JDogg

well... i just picked up another f20b, had some messed up rod berings, but the crank is fine and the rods are fine... just the berings are screwed up.. dunno how that happened. new berings should be here this week, its going in my prelude with a euro r intake manifold, balancer shaft removal kit and i have a hotshot header (dont think my rmf will fit in the prelude). im too poor to buy another valve train right now so its keeping stock cams.

machine4321

thats odd the bearings are gone ...

did you get a chance to measue the length of the vlaves and thickness of the stem ?

will this be the first runnign f20b youve had or have you ahd a few

johnzm

stupid question, whats the gearing on those transmissions like?

is it a good alternative to a h22 trans or (ive heared) H23???

machine4321

not much dieefernt ..i think 3rd is a bit shorter but othere then that and lsd there no real diff

Mighty Mintos

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cpforyou &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
H22A = 87mm Bore cs. 90.7mm Stroke
F20B = 85mm Bore vs. 88mm Stroke

F20B is a motor few GOODIES!

200HP, 145 FT-LBS
It's shorter stroke and better R/S ratio make it more suitable for higher RPM out of the BOX! The stock block revs up to 9000RPM w/o any problems except for normal wear and tear.

It also comes with 11.0:1 Compression.

I was present at the dyno itself, on a DynoJet at the reputable R&D Dyno. The motor made 199WHP w/ JUN3 Cams & an RMF Header on stock bottom end!

After adding the R&D CNC Ported Head to it, it made 213WHP. Quarter mile runs on BFG Drag Radials in a Civic Hatchback with interior were consistent 13.1 - 13.3s. With slicks, the setup would be high 12s for sure.



My opinion, the F20B is a great build for those who would like to keep the block stock, and just build the head with a nice P&P job and nice set of cams.

Maybe not even P&P! Just get a RMF Header, add the JUN3 cams, and you're pratcially around 200WHP. It's the 11.0:1 Compression that helps a lot with the gains.

If you plan on building the block and going to put all that money into it, I would say to stick w/ the H22A.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey thats my dyno graph. I havn't seen that dyno chart in a while. I ran 13.2@103 mph consistantly. could have ran 12 sec if I had slicks.

cpforyou

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mighty Mintos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey thats my dyno graph. I havn't seen that dyno chart in a while. I ran 13.2@103 mph consistantly. could have ran 12 sec if I had slicks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey Minh, how is it going. I was the guy on the dyno after your car, the white Civic guy. Anyways, take it easy.

JDogg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnzm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stupid question, whats the gearing on those transmissions like?

is it a good alternative to a h22 trans or (ive heared) H23???


</TD></TR></TABLE>

same gearing as 97+ us h22 but with LSD.

this is the 2nd f20b i have had... 1st on that will be running.

i cant decide if i want to put it in my prelude or my civic....

machine4321

hmmm tough call lol
i do notice a bit of torque diff but i think its my bottom end tunnign and not fault of the motor

whats the big dog going in ?

JDogg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by machine4321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

whats the big dog going in ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats going in my OTHER prelude....

machine4321

haha ok ...youve got the h22 with the juns in it ...id say throw this in the civic and put the h in the lude

machine4321

you ready to sell me those cams yet

JDogg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by machine4321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha ok ...youve got the h22 with the juns in it ...id say throw this in the civic and put the h in the lude
</TD></TR></TABLE>

nah, that h22 is gone.. lol

but the cams are going in my other f20b that rlz is building... stock junk for now... my h22 is getting sleeved for a big nasty turbo setup.

ShaunRR

Gayson has a hard on for Ludes

machine4321

dammit

JDogg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rochesterricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gayson has a hard on for Ludes </TD></TR></TABLE>

damn, you been hanging around with gay rob too long... hahaha

. o 69 o .

i cant believe no one asked this yet...

what is the deck height difference between the h22 and f20b? If it is the same as an H22, couldnt you basicly swap in h22 crank, rods, bore out the cylinders because of the lack or FRM and run 12:1? sounds like a good poormans bottom end build up

MUGEN_CF4

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i cant believe no one asked this yet...

what is the deck height difference between the h22 and f20b? If it is the same as an H22, couldnt you basicly swap in h22 crank, rods, bore out the cylinders because of the lack or FRM and run 12:1? sounds like a good poormans bottom end build up</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can't bore out the f20b to 87mm reliably. You'd have one siiiick motor if you resleeve it though.

ShaunRR

The H22/23 and F22/23/F20B blocks all share the same 8.643 deck heights.

JDogg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MUGEN_CF4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You can't bore out the f20b to 87mm reliably. You'd have one siiiick motor if you resleeve it though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

but you can stick h22 crank and rods in there.... get some custom pistons and your golden..

or you can be like me and use some 5.96whatever" shelf eagle rods with teh stock 88mm crank and some custom pistons and try to make stupid hp

MUGEN_CF4

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

but you can stick h22 crank and rods in there.... get some custom pistons and your golden..

or you can be like me and use some 5.96whatever" shelf eagle rods with teh stock 88mm crank and some custom pistons and try to make stupid hp</TD></TR></TABLE>

Putting h22 crank and rods in there essentially removes whatever advantage the f20b bottom end has over the h22. Why do that? why not just build an h22? On the other hand resleeving the f20b you can increase the displacement and keep the advantage of the rev-happy rod-stroke ratio, building a flatter torque curve and extend peak horsepower farther than the h22.

ShaunRR

Actually, one of the primary advantages of the F20b over the H22 is that it doen't use FRM sleeves. That advantage remains with a swap of the rotating assembly.

MUGEN_CF4

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rochesterricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, one of the primary advantages of the F20b over the H22 is that it doen't use FRM sleeves. That advantage remains with a swap of the rotating assembly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, the f20b does not have FRM, but this advantage won't be realised until the f20b receives more aftermarket piston support.

JDogg

custom pistons dont cost much more than shelf pistons.

machine4321

later on down the road i planed to sleev and bore to 87mm or 89mm but keep the f20b crank and rods....

but that wont be for some time now

. o 69 o .

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rochesterricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, one of the primary advantages of the F20b over the H22 is that it doen't use FRM sleeves. That advantage remains with a swap of the rotating assembly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

bingo!... that is what i was thinking.