Originally Posted by dpaqu

It's $300 dollars wasted if it's not needed for your build. The only way to know if it's needed is to do it and see if they break. If you don't care to do things cheaply buy the exspensive rods but without testing you don't honestly know that they are better than the stock rods.

Nevermind all that. Google sloppy mechanics. Couple guys have figured out you don't need half the crap everyone thinks you do. It's an paradigm shift. 800hp with a junkyard 4.8L 300k mile engine from a cargo van. gap the rings, reuse everything else, homemade turbo kit, decapped injectors, megasquirt, $300 cam and $300 Chinese turbo and your good for low 9's in a 3k lb car.
​​​​​The engine is now a replaceable part. $300 junkyards everywhere.

Not a Honda but the way those guys share info is to be admired. By pooling knowledge they are all better off and there builds price to performance ratio clearly shows it.

Originally Posted by 2LEM1

Personally, I'd run Skunk parts before Brian Crower.

And that's saying something.

Originally Posted by solorex

Story: I have a fully built Endyn B20Vtec that I threw a rod in several years ago. The motor made good power: 236whp 155ftlbs torque, this was with a 2.5" collector and 2" exhaust which I know is choking it. The combination of high oil temps and a mis-shift down the straight at a local track, contributed to me throwing a rod. Looks like the ARP2000 rod bolt let go. Bottom end was Eagle Rods, Wiseco pistons. Block was posted.

I am in the process of rebuilding. After reading numerous posts on here, I have seen a lot of people making good power and reliability with stock rods (w/ ARP bolts) and cast pistons. Clearly a lighter rod/piston combo has an advantage, but in an NA application is rod strength really the issue? I'd rather not fork out the extra $$ for premium rods if it's not necessary. Thoughts?

Car is used for occasional track days, autocrosses and hillclimbs, it's used on the street, but definitely not a daily driver.

Originally Posted by solorex

Your build is what intrigued me to write the post! I was going to go this route, but seems like I'm changing my mind now and going with a Wiseco piston and aftermarket rod. Anyone know if the Brian Crowers are chinese made? Is that why they are cheaper? Seems like they have a good rep though.

Originally Posted by solorex

Thanks everyone for the feedback, getting the quote back from the machine shop today so I will see what kind of damage I am looking at and make the decision. Despite all the discussion I am leaning towards BC Lightweight sportsmans with Wiseco pistons. Compression is 12.5:1. I have an oil cooler now, but this will be seeing high temps and revs during track days just thinking the forged components will add piece of mind and lighten the rotating assembly. Everything will be balanced of course, I am sending out my flywheel, pressure plate to get re-balanced as well.

Originally Posted by TheShodan

Good luck, although you won't see any difference in the BC lightweight sportsmans rods over the OEM. Been tracking for years in the EM1 Civic at over 218whp w/ OEM rods and Wiseco Pistons.

The $300 would be better utilized by getting a better radiator and concentrate on the brakes/tyres over some silly BC "Lightweight rods". But, we all have our path to follow, just perhaps in different ways.

Originally Posted by solorex

I'll see what the estimate comes in at... got a good radiator, brakes and tires are done. The car is well sorted I have been racing since 2001. The shop already has the ARP bolts for the stock rods, so its just what I want to pull the trigger on.