vinuneuro

That's really interesting that Supertech uses the 4032 alloy. It's the same one used in H22/F2xc/C32 oem and aftermarket forged pistons. Knowing this it's conceivable that there could be the potential for FRM-compatible custom pistons.

chunky

0.0028". I verified the machine shop's work via my own measurements. It's on the money across all 4. That's right about where I want to be according to my model as well.

The expansion is related to how hot they get. The TBC coating affects the heat absorbed by the pistons, and thus the expansion. There's no two ways about that. A coated piston WILL run cooler and expand less.

Good machine work is a must. I'm very happy with the work this machine shop did.

chunky

I believe I read somewhere that the supertech pistons are made by mahle. Mahle is known for using the 4032 alloy, so it would make sense.

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

Yeap, that is a number I would shoot for also.

chunky

Good to know my model close to what people are actually using.

In other news, FedEX says my newest parts are out for delivery. I hope I make it home from campus in time to sign for them.

EK9 CTR

This is a great write up... Unfortunately, it must be learnt through trial and error ....... Keep us posted... I will be following this build closely as i too would like to order a set supertech pistons for B series block and i never new that piston to wall clearance was this critical....

chunky

Well, my hope is that my model can serve as a good starting point. Or at the very least, alert a beginner engine builder to a recommended clearance that's too big or too small.

chunky

Looks pretty ordinary.


Oh look! Some pretty new cams!



The standard bearing 2.0L K-series cam has evolved to keep up with the big headers, manifolds, and high compression builds that were not around when the original IPS K2 were introduced. The K2 Mark II still represents the choice for a stock block. I went with the K2 Mark III because of my ported head & high compression bottom end.

Also, that is the first consumer set.

Echo7847

Didnt see this yet but did you have a chance to weigh the new supertech's compared to the cp's and oe's?

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

Shooting for 240+, very nice.

chunky

Unfortunately I don't have a weight scale for things of that size. The supertech pistons are 325g though and balanced to less than 1g.

Yeah, here's to hoping I'll get there.

00MRSi

Nice.. Looking foward to your results..

chunky

While doing the trans work, I noticed some things about the 4.764 bearing vs the 5.062 bearing. I ended up messing up the 5.062 bearing b/c I dropped it in without putting the oil guide in first, and then I was unable to get it out via heating the case. The slide hammer & puller ended up jacking up the plastic part.



left = 4.764 bearing from ep3, right = 5.062 bearing from JDM CR-V

The snout diameter of both countershafts is 1.376", so the bearings are interchangeable.

The first thing you'll notice (besides the piece of plastic missing from the bearing on the right) is that the 4.764 bearing has more numerous but smaller rollers. 11 rollers vs. 10 rollers. I measured the outer race size of both bearings, 2.672" diameter x .781" thick. However, differences appeared when I measured the length of the rollers. 0.5191" vs 0.5111" long, 4.764 vs 5.062 respectively. So the the rollers on the 4.764 bearing are ever so slightly longer. Not a functional difference IMO.

Being that the cost of the two bearings is pretty much the same, with the 4.764 bearing being slightly more expensive, I'm going to use that one since having 11 points of contact around the countershaft should be better than having 10.

PirateMcFred

That's pretty interesting. I'm amazed at how many different parts that serve the same function in K-series engines are slightly different. I too would have gone with the 11-rollered bearing.

Thanks for postng the info.

Pirate

0VtecKiDD

good job Chunky, my dyno chart is trembling

chunky

Finally cracked open the packaging today.


These things really are a work of art. It's a shame they won't be visible once they're in the motor. The finish on these cams is incredible. The fitment in the the cam gears is snug. All the lobes line up perfectly.


K2 Mark III, first consumer set.


With the intake advanced fully & the exhaust retarded fully, you'll run into some problems. This is with the lash set at 0.011", the "hot" spec for the cams. :wow:


I found the "minimum" clearance point. Well, in practice you won't want to be anywhere close to this point. I actually found that at 0 retard on the exhaust, things are pretty tight to begin with. There really is not much need to retard the exhaust cam as the exhaust centerline appears to be set very aggressively to begin with. However when I have time, I'll play around with retard on the dyno sometime, and I need to know my limits for that.


In case you were wondering what peak lift on the exhaust side looks like.


And peak lift on the intake side.


Coming up next, claying the motor.

chunky

Just got done claying the motor.

Just lay a few strips of clay in the valve reliefs & quench areas. Set the intake cam to max advance and the exhaust cam to max retard.


Exhaust clearance looks good.


Intake clearance is pretty tight. Still, I have more clearance this time around versus the Skunk2 cams & CP pistons. 50deg advance should be OK in the low/mid RPM range, but you'd want to limit yourself to 45 as the revs climb just to be safe.

alterdcreations

very nice. very good thread

rcracin13

Looking good. We should design a clear valve cover so the cams can be seen. I too thought it was a shame that beautiful cams and the beauty of the valvetrain is all hidden away out of sight.

1.5Slowmatic

wow this thread is amazing. keep up the good work on this

chunky

heh, too bad all we'd see is a bunch of oil splashing everywhere. I'll have to take a picture just before the valve cover goes one. :p

thanks to everyone else that's commented.

Tnwagon

Good to see that smart people are still building cars. It doesn't take much knowledge to put together an engine, but to build one from the ground up without worrying about when it's going to explode takes quite a bit. You seem to have it.

Have any idea when your car will be at full force?

chunky

Hopefully running & street tuned in a week or so. Then dyno tune sometime in early feb.

HatchVX

The work that you are doing is extraordinary. I would have to say that this is first time i have seen someone take this much time looking at the detail into an engine build. Major Props.

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

Grad Student...thumbs up