Mr.Burner

$1780 is a way cheap price to get a motor put together with machine work if you DID indeed have machine work done.

All those nice parts stuffed in a used block wouldnt be such a good idea...

Wheres our original poster?? haha

peter_b16

u mean "didnt"??lol..u needa read my post again since u seem to missed a few details..no machine work done what so ever..no resurfacing..no balancing(which i shouldve done at the very least but F it)..no milling..no leak..no knock(according to knock sensor)..NO SMOKE!!..and which block hasnt been used in its life time..my b20z2 block came out a 83xxx 2000 crv..if u dont believe in the build, i dont blame ya..not many do..thnx..

JeffBro

"no knock" - What type of knock sensor are you using?

peter_b16

Not sure..its from My buddies turbo miata..we hooked it up on the top alternator bracket..Idk how efficient that is but seems to show no knock at idle..i can't say the same for actual driving load cuz the light for knock notification is hooked up inside his car and i didn't want him to pull it out..

peter_b16

Sorry..i lied on the build..haha..went back to look at My lil build thread on Facebook..the piston/rod combo actually cost me $300..LMAO..it was cheaper than i thought..now peoples never gonna believe me..

jas0rDC5

around $3000?

BigDare23

Yep

Used a cheap water pump at first and it broke. Replace it with a OEM honda one, reset the timing, and been driving it every since. Out of two+ years my car has been down twice (for about a combine time of a week) because of faulty ebay parts. Lessons learned and now I rock OEM or high quality aftermarket parts.

My stupidity with purchases still doesn't negate the my motor is stout and has 215+psi across the board.

ptftw

spent nearly 5000$... pro3 cams,supertech valvetrain,victor x, bisi replica header, itr rep pistons,shotpeen rods,acl bearing, ctr crank pulley,gates timing belt, 70mm tb, stock port itr head,gaskets,tune...made 220whp, stock port head...

selling b20z bottom end if ur interested. 84mm itr rep pistons,shotpeen rods, rod bolts,
acl race bearings, itr water pump, ctr crank pulley, gates blue timing belt, moroso aluminum oil pan, 10k miles, selling for 500$

PyroProblem

Nikos, do you still have those vids from a ways back of your n/a 280+ whp EG smoking that evo and topping out at like 160+ mph?

It was on a highway in "canada" I believe.

That video alone made me wanna convert to a K24.

negusjuda

At 215 psi what compression are you at is that stock bottom end and what tester did you use I'm asking because I'm trying to get a ballpark figure of what compression I'm at. On my new craftsman tester I'm getting 235-240 across but when I use a older snap on tester at school I get 185 across. I also got 240 across on a harbor freight tester so I'm a lil lost as to what compression I'm at lol. I think the snap on either reads low or it's broke. my pistons are rated 10.5:1 with a b16 head, im running a gsr head thats been milled about 12 thousandts. when i punched the numbers in the zeal calculator it came up to 11.0:1 compression and 185 surly isnt 11:1

PyroProblem

There really is no accurate way to relate compression test psi and actual static compression ratio.

Too many factors, like camshaft lift, duration, valvelash, battery voltage, ring gap/condition and probably even piston to wall clearance. Different compression testers also can make a difference.

negusjuda

got ya i was hoping im at 11:1 thats kinda what i built the motor to be at, judging from the zeal calculator i should be right about there

Daniel Preston

[QUOTE= But guys just have love for the b series and thats that.[/QUOTE]

Well said

blackeg

plus the parts availability. i have over 10 years of b series parts ive collected just laying around. with just some rings and bearings i could easily make 3 or 4 motors from my shed and porch.

my lsvtec i had last year cost me just shy of 2000, but almost 1/3 of that was machine shop costs. if you arent in a rush and know what you are looking at you can clean house on craigslist. just go look at the parts thoroughly in person before you pay up

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

About 500 bucks for a bottle set up

93egSLEEPER

LOL

The "K-hype" unfolded. Awesome for race, no doubt. "Baller" for the street and unnecessary for most, they just wanna say "it's a k". Not to mention 80% of them are hack jobs.

I look at it this way, I'm a domestic guy at heart as well. B-series=small block. K-series=big block. Unless you REALLY need all the advantages of a "bigger motor" aka competitive racing, why not build a fun motor for the same price and have some nice options, not to mention more power.

