bigsnorlax

Looking for around 200whp as an actual goal..
Pretty basic off the shelf parts used, will be put together by a buddy at a shop (i got no garage ) and he has "years of experience," and not too mention all the tools and knowledge. Going for a peppy, reliable DD, and smooth power band for minor auto cross.

Bottom end:
F22A1 Block - done
Balanced stock 95mm crank - done
Bisimoto 86mm (1mm overbore) 12.1 pistons - done
Bisimoto H Beam rods - done
F22 parts high flow oil pump - planned

Cylinder head:
F22a head - done
Bisimoto level 2 cam - done
Bisimoto pro springs & retainers - done
Bisimoto adj. cam gear - planned
1mm over size stainless intake valves - done
3 angle valve job - done
new guides - done

Bolt ons:
extrude honed F22A6 intake manifold - done
generic cheap CAI - super done
Header... Still havent picked one/ found one.. guess im stuck with the bisimoto one eh?
Kteller 2.5'' piping
resonators & muffler undecided but not important to build questions..

I'll be bumping an AEM EMS ecu off a buddy, and going to for an EGR delete as well.
QUESTIONS
1. Are there any other options for a good header other than Bisi? I see DC ones and megans and the crappola ebay ones, but fear they might all be more restrictive than Bisi's.

2. What should I be able to turn this thing to? Seeing as these F22's are so under square, I cant see going past 7k.

3. Other than a new valve job and new valves, will i really benefit from some head porting?

4. Advice? Any wisdom? First import build, after a taste of what my friends 5.0 was like after the past 6 months of piecing together, i decided it was my turn.

bigsnorlax

anyone? :D

PyroProblem

Sounds like a pretty solid build. Id might go with a 3" exhaust though...
200 whp should be easily attainable with gobs of tq everywhere.
Find a good reputable tuner and you should be good to go!
Another thing, I didnt see injectors mentioned. The stock ones may become a limiting factor. Triple check your specs and clearances is my best advice.
Good luck with the build.

bigsnorlax

Thanks! Its pretty much all you can do with these F's its seems if your not doing anything too crazy, you just look at bisimoto's website, click add to cart, and repeat a lot lol.

The tuner i met up with did not mention anything about injectors, and i was unaware of these becoming limiting. Is their a way to tell? I know it is a must on forced induction but just when do you justify going larger when its N/A? I guess ill go speak to some people about this as well.

I stopped by earlier today to see how the work was going on my block, friend seems to have it under control. We had to order some OEM bearings today with his advice as to which size. He told me he likes to keep the clearances a hair looser in the bottom end. Does that sound right? I trust him, just sounded odd.

d112crzy

If your crank and clearances are in good shape, 8k rpm will be no problem. I'd try some h22 injectors or some rdx ones.

But either get a custom header or that Bisi header. Anything else WILL hold you back.

PyroProblem

Your builder sounds good so far to me!
I dont know for sure if stock injectors will max out or not, but I would imagine with a big engine and those parts in the head, stock ones will be struggling to keep up...

Another question for ya. Why AEM? Is it the gen 1 or 2 version? (silver or black?)

GhostAccord

Ask your builder. If he told you he likes to go on the loose side of clearances. I'm sure he would tell you why.

If you go with looser bearing clearances the "planned" high volume oil pump would help keep up the oil pressure.

d112crzy

The volume is there already, its pressure he needs. F/H girdles are very restricting.

bigsnorlax

I checked in with him. He told me i misunderstood about the bearings... When he said he likes to maintain the minimum clearances on the bottom end, i was THINKING by minimum he meant looser, he explained he maintains the tightest bearing clearances he can on crank and rod bearings for longer life, better piston sealing, and to maintain oil pressure within in the bearings.

A tad over my head, something about less windage loss... but it sounded good to me :D.

And why AEM? Cus my friend said he'd sell me his for $100. Which sounded doggone good to me, and its silver? Should i be worried about this? I admit i know nothing about tuning :D. But of the tuners i called in the area that have dynos (atleast the ones with websites..) said they do AEM or hondata software. No mention of chrome, or anything like that, but i also did not ask about chrome or the other online software.

Should i be worried about starving the bearings of oil? You mentioned how F/H girdles are restrictive. I was under the assumption they were there to stabilize the bottom end.

PyroProblem

Its just that AEM is more race car oriented. Not to say it wont work with a street car, its just a little more "hardcore" than whats needed for a street car.
As long as your local tuners are good with it (and its little quirks), then go for it! I had issues with mine. Went with Neptune and havent looked back since!
The silver ones were the first version. The blacks were the 2nd improved version.

Anyways, good luck with the build!

GhostAccord

I always assumed that the higher volume/flow oil pumps also came with a pressure relief valve spring that was rated higher than stock. If they aren't, then they are a complete waste of money. A higher volume pump with the stock oil pressure relief spring would only result in more bypass oil going directly back into the sump. It would also add more unnecessary heat to the oil.

d112crzy

I've compared the springs of an OEM pump vs an old Toda HV pump I had. They were the same thing.

OP, oil flows through the girdle on H/F motors. I'd be weary of revving that thing out with tight clearance.

GhostAccord

Full synth 0w20....