Wheelman-CZ

Hello!
I heve left my B16 engine for rebuilt. They heve overbore the crank and use a oversizted ACL Duraglide bearings and use a Royal Purple assembly lube.
Now if I try to rotate the crank it is almost impossible to move it for a first few degree, then it is not so hard to rotate it.

Is this normal?

Thanks for answers and sorry about stupid question, I have alredy try to search.

pythoner

I don't know for sure but it could be compression...

Wheelman-CZ

No this is not the compresion, it is just a block without head...

Westrock2000

From what I remember when the timing belt wasn't attached, the lower rotating assembly was very easy to turn. Like one hand on the crankshaft pulley could rotate it with ease.

D-Rob

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Westrock2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what I remember when the timing belt wasn't attached, the lower rotating assembly was very easy to turn. Like one hand on the crankshaft pulley could rotate it with ease.</TD></TR></TABLE>

On a fresh build?

- Derek

Natural Aspirations

Use a torque wrench and measure the break away torque (how much torque it takes to start spinning the crank). then report back.

Wheelman-CZ

If I leave it for few minutes ( 30 minutes) then it is realy almost impossible, try to mesure how much power I need tomorow, but after first few degree it is not so hard and then if I stop turning and try to turn again it is much easily.

Can this been caused by the assebly lube?

Natural Aspirations

Sounds like your clearances are too tight. Happened to me once after installing ARP rod bolts without having the rods re-sized. Did you plastiguage? Did you use ARP main studs?

Wheelman-CZ

I didnt do it myself, I have leave it in some shop, everybody said that this shop is OK.
Main studs are OEM.
I try to plastiguage by myself i think, this is for last time I didnt do it by myself i think...

ToeJam

My fresh build broke free at around 25lb and spun freely with 12lb of torque.
This is without the timing belt and spark plugs hooked up.

hybrid_KJ

What piston rings. I had that happen on a motor I built with Arias pistons. Crank spun great with no rods. Put rods, pistons and rings in and it was harder than usual to break away. Thought it was a bearing problem so I remeasured everything and it was all on the looser side of spec so that wasn't the problem. Installed the rods and pistons with no rings and it spun over very easily. Turns out the rings just had alot of tension.

ToeJam

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_KJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What piston rings. I had that happen on a motor I built with Arias pistons. Crank spun great with no rods. Put rods, pistons and rings in and it was harder than usual to break away. Thought it was a bearing problem so I remeasured everything and it was all on the looser side of spec so that wasn't the problem. Installed the rods and pistons with no rings and it spun over very easily. Turns out the rings just had alot of tension.</TD></TR></TABLE>

P2W = .0010
RS machine .20os pr3 pistons w/ hastings rings
Ring gap was set to honda specs

When assembling use lots of assembly lube and remember to oil the cylinder walls before and after piston installation.

Wheelman-CZ

Ha.... so today I have take apart a block by myself, I cant belive what I have seen, I dont need a plastigage to say that the clearances of the crank was horible. There is a picture gallery of it: http://wheelman.wbs.cz/album/index.html

As you can see on the rod bearing the first from left looks like new, the second looks like its dead.... This is the same on the main bearing, some look OK some look like are dead...
Thats must be the worst oversizing work on the crank, that could be.

I dont know what to do now, try to do it on a second oversized 0.5?

Natural Aspirations

Lesson to you Kids dont cut honda cranks

4g hatch

scrap the crank not even worth messing with.