TypeRMOBBiN209

Well i have searched and searched and all i can seem to find is people running a catch can set up from either from the back of the block or from tapping the valve cover for the fittings.

i have seen a few pics of people running a hose to the catch can from the stock valve cover nipple like this...does any one know where the other hose would go?


could i run the other hose to this fitting on the block?

TypeRMOBBiN209

bump

EF_NITROUS_FEED

i think that fitting on the back of the block goes to a oil galley??????

TypeRMOBBiN209

it pretty much leads back to the crank case

EF_NITROUS_FEED

right....but wont oil shot out?

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

That fitting is one of the two hoses connecting to the top of the stock breather canister on the back of the block. Yes you could run a hose from that to your new catch can, but that certainly won't help with crankcase pressure.

You need to run two big fittings on the block or on the valve cover (or both) if you plan on making a difference. The stock breather canister has one large port and that small port feeding it. It also runs on vacuum when not at WOT so it really does quite a bit. An aftermarket catch can is meant to reduce crankcase pressure at WOT when there is little vacuum to draw out the gasses.

TypeRMOBBiN209

well since i have a vented catch can wouldn't i really not need a vacuum source..isn't that more for a sealed catch can so it can pull the fumes since its not vented? i was just thinking since you see the high hp cars with maybe 2 fittings on the valve cover and 2 behind the block they would need more ventilation since they probably build way more crankcase pressure. i thought maybe using the stock valve cover nipple and the small fitting behind the block would be just like the same thing just smaller and efficient enough to vent my motor since all it is is a bone stock type r motor

96dxB16

I run a line from the stock canister and the VC to my catch can (no PCV valve), which is then just vented to the atmosphere.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

That is correct, but just think about what your doing. Your trading a PCV system that works extremely well at part throttle, for a vented system that works okay at WOT...

High horsepower race cars use multiple large diameter lines to allow pressure to vent at WOT where they spend most of there time. If your driving a stock Type-R that spends almost all of it's time at part throttle (vacuum), then you definitely won't see any benefit from a vented system.

Now switching to a PCV system with a good aftermarket baffled catch can (Endyn or 5-Star racing) with larger breather tubes that still returns fumes back to the manifold can give you the best of both worlds. Vacuuming the block at part throttle, venting at WOT, and separating more oil while burning fumes in the process. You can also opt to swap the PCV out for a breather filter on race days to keep the fumes out of the combustion chamber when racing.

Keep in mind your stock Type R catch can has baffles and does a pretty good job of separating oil on a stock setup. I've run clear lines on mine from the valve cover to the intake, and from the PCV to the manifold and had no signs of liquid oil making it out in either direction. Of course the one I had from the PCV to the manifold didn't last long as it wasn't reinforced (it collapsed under vacuum after a few trips) so I wasn't able do a long term test on that side.

This is all my opinion from researching though, and the reason I went with a new OEM breather tank when mine was leaking instead of spending a bunch of money doing the aftermarket thing. I'm sure other may disagree.

TypeRMOBBiN209

that actually makes pretty good sense..how do you suggest hooking it up?

TypeRMOBBiN209

anyone else have any input on this or how i wanted to run the catch can? it would be greatly appreciated

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

You will need two of each of these from Honda to attach the hoses to block.



You will also need a freeze plug like the gold one shown in the Endyn kit to plug up the hole in the block from the old canister.



And here is a pic of how the system is plumbed for automatic drain-back. It must be mounted higher than the nipples on the back of the block for the oil to flow back down the tube.



Here is a good picture of Endyn's optional top grommet and PCV valve for running a closed system (on the streets).



As I mentioned before, all this stuff is expensive and a pain in the *** to find...

96dxB16

The crap that ends up in my catch can I would not want going back into my oil. Its like a mix of fuel and oil, its pretty nasty.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Makes sense. Must contain blow-by from the compression stroke.

TypeRMOBBiN209

thank you so much that was helpful! well i went ahead and ordered the 2 fittings for the block from honda...last question. Do i necessarily have to have a drainback? and if i dont would it be ok to mount the catch can low like pictured (by the windshield washer resovoir)

96dxB16

I would not drain back, you will need to empty it from time to time.

TypeRMOBBiN209

perfect..so its ok to mount the can lower right? since i wont need to drain back

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, that will be fine. Just make sure you have access to the drain on the bottom of the can.

greenweeneer

what size was that freeze plug?

TypeRMOBBiN209

i think 14mm

kyosoeg6

iTrader: (7)

it is a 14mm hex

96dxB16

I take back my drain back comment. I recently spun a bearing because I pushed so much oil into my catch can. I have since replaced the crank, rod and catch can to now drain back into my oil pan. I don't think I would drain into the back of the block, I would go straight into the pan.