speed1

Hi HT, I need your professional expertise on stroker kit. I am looking to get stroker kit for my built. I am detuning my car from boost to NA. The car will be my DD. My engine is currently 84.5 mm sleeved GSR. My head was freshened up by BLUEPRINT. It consisted of three angle valve job, oversize flat face SINUS valves, PnP, dual valve springs and TR cams plus S2 pro series IM with IL4 73 mm TB.I've searched around but didn't find much on stroker engine. I am looking at CROWER's kit. What do you guys think. I want to stay at my current bore but with 92 mm crank with 11.5.1 comp.(some one told me this is good comp. for DD, 91 octane. I don't want to go crazy, this will be a DD so reliable is on top. Pls. Point me to the right direction. Much appreciated.

speed1

Any one?

PyroProblem

Search for Cheetah, Team Diesel, Fink(in progress), I think B19coupe had one. Theres a few people running around with this combo. It should make more TQ than your typical B20vtec and at a lower rpm.
You'll prob want to lower your redline to help longevity, since there is a little more side pressure against the cylinders.
There will most likely be some clearancing needed also for the rods and the bottom of the cylinders.
You will most likely have to eliminate your piston squirters (if you have them).

I'm in the process of assembling this combo now. I hopefully will have some results before the winter. This will be my first "stroker" build, so I cant comment on longevity or relability but as long as its built and machined properly, I don't think you'll have problems...

speed1

Thank you PyroProblem for your input. Keep us posted with your build.

B23-Vtec

With the 92mm crank if it has oil squirters that is all you will have to remove. The rods shouldnt hit didnt on my 95mm crank. Also the stock Type R rev limit would be fine. I turned mine 10500 for three plus years before the rod bolt broke. Best of luck with your build.

Ricky at InFamous MotorSports

PyroProblem

Oh yeah, I forgot...This guy ^^^ built a monster stroker motor too. Search his name and you can read up on his build. Pretty badass...
Hows the new and improved build coming B23??

On mine, my (eagle) rods just baaarely cleared the bottom of the cylinders. "Barely" as in a piece of notebook paper would slide right in, but a business card would not. I had to take everything all apart and "radius" the bottom of the sleeves...Now I have a good .150" of clearance.

B23-Vtec

Well Brad is starting on the head tomorrow. All new custom cnc port job with K valves in the B head. Scat 98mm crank wisco custom 87mm 15.1 comp pistons and car A beam rods.

PyroProblem

DROOLING!!
K valves in a B head?? Nice!! MORE DROOL!!
Please post pics and a build thread after your finished. I cant wait to see what this thing puts out...
300+/200+ perhaps???
Are you staying with the stock deck height too?

B23-Vtec

Yea last time it was 275 and 181 this time aiming for 300 to 320 and around 220 tq

speed1

Thank you, Ricky. I checked out your build thread. Niiiiice

B23-Vtec

No problem man need anything else just hit me up.

SkunkTooGsr

I got a built a stroker motor myself and now im scared to start it because i think something is going to go wrong ... Its a 95X81 with CP 12.5.1 CR pistons, LS eagle rods, GSR head with Skunk2 P2 cams/gears , P&P 3 angle valve job Skunk2 IM ported to 70mm, Skunk2 70 MM TB,Skunk2 Valves and retainers, tuned on Hondata s300, the builder didnt take out the oil squirters btw, will that be a problem ??? ... B23vtec i seen that u said u revved to 10500 RPM wow thats crazy, almost everyone is telling me that i shouldnt past 8500 with mine. And from experience do you think my setup will make over 220 HP on E85

speed1

why would you afraid to even start it. Did you get your engine build by a wellknown shop. Is your bottom end piece together or did you got a complete kit?

PyroProblem

I'd pull the pan and check it out just to be on the safe side...
They usually seem to hit on anything bigger than 89mm cranks from what I've seen...
You can go past 8500, but its gonna wear out faster. (expected on a RACE only engine)

B23-Vtec

Like pyro said i would pull the pan and turn the motor by hand and check. Those oil squirters should hit and yea you should get 220 out of it. Just depends on the dyno the number means nothing really my car is proof of that. It takes turbo cars with 500+ to run what i do in the 1/8.

speed1

Is this one of the reasons why there's not alot of us go for the stroker engine besides high price of the kit? So, for reliability I should go for the LS crank with aftermarket rods n pistons?

