wreckeddc4

Hey guys, I've been for the past few days doing some quick reading about different oils for my new motor.
It's an ls/vtec with itr pistons and blox tuner 2 cam on e85.
With so many different brands of oil to choose from and different weights and viscosities, how do I choose one for my needs?
It's going to be drag raced and occasionally street driven.
I've heard of turbo motors running like 20w50 oil but I dont know if the benefits are the same for my 200hp setup.
I've got no problem with running expensive oil. Hell even valvoline synthetic is like 9 a quart at auto zone and the stuff I run in my gsxr1000 is like 12 a quart off the shelf.
Any suggestions or past experiences with different oils is what im looking for. My last motor spun a rod bearing so with this one I'm being very particular on the entire oiling system and bearing clearances.

Golding.racing

i'm running Royal Purple 5-30 xrp in my f20b racer
last engine (h22) spun a bearing and was running mobil s2000 10 -40

Mr. EG

Castrol German or Mobil 1 (5w-30) is what I always run. On occasion I will snag some (ENOS) full syntehtic oil if it's on special. I stay away from RP due to some bad reviews.

ninor

RedLine 5W30

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

If your baller, Brad Penn hands down!

wreckeddc4

Since I'm running ethanol, a few people say to stay away from certain oils. But when I talk with chris Harris from Xenocron, he said that because it absorbs water easily and gets into the oil, but the best course if action is to stay ontop of oil changes.
I've also been thinking brad Penn because there is a local shop that keeps it in stock.

My biggest thing is protecting the bearings. I can't afford to build a third motor this year, so any price per quart would be better than killing another set of bearings, overheating the rods and scarring the crank up.

wreckeddc4

Oh and the motor was assembled with all torco assembly lube, and broke in with torco 30wt break in oil, mostly because I got it as a package deal with that and their zinc additive too.
If that makes a difference

Evoinboost

iTrader: (1)

I run mobil 1 in my evo and civic, it has always done its job.

todahead

i use ams oil 10w40 and i change it every 3-4000k

DartGuy25

Enos 5w30 all day long FTR!

tempsohc

valvoline 5w30

N/A

Get name brands out of your mind, you want whatever oil includes zinc in it, it greatly helps wear in a engine without roller rockers

I use valvoline syn personally



Unfortunatly they no longer have zinc in mobil 1.

93egSLEEPER

3 1/2qts. of Brad penn 10-40 with 1/2qt. comp cams zinc treatment. Yea it's expensive and smells BUT it's the best you can buy.

crxsi1

ive never had a problem w RP and an oem honda filter, but all these oils work well its mainly preference, i guarantee u can find someone thats blown a motor on all these oils, most important thing u can do is change it frequently, now i know its my friend but just using it as an example, he uses regular brand oils on his dsm and changes the oil at about 1500k and has never had a problem ever in the engine deparment, now for the rest of the car ya something always breaking lol dam dsm's

FlewByU352

Your motor only takes 4 quarts?

tempsohc

how would you know if a oil contains zinc?

crxsi1

u usaully have to call the company and ask them

crxsi1

keep the W low and V kinda high and ull be fine....

95 integra

iTrader: (2)

I've run alot of setups with alot of different oils...none of which fail at this rate. Did you ever think that you have issues with your build? I mean, 200whp should cause bearing failure, regardless of what oil is being used. Lack of oil pressure (ie bad filter), potentially. Bad bearing tolerances, absolutely. Over-revving a poor little ls/vtec - also potential.

crxsi1

yes it can be many things that go into it.... but here we r talking about oil..... just remember like i said use a higher viscosity which will help the valve trian.... a higher viscosity will help the w heat and forms a better film protection against the moving parts... but makes it slighty harder to rotate as in the moving parts but by using a lighter weight oil it will inturn make up for that somewat so just go out and test some out.

I use to use penn high rpm's where they used a higher viscosity (40) and lower weight (5) but they dont make it anymore or at least i cant find it anymore, i loved it and im not joking when i say this i really felt a difference in my b16a so much smoother, the response was just better.... i use Royal Purple now and its great too....

m_shake

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...127#Post478127

95 integra

iTrader: (2)

We are talking about oil because the guy has gone through 3 motors in a year and he thinks it's the oil, which might not be the issue....thus are we really talking about oil?

N/A

LOL yours takes more???

m_shake

You guys dont fill till the valve springs are submerged?!

N/A