was only $350 for the fenders, hood, bumper cover and grill shipped. I already had the ebay special headlights and lip.

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benen closet find lol, im preping the manual rack for either paint or polish idk. A few years back I was going to use a ITB setup I had for a B16 but never did, so I have a brand new goldedn eagle vac box and all the earls fittings that you would need. Make a offer if ya are looking for a ITB set up.

JDM-EK-B18C5

You car gunna be sick bro.

go hard jersey

Thanks for the good karma dude, hopefully it's ok. Wish I could go all out. Should be a cool daily though. If I didn't take that big of a hit for the tranny I prob would have started to piece together a turbo kit, still may but prob will be either B20 Vtec or B16 turbo.

JDM-EK-B18C5

Bro if i was i would get an b20 they are different from the B series.

go hard jersey

Yea up top I posted a pic of my B20 short block I've have one chillin for 5 years. I already know what that set up is all about. I have a B16 complete as well, so it can go 1 of 2 ways. Either throw a head gasket on the B16 and boost it OR take the head off it and put it on the B20. The B20 is already built for high comp w/ cp's 12.0.1 w manley rods, ls crank..20 over. or i can just leave the B16 how it is. I'd prefer turbo but budget permitting. My fiancee and boost dont get along. My bank accounts dont like boost either + I was never even supposed to do anything at all to this car.

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Starting the polish. I dont know what to do afterwards though, should I clear coat it ? Now I'm thinking I should an do something to the subframe. IDK anybody have any fancy subframe shots? nickel plated, chrome, polished, copper? lol

go hard jersey

here

go hard jersey

500 views an only 2 comments, I suck, LOL nobody's hitting it. I'll post some real work pics and more goodies soon. Waiting on the tranny and chasebays millspec harness. The tranny should be here on thursday and harness on wednesday., (EDIT: LOL Chase @ Chasebays scumbagged me and the harness was made like ****, he lied to me 20 times, and arrived 3 months late, just so you know the harness didn't even last 8 months, pins fell out constantly, I currently HIGHLY recommend Xavier at wireworx for any wire needs) then ill start rolling pics out.

go hard jersey

Today I did alot. JUST A TEST FIT. I added the 99-00 front clip for a mock up, started taking out the interior to remove the sound damper/tar & horrible headliner. No dry ice near me so i used a heat gun.

go hard jersey

I had started the trunk last weekend when I moved the battery and to give you a idea of what the rest will look like, I also had dropped the tranny then as well. I think it came out great. (EDIT: 10/21/13 that plastic box is and was dumb, I kept the hooks from the box and just drilled out a blackworks battery tie down and it looks much more refined now. This pic below is currant

go hard jersey

Added the quick charge posts in the fire wall (EDIT, which was a big mistake, in this location, live and learn I wish I never put them in this location because at this point I wasn't looking to the future for being turbo. My breather box goes here now and the battery is in the trunk, they are kind of in the way of the breather.)

boostedteggy718

i wanna see the outcome of this thread. i will be here viewing. wish u luck bro

go hard jersey

And just a mess, prior owner......lol and the weirdest headliner ever!!! Coming down. It's just so dam JDM though,,,. along with the pedal covers that were ebayDM......

Midori.EK9

the front doesnt line up too well but looks good .

go hard jersey

Yea but that will be a issue for the body shop will handle, they are gonna take it all back off anyway. I just wanted to see the situation. Hopefully they get it to line up better but I'm not looking to win any shows with it. I'm only gonna get the $900 special spray job. I just want a quick DD. Happy with the price as that whole clip was $400 shipped and its all new. I don't think I'm gonna put the rear seats back, I like the metal and never drive anyone around. Just gonna put plastic in.

go hard jersey

So today I installed the Blox LCA's and Function & Form struts, Beaks bar. I finished up the tar removal, with a heat hun, a wire wheel for a drill or air grinder, and some sandpaper. I primed with Rustoleum PROFESSIONAL paint and primer. I've used many rattle can paints and the professional seems to work out the best. The struts are 1 piece non-adjustable and good for the street, They are a basic set I don't recommend these at all if you plan to aggressively auto-X or drag race, however if you want to lower your car or just ride around New Jersey roads (which are horrible) they are good. I only used these struts for 18 months and granted in NJ we get lots of salt on the roads, they rusted to ****. Good price for a decant strut. I wanted the PICS at the time due to budget issues but there was a huge wait. The picture below is how the car is now 2 years later. and a Function & Form VS AMR pic.[URL=http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/gohardjersey/media/IMG_0828.jpg.html][/URL