PyroProblem

I'm sure price is a factor for most people. Ive been building mine for the past few YEARS!
Time was also an issue for me. I've moved about 5 times in the past 3 years, so everything would have to get packed up and then unpacked, setup, I'd work on it a little bit, then have to stop again for various reasons...

If the redline is lowered accordingly to the increase of stroke, I believe you can have a pretty long lasting engine.
Compare the F22A (bore, stroke, factory rev limit) and the F23(bore, stroke, factory rev limit) and you'll see how increased stroke affects redline. Same thing with the 1st generation and second generation S2000...

These setups are completely custom. The whole internal geometry of the engine is no longer OEM specs. It cost alot and not alot of people are willing to spend the time and effort for the minimal gains compared to going turbo.

BUT, If you want a sick setup and want to stay with the B series, this is the next step up from B20/vtecs...
To me, its worth it, or at least I hope it will be when I'm finished...

People with other stroker builds are what convinced me to go this route.
Look at B23vtec's build and results...
Again, I consider this kinda like the next "level" of B series.
If you dont wanna go crazy, have cheaper and more readily available internals in case something happens, staying with the factory internal geometry may be the best choice for you...
Good luck in whichever direction you go

speed1

Thanks again for your input PyroProblem. Your explanation makes sense. Like I said before, I just want a reliable D/D with good enough HP to flex sometime. I detuned my car from a supercharged (vortech) was putting down 440 n 244 trq and looking for an N/A setup that can put down somewhere around 250 HP and some good trq.

EG1834

Strokers are only as reliable as the sum of components used and the quality of the machine work. You can shoot for some "ideal" rod/stroke ratio and it blows up on the dyno, while an engine with a 1.45 R/S ratio last 75k.

One thing to consider is that stroked engines will make the same power at a lower rpm than a smaller engine. You may have to turn a B16 to 10,500RPM to make what a 2.2L does at 8500RPM. Lower RPM will have a much greater effect on reliability than a lower piston speed.

PyroProblem

No problem man. I love seeing and reading about stroker builds.
250whp + n/a B series is gonna mean a fully built block and head tuned to perfection. Again as B23 said, 250 is only a peak number. Keep in mind the available torque and hp at the whole powerband, not just in vtec. A 2 liter build will make 15-20 more ft/lbs over a 1.8 liter pretty much everywhere above 2k rpms. This makes the car a TON more fun to drive IMO simply because it feels faster...

A well built b20vtec can be extremely fast and plenty reliable as a DD. This is probably the best option for most people.
If you want to go a little faster for a little less coin and dont mind some compromising some things, H2B is the way to go...

I suggest finding some local guys that have nice setups and having them take you for a ride. Maybe even convince them to let you drive. See what feels the best to you.

What kinda car BTW?
Have you ever ran your old vortech setup in the 1/4?

speed1

Oh, I know it's gonna be fun to drive eventhough it's not a 400hp car. A friend of mine has a 84mm with an LS crank that put down 250hp and 168 trq with S2 stage 2 cams on dynapak. My concern is the reliability, but from what you guys are telling me, I guess as long as I keep under 8500 rpm I should be alright. BTW, my car is DC2 and i never got a chance to try 1/4 mile. I sold the kit to a friend of mine. He is in the process of putting it together with a better setup than mine was.

SkunkTooGsr

Ok so I can I take them out from the bottom oif the oil pan or I have to drop the whole crank to do that, and when I do take them out do I have to tap the head and oil pan ???

PyroProblem

Yes, you can remove them w/o taking the crank out. Get a looong 1/4 extension with a swivel socket and you should be good to go...

What do you mean "tap the head and oil pan"?
No tapping involved. All your doing is removing the squirters and replacing them with plugs...

DDTECH

i love matco extensions..

PyroProblem

I'm a Snap-On *****