fuzzysig

what would be the optimal intake length for otherwise stock j35?

2LEM1

iTrader: (1)

Optimal?

About 4 feet.

fuzzysig

I'm trying to make a tuned intake similar to what I had for my b series with 3 inch pipe going into 3.5 inch and V stack.
worked great and the RL sounds badass with aftermarket short ram.

Caoboy

That is the result of your 'tuning'? It sounded badass?

Did you do any actual testing or just butt dynoed it and called it a day?

GhostAccord

The intake on my J35Z5 is 31" from throttle plate to the opening of my velocity stack.


K&N 9" x 6" x 5" Filter
6" x 3.5" Velocity stack
3.5" Aluminum tubing
stock 80mm Ridgeline MAF housing
MDX 80mm throttle body

This is on my 2012 Ridgeline with the 80mm MDX throttle body ported intake and RV6-P pre-cat delete, J-Pipe, HF cat and Bosal exhaust. Love the throttle response and sounds from under the hood.

fuzzysig

I didn't do any tuning on the RL since I just got the car...
but I did on the b series.
I'm just asking if anyone did tune the j35 for optimal intake length...
and yes even with just a piece of pipe the rl sounds pretty fn nice. its definitely more fun to drive than stock airbox. people don't know what it is coming at them making all kinds of crazy sounds

I'm gonna have to throw a wideband on it and test the length that works best

ghost accord thanks for the picture I totally forgot about those plumming kits that I can make myself
do you have any suggestions how to get the use of the stock wideband sensors without affecting the voltage? I know I cant just wire up an air fuel ratio gauge to them and my scangauge doesn't show the lambda either.
I'm assuming that theres no such thing as k-pro for RL ecu because of the shawd system

hows your city MPG btw. mine sucks really bad I'm around 12-13mpg a lot of times

GhostAccord

With these newer vehicles that are using air fuel sensors, aka wideband O2 sensors. You can use the short term and long term fuel trims to help tune, modify and monitor your engine fuel performance. Most scan tools should show you the + and - percentage of STFT and LTFT for bank1 and bank2 along with ignition timing. You can use these to see if your modifications have made any affect on fueling. Doing the ECU reset every time you make a modification to the intake, engine and or exhaust. Will help you see what changes are being made to fuel and ignition based on the modifications you make.

A positive fuel trim means that there is more air in the exhaust gas mixture, running lean. Therefore the computer will increase the fuel input.
A negative fuel trim means that there is more fuel in the exhaust gas mixture, running rich. Therefore the computer will reduce the fuel input.

My MPG is **** poor because I can't keep my foot off the throttle most of the time

As far as tuning goes. I just bought KTuner from Xenocron.com for my Ridgeline. From what I have read it will do the trick for me. It is a USB to OBD flash application.

fuzzysig

lol everywhere I look RL is always missing from the list. theres almost zero aftermarket support for it anywhere.
cant even find a short ram for it theres about 2 companies that make a basic short ram fro RL
pretty lame I'm gonna have to switch to TL sh-awd since it has much more options. even though RL is an amazing machine haha

and yea I suspect that my mpg is low for same reason
on the freeway after resetting the trip meter I got 35mpg for about 10 miles and driving from Oregon for about 3 hours I got 28.7mpg at the end of the trip.
then I drove in town and was like wtf. 11.2 mpg

02BladeRider

how exactly to tune with fuel trims? what values are we aiming for?
does the intake length really make that much of difference? did 80MM MDX TB make a difference?
what about TB spacer?
thank you in advance

GhostAccord

1. You need tuning software
2. The best ST and LT fuel trims would be 0 but +/- 2 - 5% is usual.
3. Intake length before the throttle body isn't as important as the intake plenum volume and runner length after the throttle body. Any change in the diameter or flow of the intake will require MAF calibration.
4. Yes, with my setup it made a difference in throttle response. It required calibrating the mass air flow sensor (MAF) and drive by wire (DBW) tables to get it right. This requires tuning software, I use KTuner.
5. Throttle body spacers don't really do much on these engines, the intake plenums are tuned for the displacement @ X RPM.
5b. If you are referring to an adapter plate to mount the J37/ZDX/MDX throttle body to the stock J35 manifold, I made my own adapter plate. I think there are some available online.

02BladeRider

thank for reply.
I have Ktuner. I am messing with DBW tables. but im no pro. can you share you Tables so i can see which way u made changes ? also how did you do a MAF calib?

GhostAccord

My 2012 Ridgeline does not use the same DBW tables that your TL uses in KTuner. Mine is TPS vs VSS (Km/h) while yours is TPS vs RPM.

I zeroed out my ST and LT fuel trims along with maxing out any of the parameters for any other fuel additive tables. The KTuner forum is absolutely no help. I actually used the HP Tuners forum to help me figure out what to adjust to cancel any additive fuel tables. If you were to ask this on the KTUner forum the moderator/owner would give some vague response and tell you to take your car to a professional if you don't know what you're doing. Kind of a douche that way.

I have made some modifications to my intake this week and will be doing another MAF calibration this weekend. I'll try to take notes and share them with you.

02BladeRider

I hate the Ktuner forum. the Ktuner moderator is a douche bad. no help at all. every time he says to go to the help section. but it is useless.
How do you do a MAF calibration? i do not see this in Ktuner ? are you using Ktuner as well?

GhostAccord

Yes I am using KTuner, there is no MAF calibration button in KTuner. You have to create a new calibration with the fuel trims and additional fueling and timing turned off. This is not anything you are going to find on any KTuner forum. Not eve sure if you will find it on any Accord or TL forums. There aren't a lot of DIY'ers on the Ridgeline forums getting that far into the tuning so I have been on my own.

It poured rain here all weekend and I wasn't able to get out and do any MAF calibrations. Humidity was way too high to get good clean baseline readings. Where I am located this is usually the best time of year for me to tune. I am at sea level with temps in the -2*C to +5*C range, it is nice cool crisp air with pretty much 0% humidity.