midwesta

okay first off, here is what i have done to my motor.

jdm gsr
JUN3 cams and valve train
PE timing belt
JG edelbrock manifold
ERICKS 70mm TB
HOLLEY high pressure fuel pump
BENEN fuel rail
RC 310 injectors
AEM cold air intake
MSD ignition
NGK wires
CUSCO oil catch can
custom race header
00itr tranny..no grinds
ACT 6puck clutch w/ superior friction pressure plate
CM 8lb flywheel
FLUIDYNE radiator
SAMCO hoses
Polyurethane engine mount inserts(all of em)
HONDATA s200


Okay, now the car was tuned with the hondata, but only tuned at full throttle, which i know was a mistake, never had time with it being winter to get the car retuned correctly with full and partial throttle tuning. So i was driving the car last friday night, i drove it about 75 miles maybe more, and i started to hear like a vibrating/knocking/taping noise. it would get faster as the revs went up and slower as they went down, and dissappear at idle, i pulled over and popped the hood, and i revved the engine from under the hood and heard it coming from the back of the engine, i am almost sure. i wasnt far from home so i decide to ease it home, then about halfway there things took a turn for the worse and the knocking or whatever got louder then i came to a stop and put the clutch in and the car died, tried to start it, nothing. the knocking was really loud and it was like rattling, like something was just being thrown around inside the engine. i then parked it and got another ride home. i went back and trailed the car home the next day, so now what should i do? take off the oil pan and inspect there? take off the valvecover and or head and check that?? any ideas on what could have happened???

TIA - Nick.

wHOAlly

sounds like rod knock

JDMb18civic

u should take off the oil pan and check...

midwesta

anything too look for specifically??

and if it was rod knock? what do i do then?

DOHCtorTHRUST

it is most likely a spun rod bearing...open the oil pan, if you see shavings(or the bearing) floating in there... its time for a rebuild...

wHOAlly

pull pan, look for metal shavings/chips/bits looks like sand almost

rod knock means spun bearing....depending on damage u might be able to savalge some parts....just dont drive the car or start it anymore

midwesta

here are some pics.

BELOW








ABOVE
is this supposed to be like this?

HONDABROMANDUDE

Hard to see much in those pics. Have you checked to see if the flywheel came loose?

thevanitygroup

I dont know if it just the light or not but there are ALOT of shavings in that oil pan. Start pulling the thing apart buddy. Its rebuild time. Sorry about your loss.

SiR831

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by techintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here are some pics.

ABOVE
is this supposed to be like this?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

normal

wHOAlly

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sp00n’d Supra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pull pan, look for metal shavings/chips/bits looks like sand almost

rod knock means spun bearing....depending on damage u might be able to savalge some parts....just dont drive the car or start it anymore</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by techintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


ABOVE
is this supposed to be like this?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

last pic is normal, casting flash

johnzm

YUM!

looks like good eatin u got there. thats material being ground off something, probably a bearing,

since u have done this much, pull the rod caps and take some pics of them!
im guessing tuning had NOTHING to do with this failure, so dont blame that.

bad oil pump/low oil pressure, or something of that nature killed this beast.

question: was the bottom end ever rebuilt?

clayne

That's definitely a toasted rod bearing.

You're looking at replacing (guaranteed):

1. rod.
2. rod end.
3. crank (the rod journal will be trashed).
4. oil pickup (i recommend replacing this to remove any possibily of metal being trapped in it. it's only about 30$ too).
5. all new main and rod journal bearings.
6. since the pistons will be coming out: new piston rings.
7. head gasket.
8. lower end gasket kit.
9. timing belt (might as well now).
10. water pump (might as well now).
11. oil pump (better do it now).

So anyways.. the work is busy and tedious - but none of it is rocket science. You get to do your first bottom end rebuild (if you haven't already).

The good news is that none of your cylinder head or other mods should have been affected by this. It's also a good thing you didn't drive it too far. Unfortunately the damage is done. Any noise whatsoever means the crank journal is damaged.

clayne

Also. The damage to the bottom of the block casting (the knife edging of the block where it meets the cylinder bore) is a non-issue. It won't present any additional problems once you rebuild the bottom end.

These types of bearing failures are 9 times out of 10 caused by lazy oil changes. Been there, done that, payed the price. However, All b-series typically have the lowest oil pressure going to cyl4. Your top pic does somewhat look like #4. It's either #4 or #1 in the pic.

midwesta

yeah your right its the drivers side cylinder


and i think i know what happened with the oil.

1- the oil catch can was very full
2-the box on the back of the block came loose that the pcv valve is connected to that runs to the oil catch can. it was completely off the block because the bolt was missing.
3-i dont think i was over an oil change, i was changing ever 3,000 km's. which is less than 3,000 miles because my cluster is in km's so i didnt feel like converting haha.
4- unfortunatly i drove the car longer than i should have, i could have saved this, and i KNEW that box on the back was loose because when i replaced the hose the last time on my catch can cause the alternator pulley shredded it, that box was loose. ****.
5 - oh well i have a full LS swap sitting in my old integra right now so i guess that long block is going into my car, i will be putting the whole motor from the oil pan to the valve cover plus the intake manifold and the throttle body into my hatch and bolting it up to the ITR tranny, what else will i need to change??

midwesta

oh yeah, the LS longblock will only be temporary til i get the money/time to redo this gsr block.

midwesta

Damn long day today, pulled the motor outta the hatch and pulled the motor out of my integra, I have never pulled a motor before and I pulled two today in about 8 hours. I think thats damn good. Heres some pics.

clayne

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by techintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn long day today, pulled the motor outta the hatch and pulled the motor out of my integra, I have never pulled a motor before and I pulled two today in about 8 hours.</TD></TR></TABLE>

First time and 2 motors in 8 hours? Pretty good man. In the days before H-T, woulda took a day+ no problem.

midwesta

Yeah and i really just over looked a clutch article so i could get the axles out, but thats all really, the rest was simple, but i didnt know u could unplug the electical **** at both ends and pull the motor out, i undid every little plug!! and left the harnesses in the car! that was dumb, oh well.


tonight i took the tranny off of the ls and the gsr. gonna put the itr tranny on the LS block and run that for now, hopefully less than a month.


anyone have any recommendations for pistons and rods for my setup?

midwesta

okay i got a chance to tear apart the motor here are some pics.

THIS WAS COMPLETELY OFF THE BACK OF THE BLOCK


THE BLUE PCV VALVE WAS GOING TO THE CATCH CAN, THEN FROM THE CAN TO THE IM WITH THAT CLEAR/BROWN HOSE ABOVE


CRANK
















HEAD

johnzm

looks like that crank is still re usable.

wHOAlly

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnzm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like that crank is still re usable. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, looks it to me too, get it micropolished

Hybrid96EK

I'm pretty sure you will be able to polish the crank and restore it. What sucks is that all that crap that you see in your oilpan, some of it went through the entire oil system. It usually hoses head bearing surfaces, cranks, all other bearings, oil pumps, etc.

PirateMcFred

The mains of the cranks look ~ok but what about the rod journals? That was a lot of crap in the oil pan... It came from somewhere. The scoring on the mains was probably from bearing material going through the oil system. Usually the Oil filter has a bypass valve in it so that it will not cut off all oil pressure if the filter becomes clogged. SO when you rebuild open up as many of the oil gallies as possible and flush that crap out, especially the head. Check the cam journals too like Hybrid93Eg said. Too bad that happened, it is always a mess.

Pirate

midwesta

yeah im gonna be replacing oil pump and "return line" is thats even an object. haha but yeah il make sure to flush it all out.