Differences in B engine blocks? Low Dollar All-Engine build?
01-11-2013, 12:35 PM
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Differences in B engine blocks? Low Dollar All-Engine build?
I found conflicting information on this topic, is there any difference in the short block between a B18 and B20?
Per Wiki:
"Allthough it has so many variations, the basic design differs very little among the B-Series... while the short block used for B16B, B18 and B20 engines has a deck height of 212mm."
So if building a short block from scratch, as detailed (for high dollar) multiple times by TheShodan, it seems that I could use my tired but undamaged shortblock (B18B1 because that is what is expected by smog in my Acura) and install selected rotating assembly parts and get it balanced.
Here's what I don't get: Is the piston cooling oil-squirter system built into the block casting of certain models, or can it be installed on a B18B1?
If building an "all-motor" B series on a low budget for a daily driver on pump gas, good drivability at normal rpm's - with no desire to increase rpm range:
Here are the parameters I'm hoping to get an answer to:
Block: If no difference, I'd keep my same bare casting (B18B1)
Oil Squirters: If they cannot be installed in B18B1, what USDM blocks have them?
Crank: B20? B18C...? Reman or aftermarket design?
Rods: B20 OEM? Aftermarket for B20? (likewise B18C..)
Pistons: Without excessive rpm's or compression ratio, are cast pistons sufficient?
rod pins: are ARP necessary for a mild build?
Head bolts: are ARP studs necessary for a mild build, or if I plan to swap heads often?
Overbore limit on B18B1? Would another casting give superior overbore?
Head:
Which head for a car with no VTEC computer, and no desire to rev over 8K? (obviously margin for error is good insurance)
Biting the bullet and going VTEC and/or DOHC which head do I use?
If going VTEC, which computer?
I may go ahead and keep my tired but smog-passing B18B1's head in storage plus any other legal bolt-on equipment that is replaced for biennial inspection, and go all illegal for my head and bolt-ons. There are two other options:
1. swap correctly to pass smog as a Type-R, installing the whole legal wiring and matching smog equipment, and go through the legal hassle with the smog referree.
2. make the head change hidden, so OBDII sees no problem either. Even add VTEC/DOHC if a piggy-back computer can control it and remap fuel.
Help with a LOW-DOLLAR ALL-MOTOR build would be greatly appreciated.
($1K at a machine shop, maybe $2K)
I asked a similar question, but the thread took a different path. If the head swap requires different intake & exhaust, so be it, but if it can use the same (or upgrade of the same) that would be best from a smog perspective. Ignore intake/exhaust for this thread.
If my tranny ratios are insufficient (honestly I like my ratios, it seems short throw as I received it) I'll swap that at another time. LSD kits are likely better than stock, and I could change fifth gear to a long ratio at that time (and upgrade syncros if dictated). (my personal preference) So ignore trannies for this thread.
Per Wiki:
"Allthough it has so many variations, the basic design differs very little among the B-Series... while the short block used for B16B, B18 and B20 engines has a deck height of 212mm."
So if building a short block from scratch, as detailed (for high dollar) multiple times by TheShodan, it seems that I could use my tired but undamaged shortblock (B18B1 because that is what is expected by smog in my Acura) and install selected rotating assembly parts and get it balanced.
Here's what I don't get: Is the piston cooling oil-squirter system built into the block casting of certain models, or can it be installed on a B18B1?
If building an "all-motor" B series on a low budget for a daily driver on pump gas, good drivability at normal rpm's - with no desire to increase rpm range:
Here are the parameters I'm hoping to get an answer to:
Block: If no difference, I'd keep my same bare casting (B18B1)
Oil Squirters: If they cannot be installed in B18B1, what USDM blocks have them?
Crank: B20? B18C...? Reman or aftermarket design?
Rods: B20 OEM? Aftermarket for B20? (likewise B18C..)
Pistons: Without excessive rpm's or compression ratio, are cast pistons sufficient?
rod pins: are ARP necessary for a mild build?
