spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Playing around with the new manifold and my old P75 head, formulating a plan of attack. Don't judge my messy workbench, it's suffering from too many projects/not enough time for any of them!




The issue that we're all aware of:



I think that first, I'm going to fill in the corner of the coolant passage with weld so that I can use make a new stud hole, the area marked in red (just realized I marked up the wrong corner, but you get the idea):



Then, remove the fitting, mill this whole area flat, lop of the extra area somewhere along the red line, and drill the new hole. Then, check the flange side to make sure it's nice and flat and dust a thou or two off if necessary.



Plug the EGR port, add the coolant hose barb, and done. Hopefully it will look pretty decent and won't even be noticeable to the untrained eye. Also, I really hope that middle hex plug (to replace with a stud) comes out of the P8R easier than it did on the P75. I ended up having to easy out that bitch :/

What size fittings did you guys end up using for the coolant and EGR holes? The coolant one is 17mm/.670", so I'm thinking about doing a 5/8" barb with a 1/2" NPT thread (requires a .703" drill, so perfect). The EGR hole is just under 12mm, so I'm sure I can find something in the area of 1/2" to tap and thread in there.

blackeg

torch that plug from the outside until the oil is smoking lol. i had to on mine it comes right out!.

i think your manifold is going to come out much cleaner than what im doing cant wait to see it done.

currently i have the head at a friends house since he has the tig welder.

i opened up the coolant hole to about 3/4 and picked up some aluminum hollow stock from tractor supply. its going to get welded in the port on the head instead of threading in a fitting. it was about cost - the pipe thread tap that size was like 27 dollars and i got like 4 foot of tubing for 8 bucks.

for the egr i tapped it 1/2 - 13. i found some aluminum threaded rod, cut about a 1" length of it and threaded it in just a bit past flush. im going to have my friend just fill in the rest of the hole so it never comes out.


if that fitting that you have under the head in your first picture was aluminum i just would have had that welded and game over. too bad they are steel, and the damn threads are some fine pitch nonsense good luck finding a tap...

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man. Sounds like we're pretty much on the same page.

Trying to keep it all reversible if possible on the head side. I also don't want to weld on it, especially in the car. The manifold, F'it. The thing did clean up really well with some Simple Green and pressure washer though, original home was in California and I'm always jealous of how nice aluminum stays out there.

I put the torch on that plug a bit today, it seems like it's in there pretty good. I may give it another go. Thought about brazing it into the port on the head, but I think I'd rather tap it.

The fitting on the bench there is the heater fitting off the side of the head. That would actually work perfectly, but it's an M20x1.0 thread and a tap for that is $30-$40 to, so I may as well buy a $25 fitting and use a 1/2" NPT tap that I already have.

I'll get a 1/2"-whatever (depends on what taps I have) plug and thread it in to the EGR port and blend flush if needed.

blackeg

ahh i didnt know you were doing it with a head on the motor already i was thinking it was the head on your bench. yeah good call i wouldnt want to weld on it with it in there for various reasons.

if you already have a 1/2 npt tap i would use it no questions.
this is going to match up with the 403's you picked up correct? what throttle body? since the plenums are a bit smaller i bet you could go a bit bigger toward 70mm.
also im optimistic that this will get rid of that damn dip in tq/power at around 3800 rpm that nonvtecs have. my b20 has it bad with p75 im and tb. it was also the only place i could get the knocksense to flicker so i pulled the timing back and didnt start to ramp it up until 4300 the next column.

for perspective im jealous of florida aluminum and cars. you should see what years of new york winters do its ugly.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Ordered some fittings and stuff, hopefully going to hit the mill this weekend.

It dawned on me that I can actually re-use that Hondata gasket now, it had failed around the coolant port but I'll be trimming that area away anyways.

Incidentally, I think I prefer OE IM gaskets with OBD1/2 injectors but I'm willing to give this one a second chance now that I'm running EV14s that atomize better and are actually aimed straight down the port.

Might send a spare TB up the street to Maxbore. Then again, might have to sell this bucket shortly, I'm flying out to Cali for a job interview next weekend!

blackeg

knock'em dead dude

Frankacura

Dont forget
the non Vtec head have a step higher where you have the bolt in oil passage
On Vtec intake it will balance steped from the middle
as i remove the oil bolt i have to shave the floor 2mm at this area
Juste sit the intake without gasket and you will see
you can also modify the intake side by making a simple notch hole around the stud hole

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Thanks I'll take a look, I did not notice that. Now I wish the head was off, I could just knock it down to the same height on the mill

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man! This is, by far, the biggest one of my life.

blackeg

yea frank you are totally right. I was wondering why the manifold wasnt seating flush till I found that. I notched it on the head side of the flange with the dremel its good to go

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

So, a couple of things...

