albayfz450

Ive searched but couldnt find anything. I got a 96 spec type r with a b16 lsd tranny but its starting to smoke a bit so i wanted to know what would be a better solution. Another type r long block? Or buy a h22 euro r or type s and make it an h2b. I dont want to rebuild my block because i dont trust rebuilt engines from past experience. All this will be going in a em1. It will only be used as a dd and drag a few times a year.

albayfz450

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SIred91

Have someone reliable rebuild the block.

93egSLEEPER

H2B for a DD app.... IMO not the best idea. How many H22s wanna spin 4k constantly on the freeway....and who wants to pay to fill that up? Find a good machine shop and rebuild the block. New gaskets, bearings, rings pumps and belts is just as reliable if not more reliable then a used long block you dont know the history of. Plus its way cheaper then a H22 longblock that you will need to buy mounts and all that other stuff necessary to put the H22 in your chassis. H2B adapter kits are around 1k alone.

turbociv910

youl be gettind rid of ac and ps

h22crxpwr

Kit is not that expensive. QSD kit is like 700 bucks. and uses all B series mounts.

Sell the R and you will have a good amount of cash to do the H2B..

power and torque over the type R is not even a question..

you wont be dissappointed with the H2B..

Good luck with whatever you decide.

albayfz450

Thanks. I want to go h2b but is there a way i can keep ac?

m_shake

Gonna have to get creative to run a/c... minimum I could think of is custom ac lines and a hacked up frame rail for belt clearance...search h2b stuff to see how little room there is.

the171

this is a no brainer. H2b wayyy better performance wise. Much more time consuming, will end up costing more. there are pros and cons, such as the highway crusing, which can be addressed.

When I was planning my H2b setup, I thought about getting the euro r. went with the regular jdm h22a to save coin. If I could go back I would get the type r engine. It already comes with the good intake manifold, the single crank pulley, 11:1 compression, a ported head, more aggressive cams, a higher rev limit, a decent header, the cool lookin valve cover, baller status, etc. I spent a fair amount on my basic engine trying to achieve 220whp while the euro r would have done it with far less upgrading. Of course if you have higher goals than mine, may as well just get the basic h22a cause it all gets changed out anyway.

AC & PS is tricky. you have no room in that area. Im sure you could leave the stock system on the engine (without PS) if you cut a very large portion out of the frame rail. I use a MR2 pump for PS.

albayfz450

Where can i buy a good euro r longblock? Are they the same as the type s?

albayfz450

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albayfz450

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em169

I jus ordered the qsd kit and I've been calling to confirm my order since Saturday think everything is chill?

ThA5oLuTiOn

If you know what you doing and Know how a motor work, H2B with the right combination transmission is the way to go.

albayfz450

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turtleman321

Qsd sometimes takes a while to get back to you. They have hours something like 5-8 pm pacific time

albayfz450

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SiR_Chris

You got a build thread mate or more info to read up on how you've managed this? Have you put a switch in or is it running at max all the time?

OP, H2B is the way to go (IMO)
I hadn't thought about the 4k on the freeway for hours, I don't think it would cause any major concerns tho? It's below VTEC engagement anyway. You could put a longer 5th in I guess. I'm going B16 with Quaife LSD.

albayfz450

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albayfz450

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h22crxpwr

they take a while to get back to you..

Its normal.

Ac will take a little fabbing but you could make it work somehow.

albayfz450

Coo now i just gotta find a place where they sell type s or euro r longblocks. are the h23 blue tops any good?

albayfz450

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the171

I purchased the electro hydraulic pump for a 93 MR2. It was expensive because I bought it new, but you can find them used. I then used a Karcepts installation kit. The kit is designed for k series engine swaps... But will work on H2B swaps. It bolts where the torque mount went on the passenger side. The kit comes with a mounting bracket, the high pressure hose, fittings, harware, and the necessary relay and circuit breaker. I run a switch at the dash, although its not necessary. The rest of the parts you just steal from the civic's original system. The pump has an adjustment screw so you can dial in the perfect feel I highly recommend this setup, and Karcepts products.

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread...power+steering

dc4teg95

innovative mounts makes a h22 ac bracket for ek/em chassis