B20V's today can be a 12sec build for 2500 easy. Cheap reliable and quick daily.
K20's, 12 sec as well, BUT add another G to the price tag at least. More like 1500-2k if you really do it right. Hell budget 1200 for k-pro and a tune alone. chipped and tuned P28 for the B? $350. Sorry, I'm done w/ my mini-rant. Just don't know why everyone sucks a K off for a DD street car.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

^^

I agree.

If someone is racing the car whether it be street/strip/course then sure. but for putting around town and the occasional WOT, then the tried and true B isnt to bad.

Ive heard the price of a K swap has come down, but last time i checked, a turn key K swap was pushing 9 grand.

I will say I have access to a K24 and have thought about it, but I like my B20 as it meets my intentions.

If I want another 100whp then Ill get a kit and spray it for 500 bucks.


(not to mention some K series transmissions are garbage)

93egSLEEPER

The K trannys are SO fragile, at least that has been my impression. A lot of guys who drive them hard break things or grind in all the gears in my area.
The prices have come down, but to have 200whp (stock k20 basically) its still a 3500-4k swap, no to mention all the hassle of the throttle and shifter conversion and all that BS. B20v or H2B can be had for 2500 and compete very well. Throw 1k into either motor and you will walk all over a stock k swap. More potential, but still more money.
Anyways should probably stay on topic, just the beginning of this thread really peeved me. All those 15k+ builds being compared to the run of the mill B20V street build. 1% of HT users will ever even sniff the gas those motors build, let alone build a motor like that.

Brian Ellis

how much horsepower are you getting

2LEM1

iTrader: (1)

A built 2.4 liter B series will make the same power as a built 2.4 K series, which will make the same power as a built 2.4 liter H series. Once the head is ported, and the compression is raised, and you're running large cams, there's no real difference in the Honda motors.

The real advantage of the K motors is that they respond tremendously well to bolt ons, having a 220whp internally stock K series is normal, having a B series make 220wp will require quite a bit more work.

That, and you get a 6 speed.

diandre davis

hey have been reading forums for a while now,but this is my first question on here. I'm interested by the numbers u got n I ha e a 99si couple that I bought with b20z2. I really wanna make it stronger to handle vtec or boost. If anyone else can help thanks but I rather hear from who made the numbers. I just really wanna know what I have to do so the thing doesn't blow up on me? Thanks man

jryKC

Haha, I agree. It especially breaks my heart when I see an Si, GSR, or Type-R with a K-swap. To each their own though.

KiNGDEE206

iTrader: (1)

I'm still in process of mine. But if you're willing to be patient. You can get great deals

b16 head complete $400
sk2pro2 $140 (guy didn't no what he had) good condition
golden eagle cam gears used $40
supertech used valve springs and retainers $120

b20 complete block dissembles $100
ycp pistons $100
Arp rod bolts plus acl std bearing kit $50
machining and assembly for short block 350-400. (I think balancing is included forgot to ask. Haven't sent to machine yet
hondata s300 v1 $200 working order

gates tb wp 85 amazon
oem oil pump $120

Tune $350

Im in it 2500 give or take by time I'm done. I'm only aiming 210/145 tq
and I follow this thread.

https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/video-post/699128-all-motor-11-sec-b-serious-cheap-build.html

i want to point out. K series is the way to go once it's cheap enough
stock k20a2 puts out 200/140 area whp
bolt ons 220-240/140-160tq
i just can't justify spending 600/800 on cams for it

im waiting till the k24 have arp rod bolts
and when the k20a2 have $200-350 used great cams bc rn even used cams 400-600 new cams 700-1000 which I cannot justify
ill do basic k24/k20 na built when it's time. Push out 250-270whp/170-200tq

stock k20/k24a2 makes 230-250/170-190 tq. Runs 11.9-12.9 depending on driver
basic b20v usually runs 12-13 depending on driver. Or if you great driver you can run 11.9 like the driver in the link I posted above

Jdm90hondacrx

So far i have my b20 long block ($450) that eventually spun rod bearings, some bnib but second hand eagle rods and nippon high comp 84mm pistons for $300, rebuild kit im looking at is like $250 and im not sure how much my machine shop is gonna charge me to put my ferrea valves in my gsr head. And i got away with a ls crank for $50 so hopefuly it will be right around $1500 total. Considering I traded for alot of the other stuff such as the golden eagle lsv kit and my car already has the gsr in it it will be cheap compared to some of these other builds listed.