That plug goes all the way through to the head bolt galley, so for make sure that if you decide to tap it with the head on that you're real careful about getting anything in there.

Secondly, I got the job at HPD in Cali and I can't take my sedan with me, so sadly I won't be continuing this project.

Cams and manifold will go in my FS thread, but I thought I'd give you guys first bite at them. PM me if interested so this doesn't turn into a for sale post.

aeros

iTrader: (1)

Finally got my b20 build together and started right up! I'm going to get it tune this weekend ��
Here are the specs

B20 84mm
Ycp piston
Untouch p8r head with 403 and crower valvetrain
Arp rod bolt and headstud
Skunk2 manifold with 70mm tb
Hytech narrow header with test pipe to buddy club spec 2 exhaust
3" goautoworks CAI

Aiming for 165hp and 140tq

Idling: www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBHzcqXjfx4

blackeg

very solid and attainable goals for your setup. not sure if i'd use that big of a TB or that header on a nonvtec but i doubt it will negatively impact the final peak numbers. a b16 trans on that and it will rip

aeros

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input :-) I have a ctr trans that ill be using from my old ctr swap

solorex

Shouldn't be a problem. If you scroll back through this thread you will see that I achieved 178hp and 150tq with Crower 403's and a stock head (not a P8R) and stock B18b intake manifold.

m4xwellmurd3r

I went to the strip again a couple months back and forgot to post my slip. time was worse cause I couldn't get a decent launch. finding the sweet spot is tough but I think 20psi on my dz102s and launching at 4k will be golden. every time I bumped my launch from 3.4, 3.6, and 3.8 I was having consistent 60ft time drops. best time was a 15.70 (0.10 slower than last time) but my mph went up to 88.8. based off my weight my cars making around 150whp! on a bone stock head!

I have to shift earlier. I know I make peak torque around 4500rpm so I should be shifting closer to 6800rpm instead of 7000.

next time I go to the track I hope I can break a 15.50.

I really wanna rebuild my ported head. I have one deadly solid bottom end. maybe I'll get frisky and throw a single layer gasket and bump the compression to 11.3:1 and clay the engine while its in the car

JDM_JNKY

iTrader: (4)

Hats off to the OGs and knowledge going around in here. I referenced this thread many times as my security blanket building my setup. Finally up and on the ground, I was able to dyno tune my setup yesterday at Import Auto Pros, Westminister, CA. I've never been a fan of the LS/B20, I was looking for a budget engine just to scoot around town in, but after yesterday I'm diggin it.

B18a1 Block
Pr3 81.5
Arp rod bolts

P75 head mild port
B16 inners
BC0022

Stock mild port IM
Stock TB
comptech intake

Cls v1 tri y
2.5" piping
Greddy DT muffler

Made 176whp & 142 TQ

JDM_JNKY

iTrader: (4)

Anyone selling a LS/B20 Skunk2 IM?

JDM_JNKY

iTrader: (4)

I was able to source a Gen 1 S2 IM, and purchased a 68mm professional Prod. TB, new dyno numbers coming soon! I'll also try to get a E85 and pump gas map.

Port Matched Gaskets & TB, cleaned up runners a bit as well.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Nice!

JDM_JNKY

iTrader: (4)

Thank you and I hope it stays nice. I'll be experimenting w/ a 3" intake, the comptech was sold to a friend. I hope it all works out positively.

JDM_JNKY

iTrader: (4)

All assembled, ready to go, new specs after dyno.

slowDB7

Looks pretty good, doesnt look like the oem valve cover

JDM_JNKY

iTrader: (4)

It's not. It's a moroso valve cover.

JDM_JNKY

iTrader: (4)

Using my old graph I did my best to show the comparison of my old ( transparent red & blue ) vs new setup ( dark red & blue ). Same engine, different chassis. Months apart. I wish I would have scanned the first one way back then.


Originals
New setup - Cams degreed +1.5int -1ext baseline pull was again, 165whp

B18a1 Block
Pr3 82mm
Arp rod bolts

P75 head mild port
B16 inners
BC0022

S2 Gen1 mild port IM TB port matched
68mm TB
3.5 - 3" Taper CAI

Cls v1 tri y
2.5" piping
Greddy DT muffler

Made 169whp & 131 TQ


DYNO VID New setup