Hammontw

I've got a B18B block that needs pistons and rods and I'll have to get the sleeves honed as well. I have a freshly rebuilt type R head and I was wanting to do an lsvtec build. My problem is that I don't know what would be a good piston and rod combination to use. I'm putting the motor in a 2000 EK Hatch. I've got coilovers, good bushings, and gsr brakes all around so my plan was to have something fun and responsive to drive and to occasionally autocross. I'd like to run pump gas and I'm not sure of a good CR to shoot for. I've got some cash to play with but I don't want to dump too much money into the build. Something mid grade that will take a decent beating would be ideal. This is the first time I've ever built a motor so any input would be greatly appreciated. I hope this is enough information to go off, if you guys would like more info to give a better suggestion that would be great.

Cheers

SIR-G Amp

Is this going to be an N/A build? If it is I would go for a higher static compression ratio. 10:1 should be fun and still keep it daily drivable with 0 issues, especially if you're doing autocross. You need instant power in and out of those turns. (I know, I race autocross and TT) Eagle H-Beam Rods and some JE pistons will do the trick for this in my opinion. Get yourself some proseal rings as well. Make sure you plastigauge the bearings to get an oem fitment. Honda bearings are color coded to indicate their size. Have your machine shop check for taper and out-of-round before you get it honed.

-Amp

DumpdEJ6

I would recommend even higher of a CR, from the massive amount of research I did before I started my LSVTEC build, I settled on 12:1. This was also my first time building an engine, so I researched for months. I can easily run 93 octane gas and my tuner told me he kept adding more timing and it kept being fine, until it has timing that is essentially the same as a stock GSR. I would recommend getting forged pistons, since that is one of the few regrets I have on my build. You WILL eventually want more power, and cast pistons and nitrous don't tend to get along. I used the stock (reconditioned) LS rods with ARP rod bolts and USDM ITR pistons from NPR. I've only driven it about 5k miles so far as it's just a weekend car, but I have no doubt I could daily it...providing I had a GSR transmission instead of the B16 one I have. Highway RPMs are too high for me for daily it, that and no AC.

It doesn't burn a drop of oil and compression is within 1-2 psi across all 4 cylinders, 255 psi across the board. I also am running Crower 402 A-2 cams with ITR dual valve springs, I run it up to the 8200 redline every time I drive it and no issues.

Tuning is going to play a huge part in the longevity of your motor, I HIGHLY recommend getting it professionally dyno/street tuned. Just be aware there is a very slippery slope when it comes to engine mods. "Well I'd like to run these cams, but I'll need to upgrade my valvesprings to do so...that way I can raise the redline...but the stock head port job will choke it up top, so I should probably get it ported...damn, now I need bigger injectors...etc. etc." lol

SIR-G Amp

True ^ but it depends on where he's located as well. For example, my CRX ran like a dream over on the east coast (only like 400 ft elevation) but here in Utah the gas is crappy (91 is the highest at the pump) and my car now hates the summer here.

-Amp

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I'm sorry guys. this is a horribly redundant question in which the OP can search properly, look at making a proper LSVTEC build, and check out the thread on LSVTEC setups just below.

LSVTEC Setups...https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-mo...tup-s-2798896/

How to build a reliable LS/B20 VTEC setup. https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-mo...0vtec-1676914/