Head bolts: are ARP studs necessary for a mild build, or if I plan to swap heads often?
Overbore limit on B18B1? Would another casting give superior overbore?
Head:
Which head for a car with no VTEC computer, and no desire to rev over 8K? (obviously margin for error is good insurance)
Biting the bullet and going VTEC and/or DOHC which head do I use?
If going VTEC, which computer?
I may go ahead and keep my tired but smog-passing B18B1's head in storage plus any other legal bolt-on equipment that is replaced for biennial inspection, and go all illegal for my head and bolt-ons. There are two other options:
1. swap correctly to pass smog as a Type-R, installing the whole legal wiring and matching smog equipment, and go through the legal hassle with the smog referree.
2. make the head change hidden, so OBDII sees no problem either. Even add VTEC/DOHC if a piggy-back computer can control it and remap fuel.
Help with a LOW-DOLLAR ALL-MOTOR build would be greatly appreciated.
($1K at a machine shop, maybe $2K)
I asked a similar question, but the thread took a different path. If the head swap requires different intake & exhaust, so be it, but if it can use the same (or upgrade of the same) that would be best from a smog perspective. Ignore intake/exhaust for this thread.
If my tranny ratios are insufficient (honestly I like my ratios, it seems short throw as I received it) I'll swap that at another time. LSD kits are likely better than stock, and I could change fifth gear to a long ratio at that time (and upgrade syncros if dictated). (my personal preference) So ignore trannies for this thread.
01-11-2013, 03:41 PM
#4
Re: Differences in B engine blocks? Low Dollar All-Engine build?
Just cause im bored...
Block: Bid difference sell the complete LS
Oil Squirters: Can't be installed- comes in Vtec blocks
Crank: B20 and LS same B18C shorter
Rods: u said low dollar...leave the stock ones
Pistons: u dont need RPM's or compression? Stock is fine...look at how many miles are on your motor
rod pins: bolts? not needed
Head bolts: not needed
Overbore limit on B18B1? 81.5 peeps have gone as far as 82.5 but that's just stupid IMO...NO another casting will not give superior overbore (whatever that means)
Head:
Which head for a car with no VTEC computer, and no desire to rev over 8K? Seriously? stock head on whatever long block you have.
Biting the bullet and going VTEC and/or DOHC which head do I use? You can use any B series Vtec head. There would be no reason to go single cam Vtec since your already DOHC. Your question will make more sense like this (Biting the bullet and going LS/B20 Vtec...which head should I use? B16/ITR or GSR
Say you do bite the bullet and go this route...it totally goes against the grain of your original question and goal. "low budget for a daily driver on pump gas, good drivability at normal rpm's - with no desire to increase rpm range"
Take the advice that was given to you on your first thread!
Block: Bid difference sell the complete LS
Oil Squirters: Can't be installed- comes in Vtec blocks
Crank: B20 and LS same B18C shorter
Rods: u said low dollar...leave the stock ones
Pistons: u dont need RPM's or compression? Stock is fine...look at how many miles are on your motor
rod pins: bolts? not needed
Head bolts: not needed
Overbore limit on B18B1? 81.5 peeps have gone as far as 82.5 but that's just stupid IMO...NO another casting will not give superior overbore (whatever that means)
Head:
Which head for a car with no VTEC computer, and no desire to rev over 8K? Seriously? stock head on whatever long block you have.
Biting the bullet and going VTEC and/or DOHC which head do I use? You can use any B series Vtec head. There would be no reason to go single cam Vtec since your already DOHC. Your question will make more sense like this (Biting the bullet and going LS/B20 Vtec...which head should I use? B16/ITR or GSR
Say you do bite the bullet and go this route...it totally goes against the grain of your original question and goal. "low budget for a daily driver on pump gas, good drivability at normal rpm's - with no desire to increase rpm range"
Take the advice that was given to you on your first thread!
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