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You must take the head off and plug it or you will have a massive oil leak there. When you pull the head off you will see the oil supply passage makes a 90* turn inside. No way to do it with the head on.
You must take the head off and plug it or you will have a massive oil leak there. When you pull the head off you will see the oil supply passage makes a 90* turn inside. No way to do it with the head on.
Hehe, the head is off. That's not the issue, I just don't want to disassemble the head (springs, valves etc)
I'm looking into getting it welded shut, however, I'd like to not have it machined afterwards.
Oh, when you said "before head was assembled" I automatically assumed it was installed. My bad. It can be done assembled but it isn't preferred. Put some grease in the hole and on the tap. Use a vacuum after you are done and a rag in the hole as best you can. After that use some brake cleaner. Welding is another option but most people don't want to deck their head if they don't have to.
Oh, when you said "before head was assembled" I automatically assumed it was installed. My bad. It can be done assembled but it isn't preferred. Put some grease in the hole and on the tap. Use a vacuum after you are done and a rag in the hole as best you can. After that use some brake cleaner. Welding is another option but most people don't want to deck their head if they don't have to.
Yea, I'm going to bring it in Tuesday and hopefully they feel confident enough to weld it without it needed to be decked afterwards.
Yea, I'm going to bring it in Tuesday and hopefully they feel confident enough to weld it without it needed to be decked afterwards.
It's not really an option. Unless you are fine with them sanding it down (preferably over grinding anyways) and using some type of sealant that will most likely fail anyways? No matter how good the welder is its almost impossible to not have some sort of decking issue after welding the hole shut and isn't worth the risk anyways. It can be checked with a straight edge of course and make your decision from there.
It does have a little bit of a rise to it, so I'll try to work it down a little. I'd like to not have to deck it as my P2V clearance is already so tight.
Don't really agree with welding it. Now you have to trace out and drill if you want to use it again on a vtec block. That head looks like it could use a resurface anyway.
Don't really agree with welding it. Now you have to trace out and drill if you want to use it again on a vtec block. That head looks like it could use a resurface anyway.
I hear you on the reusing it part. It could however just be drilled out down the line if someone wanted to mate it with a VTEC block.
I was between a rock and a hard place, this DD project had been sitting for far too long and I need results, ha. I was having a hell of a time tapping it.
It does have a little bit of a rise to it, so I'll try to work it down a little. I'd like to not have to deck it as my P2V clearance is already so tight.
you kind of went over-board with welding it. u could have simply tapped the hole and put a plug in place with the head already assembled.
Went ahead and had it resurfaced. The shop found 2 exhaust valves that weren't sealing fully, so they took care of that as well.
Big shout-out to RJT Machine in Lawrence, Ma. They dropped everything they were doing and took care of me. I was a first-time customer there, and I made the 1.5 hour trek to their door and they definitely hooked it up.
10-05-2014, 08:20 AM
Oil Galley plug on a b20v
