raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

i just want to double check again.

i looked on google images but couldnt find sht.

i was under the impression that they are very close or past their wear limit

h2.4

you can get your seats recut. whoever did them last didn't leave much room after the 45* cut. edit. actually they look pretty deep.

jimmysxxl

They do look deep but that's not necessarily bad depending on pistons/cams combo..I'd do them with some FINE valve lapping compound and let them be.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

Can a 3 angle cut still be done on those? Thats what i wanted to do i already have valve guides and was planning to do some port work as well

EG1834

Those seats are REALLY wide, which would typically indicate worn seats, but the lapping line doesn't go all the way to the edge of the valve, so there's still life left in them. You can still cut a new valvejob too.

GhostAccord

Before you get the valve job you should look into blending down those scratches around the spark plug and valve seats. Kind of look like they were left by a wire wheel/brush.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

yea it was worse. i touched up some of them but im not sure how i should shape the combustion chamber if i start taking stuff off.

do you have any good pictures of how it should look like once its worked on?

should i remove those cast/machine ridges inbetween as well?

turbociv910

you take a wiz wheel to the cylinder head?

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

dremel to clean up the casting. i havent done any reshaping of the ports at all.

oh u mean scratches in the dome i bought the head like that

GhostAccord

That would be what is considered de-shrouding the valve.

Depending on the valve curtain (lift x diameter) that is what you gauge how much shrouding you have to remove. If you are going with a larger bore than stock you could possibly even take it further. However, this type of work really shouldn't be done without a flow bench so you can monitor what is happening as you work the head.

Not sure if you really need to take it to this extreme or not. Here is a picture of my F22A (PT3) with the valves de-shrouded and the combustion chamber polished.



Those scratches next to the upper left intake valve have been buffed out. I am going with a set of larger valves so those dirty old valve seats will be replaced as well.

Ports;
Int.


Exh.

JDMarkLangston

They look a little worn. You already got the head off. Minds well just get a resurfacing if needed and have them lap the valve seat. Wouldn't hurt to get it done then later on down the road

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

no its before i put it together. i just didnt get many responces in my build thread

its about 6000 miles on it after rebuild just checked compression 250-245-240-250

did a leakdown test with same results. cyl #3 is leaking jsut a bit. 5-7% others are 2-3% because my stupidass decided to check on my machinist work and i pulld out one of the pistons to make sure the rings are properly positioned and i only had that shitty harbor freight piston ring compressor...

i am planning to pull the head off and get it worked on once i get the intake manifold.

not really sure who i can go through locally in washington
any suggestions?

does DG machine in washington do headporting?

btw if it was a full hdmi rez i would rock it as my wallpaper looks sexy(last picture)


i red some articles about hand porting but sometimes theres contradicting info posted...



heres what i picked up so far


bowl bending- cleaning and smoothing the area below the valve seat where the macnining meets the casting.
leave the dimple if its too deep
dont go past casting floor so it doesnt change the port dimensions
leave intake surface rough so theres less surface tension

polished combustion chamber and exhaust ports(and pistons?) to decrease heat transfer and carbon deposits.
and if possible bench flow the head before you start so you have base flow numbers...

im contemplating if i should finich it myself or take it to a pro. it was pretty fun doing it when i did the head and intake manifold first time.
but its like"well its looks great but did i make it better or worse"

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

5-7% isnt going to kill you, while im a stickler for perfection, and dont like tolerating anything over 5%, my maximum limit is 10%, and what we would call the service limit here for an engine to run properly is closer to 20%.

Most of your porting work is going to be in sanding and polishing, and cleaning up the divider, you dont have to get crazy and start raping the port with a carbide bit if you dont want to.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

lol thats what i red on most DIY porting articles. dont rape the hole just clean it up.

is the divider offset to one side or dead center
i see some are dead center and others look offset to one side


like this one for example

http://www.maperformance.com/blog/20...cylinder-head/

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

thanks for help btw i thought this head was toast thats why i was contemplating to use the b16 head that had no cam caps.

GhostAccord

Thank you!

What is your screen resolution, 1280 x 1024? I can get you an HD worthy wallpaper shot if you want...



As far as polishing goes I have done my piston tops (not required if you have them coated) combustion chambers, and exhaust ports.
My porting so far.
If your looking to maintain exhaust gas velocity even more. Ceramic coating your header inside and out won't hurt. Or you could try going with a thicker wall stainless steel tubing in your header primaries.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

i rock ebay header for now with heatwrap . my driveway sucks it got beat up in about 6 months. i cant imagine having a 900 dollar header that will turn to junk in a year from dents... and my car is not slammed either.



rocking the ibm laptop i see. respect for those T models they are like tanks.
ill take full hdmi. can use it for my HTPC.
what did you polish your pistons with. dont you have to keep the piston edges sharp? i would think that polishing pad would round them up

4g hatch

do you have aftermarket springs? if so the stiffer ones are hard on the valve seats

GhostAccord

Yeah I was on my tuning laptop down in the garage.....lol I actually have 2 T22's, they are tanks. They take a beating that's for sure!

I polished my pistons with a cloth and jewelers rouge. Wiseco shipped my pistons with a pretty smooth surface and the edges were slightly rounded. No sharp edges to cause hot spots.