B20vtec timing
10-15-2007, 08:35 PM
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B20vtec timing
I did search, but i could not find anyone with this particular problem.
setup is as follows:
B20Z block
12.5:1 84.5mm CP pistons
JE rods
stock crank
ARP rod studs, bearings, and head studs
PR3 head
AEM fuel rail / regulator
MSD 370cc injectors
Supertech dished valves
BC Spec V cams
BC valvetrain
stock ignition
P73 manifold
P30 tb
P28 ecu w/ CromePro
I recently recieved my head back from the machine shop with my new Supertech valves installed with Viton stem seals. Bought a new timing belt, put it on along with a new water pump, front main seal and cam seals.
I'm having the weirdest problem however, when my car is cold (overnight, or bringing it home from work at the end of the day) it runs like a dream. Quick, responsive on the throttle and performs well.
However, after a few minutes of running the engine looses power and bogs down, occasionally stalls itself out. It is responsive at anything over 3200rpm when it gets like this, but gets worse the longer i drive it. Noticing how this issue seems to correspond in relation to the engine temp. I'm assuming it most likely has something to do with the ignition system. (the ECU retards ignition timing as the engine warms up if I"m correct)
- I made 100% sure that the timing is dead on accurate, and the belt has the correct tension on it. And rechecked it (the timing) while on my way home from work today (pulled over in a gas station, busted out the small tool kit i have in my car and went to town.)
- Distributor is in the EXACT same position it was in when i removed it. (marked the location with a scribe before removal)
- Spark plugs are not fouled out, brand new Densos went in this head as well.
- Correct stock fuel pressure (42-45psi)
CEL puts up a code of 23 (VSS, which has been there for a while. Still working on the S2k cluster conversion)
I'm almost at a loss. I do not have a ignition light handy however, so i cannot verify spark is occuring at exactly cylinder TDC once the car is warm.
Ideas?
-jonathan
setup is as follows:
B20Z block
12.5:1 84.5mm CP pistons
JE rods
stock crank
ARP rod studs, bearings, and head studs
PR3 head
AEM fuel rail / regulator
MSD 370cc injectors
Supertech dished valves
BC Spec V cams
BC valvetrain
stock ignition
P73 manifold
P30 tb
P28 ecu w/ CromePro
I recently recieved my head back from the machine shop with my new Supertech valves installed with Viton stem seals. Bought a new timing belt, put it on along with a new water pump, front main seal and cam seals.
I'm having the weirdest problem however, when my car is cold (overnight, or bringing it home from work at the end of the day) it runs like a dream. Quick, responsive on the throttle and performs well.
However, after a few minutes of running the engine looses power and bogs down, occasionally stalls itself out. It is responsive at anything over 3200rpm when it gets like this, but gets worse the longer i drive it. Noticing how this issue seems to correspond in relation to the engine temp. I'm assuming it most likely has something to do with the ignition system. (the ECU retards ignition timing as the engine warms up if I"m correct)
- I made 100% sure that the timing is dead on accurate, and the belt has the correct tension on it. And rechecked it (the timing) while on my way home from work today (pulled over in a gas station, busted out the small tool kit i have in my car and went to town.)
- Distributor is in the EXACT same position it was in when i removed it. (marked the location with a scribe before removal)
- Spark plugs are not fouled out, brand new Densos went in this head as well.
- Correct stock fuel pressure (42-45psi)
CEL puts up a code of 23 (VSS, which has been there for a while. Still working on the S2k cluster conversion)
I'm almost at a loss. I do not have a ignition light handy however, so i cannot verify spark is occuring at exactly cylinder TDC once the car is warm.
Ideas?
-jonathan
10-16-2007, 10:10 AM
#3
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Re: B20vtec timing (Db1_77)
Recheck the tune on a dyno. Oxygen sensor may be going bad, or some other issue.
Or you could throw darts at a board with a list of possible problems.
Or you could throw darts at a board with a list of possible problems.
10-17-2007, 02:24 PM
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I have set up an appointment for the car to be re-tuned next week.
The O2 sensor is only a month old, however i checked the connections and found that the signal wire was starting to come loose. (I'll blame the shady splicing on A.D.D.) the problem got a little better after the fix
- however there is still the noticeable loss of power once the car warms. Although at least it holds an idle now.
And yes, the timing marks are pefect, crank lines up with the block, cams line up with each other.
thanks for the help so far guys
-jonathan
The O2 sensor is only a month old, however i checked the connections and found that the signal wire was starting to come loose. (I'll blame the shady splicing on A.D.D.) the problem got a little better after the fix
- however there is still the noticeable loss of power once the car warms. Although at least it holds an idle now.
And yes, the timing marks are pefect, crank lines up with the block, cams line up with each other.
thanks for the help so far guys
-jonathan
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