jacx

My engine (97 B20B) is having low compression (175 cylinder 1 and 4, 155 cylinder 2 and 3) and I believe the piston rings need to be changed after I sucked in a little water during the summer. Problem is that getting to them will be a complete take down and I was wondering if I should resurface/clean the head or just put it back on with new head gasket.

Problem with resurface/clean is that I am pressed for time. The head would need to be done in 2 days at most so I can install on 3rd day due to work. I dont believe a machine shop would have it done in time.

My other plan was to buy another B20B and swap the engines and work on the one I pull out. This way will set me back because the cost of the engine (615 w/ tax) is what it would cost me to rebuild the current engine (timing belt/tensioner, water pump, valve seals, piston rings, head/intake/exhaust gaskets, and head job).

Any suggestions on what I should do and whether the rebuild needs more or less work?

Bently_Coop

If removing the head a resurface is definately a good idea. Shouldn't take more than an hour of time for the machine shop unless there's a line of parts ahead. If your into it for rings though sounds like a full rebuild may be in store. Does your exhaust turn the back of the car black?

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

well, if your going to re-ring it, then you need to de-glaze the walls anyways. It can be done by DIY with a flex-hone.

But if it were me, Id look to a set of YCP pistons and new rods bearings. Thne youll get a little bump in power when its done.

And yes, a fresh surface for the HG is always good practice. Id get sanding barrels and smooth out the casting marks on the intake and exhaust ports while its out.(harbor frieght 15.00) Even install studs for the exhaust.

but its up to you. Its not hard and time consuming to do the above projects. Just make sure you check your P2W clearance and ring gap.

jacx

no it doesnt turn black. the only issue with the exhaust system is a hole in the headers, burn hole on the exhaust tip itself, and a metallic rattle where the catalytic would be at the point where the two pipes connect.

by full rebuild are you including pistons, rods, bearings, all pumps, head parts and such, that route would cost me more than i want to spend. Im not planning on going boost and nitrous is a far maybe. I just want to get the engine running healthy

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Well, you can get by with the new pistons. 200
Rod bearings 60
HG 60
VC gasket 26
FlexHone 65
Surface the head 50

Personally, Id go ARP headstuds as i dont like torquing aluminum threads.

jacx

what about timing belt, water pump etc, the engine came from Honda Kings in Miami with roughly 60k miles and with what i put through it, it should be around 90k+ now.

MisereNoire

Water pump and timing belt would be a good idea if they weren't changed before you installed the motor. As a practice, regardless of what the previous owner/dealer said about when the belt/pump were changed, I replace them (along with a whole other shitload of checklist items) before i ever let the motor in the bay.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

That whole "60k miles" thing is a myth. Don't believe it. If the engine overheated, yes, you should resurface the head. If it didn't overheat, then it's not necessary.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

I know for a fact the engines from HondaKings are 50/50

Some have been overheated before they made it on the boat. Probably pulled from junkyards. Ive seen some of their inventory which didnt have OEM HG's

I do know theyre strict over there in Japan. Every 3 years the cars have to certified which costs alot of $$. So if someone pays the hefty price tag to re-certify it, the engines milage can be whatver.

Now these engines havent been made in 15 years.. so whats being imported is the crap found in junkyards.

But, Its still a honda engine which lasts. I didnt do my oil or water when I did my build. My belt looked pretty new.