A List of Cheap Upgrades for the EP3.
11-18-2003, 06:28 PM
#1
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A List of Cheap Upgrades for the EP3.
From my experiences, these mods, IMO, will make the EP3 a lot better than the way it arrives from the showroom. This is from a perspective that is aimed at making the EP3 a well-rounded daily driver.
1) Front Brake Pads. ~$50. For those of you who say that the brakes on the EP3 are horrible, you are right if you're talking about them bone stock. However, add a set of good front brake pads, and stopping is like night and day. I used Axxis Ultimates and they are a fantastic street and autox pad. If you are doing an HPDE, choose a little different pad compound, but your results will still be the same--the EP3 can and will stop great without spending $800 on a overpriced rotor/caliper upgrade. Trust me on this.
BTW--front brake pads = 99-00 Si; rear pads = 97-01 Type R.
2) Air Intakes. These can be had off of ebay for about $40 or you can customize your oem airbox per Hondata (http://www.hondata.com/kseriesairboxmod.html). However, you're crazy to use the cheapo filter that comes on the ebay intakes. Spend the extra $30 and get a good K&N filter. This will add some top-end HP over the stock box and you'll be able to hear your engine.
3) Exhaust. Replace the oem B-pipe and be done with it. This is the most restrictive part of the exhaust. The oem muffler flows surprisingly well and taking it off adds little to no HP if you did a 2.25" b-pipe. Make the b-pipe without a resonator and the oem muffler will sound pretty nice. Most muffler shops charge around $100, but yours will vary.
4) Springs. ~$200. If you don't have the money for a full-bodied coilover set, or if you just want better looks, add a set of lowering springs on the stock shocks. This is important though--make sure the springs are *specifically* for the EP3. Some companies just re-label their 01+ Civic springs. This will lower your car, but the springrates will be less than what came off the car. Good for ride, bad for handling. But don't think this will make a good competition suspension system, as the new EP3 chassis really needs a good set of true coilovers.
5) Swaybars. Replace the rear swaybar (15mm) with the RSX rear swaybar (19mm) for a cheap upgrade. Makes the car flatter in the corners. ~$60 from the dealer, but don;t quote me on that. You need the bar and the 19mm RSX bushings (2). That's it.
6) Wheels. OEM 15x6" wheels are 20lbs. The many flavors of Rotas and such are a half inch wider (6.5") and they are anywhere from 5-8 lbs less weight. This alone will net you faster acceleration. This may not be cheap, but it is certainly noticable in terms of performance. ~$400
7) Shiftknob. ~$40. Forget about the short shifter until you try another shiftknob on the oem shifter. By just replacing your oem **** with one that is shorter and screws further down on the shaft, you'll get a shorter throw while keeping the original geometry.
8) Hondata flash. ~$600. Ok, while not cheap--this is certainly one of the first "next-level" mods someone should make. This is a great mod for street or track, period. The EP3 benefits greatly from the tweaked cam timing and also the higher redline. It makes the cra so much more fun to drive, either in a stock configuration or slightly modded.
I'm sure a few of you might add some more suggestions, but if I wanted to increase the fun level of the EP3 and keep it a nice and civil daily driver, this is what I would recommend. Note that I didn't include a header, tires, cold air intake, etc because while these make power, I think there are other mods you should do first unless your goal is different (and they don't fall under cheap). And I'm not a believer in NOS as you're only fast if you have a full bottle and it's a drag-only mod. And a kit and bottle fill will be as much or more than a Hondata flash.
1) Front Brake Pads. ~$50. For those of you who say that the brakes on the EP3 are horrible, you are right if you're talking about them bone stock. However, add a set of good front brake pads, and stopping is like night and day. I used Axxis Ultimates and they are a fantastic street and autox pad. If you are doing an HPDE, choose a little different pad compound, but your results will still be the same--the EP3 can and will stop great without spending $800 on a overpriced rotor/caliper upgrade. Trust me on this.
BTW--front brake pads = 99-00 Si; rear pads = 97-01 Type R.
2) Air Intakes. These can be had off of ebay for about $40 or you can customize your oem airbox per Hondata (http://www.hondata.com/kseriesairboxmod.html). However, you're crazy to use the cheapo filter that comes on the ebay intakes. Spend the extra $30 and get a good K&N filter. This will add some top-end HP over the stock box and you'll be able to hear your engine.
3) Exhaust. Replace the oem B-pipe and be done with it. This is the most restrictive part of the exhaust. The oem muffler flows surprisingly well and taking it off adds little to no HP if you did a 2.25" b-pipe. Make the b-pipe without a resonator and the oem muffler will sound pretty nice. Most muffler shops charge around $100, but yours will vary.
4) Springs. ~$200. If you don't have the money for a full-bodied coilover set, or if you just want better looks, add a set of lowering springs on the stock shocks. This is important though--make sure the springs are *specifically* for the EP3. Some companies just re-label their 01+ Civic springs. This will lower your car, but the springrates will be less than what came off the car. Good for ride, bad for handling. But don't think this will make a good competition suspension system, as the new EP3 chassis really needs a good set of true coilovers.
5) Swaybars. Replace the rear swaybar (15mm) with the RSX rear swaybar (19mm) for a cheap upgrade. Makes the car flatter in the corners. ~$60 from the dealer, but don;t quote me on that. You need the bar and the 19mm RSX bushings (2). That's it.
6) Wheels. OEM 15x6" wheels are 20lbs. The many flavors of Rotas and such are a half inch wider (6.5") and they are anywhere from 5-8 lbs less weight. This alone will net you faster acceleration. This may not be cheap, but it is certainly noticable in terms of performance. ~$400
7) Shiftknob. ~$40. Forget about the short shifter until you try another shiftknob on the oem shifter. By just replacing your oem **** with one that is shorter and screws further down on the shaft, you'll get a shorter throw while keeping the original geometry.
8) Hondata flash. ~$600. Ok, while not cheap--this is certainly one of the first "next-level" mods someone should make. This is a great mod for street or track, period. The EP3 benefits greatly from the tweaked cam timing and also the higher redline. It makes the cra so much more fun to drive, either in a stock configuration or slightly modded.
I'm sure a few of you might add some more suggestions, but if I wanted to increase the fun level of the EP3 and keep it a nice and civil daily driver, this is what I would recommend. Note that I didn't include a header, tires, cold air intake, etc because while these make power, I think there are other mods you should do first unless your goal is different (and they don't fall under cheap). And I'm not a believer in NOS as you're only fast if you have a full bottle and it's a drag-only mod. And a kit and bottle fill will be as much or more than a Hondata flash.
11-18-2003, 07:25 PM
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Great post, as always, Todd.
Question, though, why not tires over wheels?
Wouldn't a set of better tires make more of a
difference than just lighter wheels?
Question, though, why not tires over wheels?
Wouldn't a set of better tires make more of a
difference than just lighter wheels?
11-18-2003, 07:36 PM
#3
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what? no mention of front camber bolts? shame on you, they top the list of bang for the buck mods that I have on the site that I moderate.
also motor mount inserts are in my top 5.
also motor mount inserts are in my top 5.
11-18-2003, 07:41 PM
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Re: A List of Cheap Upgrades for the EP3. (Todd00)
Todd --
Would you reccommend a specific set of springs for the Si?
I'm kind of in that situation now...
Good advice by the way -- much appreciated.
Thanks!
----->M
Would you reccommend a specific set of springs for the Si?
I'm kind of in that situation now...
Good advice by the way -- much appreciated.
Thanks!
----->M
11-18-2003, 07:46 PM
#5
I said I don't want a title!
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Re: (chunky)
I was gonna add camber bolts, but I've heard a lot of people having issues with them slipping, even when torqued over the recommended specs. Plus, for a daily driver, a lot of camber up front isn't really an issue.
Tires are a good upgrade, but a nice set is around $400. And you're still stuck with the boat-anchor oem wheels. The oem wheels look nice, but I hate the weight of them. It's a call the driver will need to make, but for daily driving the oem tires aren't too bad. They are grippy enough to have fun on the roads at a reasonable speed.
Tires are a good upgrade, but a nice set is around $400. And you're still stuck with the boat-anchor oem wheels. The oem wheels look nice, but I hate the weight of them. It's a call the driver will need to make, but for daily driving the oem tires aren't too bad. They are grippy enough to have fun on the roads at a reasonable speed.
11-18-2003, 07:51 PM
#6
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Re: A List of Cheap Upgrades for the EP3. (Si-Sissy-PA)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si-Sissy-PA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Todd --
Would you reccommend a specific set of springs for the Si?
----->M</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have the H&R Sports and I like the way they lower the car and handle, but I'm still chasing a noise problem on the front passenger side strut. I don't know if this is my install, the springs or the strut itself (or a combo of all three). I have heard other good reports with these springs and others like them, but the main thing to look for, as I said, is that they are EP3 engineered specific.
Would you reccommend a specific set of springs for the Si?
----->M</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have the H&R Sports and I like the way they lower the car and handle, but I'm still chasing a noise problem on the front passenger side strut. I don't know if this is my install, the springs or the strut itself (or a combo of all three). I have heard other good reports with these springs and others like them, but the main thing to look for, as I said, is that they are EP3 engineered specific.
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11-18-2003, 08:31 PM
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Re: (johnkimble)
Todd, how difficult is the brake pad install? I am contemplating doing this but am afraid with my little mechanical know-how that it will be a disaster. I have a factory service manual btw.
11-18-2003, 08:40 PM
#9
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Re: (anjapower)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anjapower »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Todd, how difficult is the brake pad install? I am contemplating doing this but am afraid with my little mechanical know-how that it will be a disaster. I have a factory service manual btw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not difficult at all. Remove the lower bolt on the bottom of the Caliper (12 or 14mm, can't remember) and flip up the inner caliper assembly. Take out old pads, put in new ones. Couldn't be easier.
Not difficult at all. Remove the lower bolt on the bottom of the Caliper (12 or 14mm, can't remember) and flip up the inner caliper assembly. Take out old pads, put in new ones. Couldn't be easier.
11-18-2003, 11:49 PM
#12
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Re: (vpforeva)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vpforeva »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you might have to use a bleeder wrench and crack open the bleeder screw to push back in the caliper piston if you cant put it over the new pads</TD></TR></TABLE>
That will work, but usually I just use a C-clamp to push the piston back in slightly.
That will work, but usually I just use a C-clamp to push the piston back in slightly.
11-19-2003, 04:42 AM
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Re: (Todd00)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but for daily driving the oem tires aren't too bad. They are grippy enough to have fun on the roads at a reasonable speed.</TD></TR></TABLE>hmm i might have to disagree. my tires slip and slid all over the place. and when it is wet.....i feel like i am on ski's
but for daily driving the oem tires aren't too bad. They are grippy enough to have fun on the roads at a reasonable speed.</TD></TR></TABLE>hmm i might have to disagree. my tires slip and slid all over the place. and when it is wet.....i feel like i am on ski's
11-19-2003, 06:11 AM
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Re: (Todd00)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That will work, but usually I just use a C-clamp to push the piston back in slightly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I use to push the piston back. It's about a 15 minute install on the front. Very easy to install.
As for brake pads I would also recommend the Axxis Ultimates. I am currently running these on my rear brakes on my RSX-S. Up front I am running the Cobalt Friction GT-Sport. Very nice brake pad and they bit hard. I used these as a daily drive pad and they are amazing, if you don't mind a little squeal from the front under light brake pressure..lol. When I did my brake pads I went ahead and redid the brake lines with steel brake lines from stoptech, and changed the fluid out to ATE super blue. I am currently trying to prep my car for the track. Well Good luck guys.
That will work, but usually I just use a C-clamp to push the piston back in slightly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I use to push the piston back. It's about a 15 minute install on the front. Very easy to install.
As for brake pads I would also recommend the Axxis Ultimates. I am currently running these on my rear brakes on my RSX-S. Up front I am running the Cobalt Friction GT-Sport. Very nice brake pad and they bit hard. I used these as a daily drive pad and they are amazing, if you don't mind a little squeal from the front under light brake pressure..lol. When I did my brake pads I went ahead and redid the brake lines with steel brake lines from stoptech, and changed the fluid out to ATE super blue. I am currently trying to prep my car for the track. Well Good luck guys.
11-19-2003, 06:35 AM
#15
Re: (f1nal zeros)
Great post Todd00. The EPs Ive driven with suspension and Hondata mods are all dramatically enhanced from the stock form. Yes, you do have to torque the heck out of the honda camber bolts, and when you do buy them (about $11 for the pair, and you can use two pairs for extra camber) get a spare set ot nuts to go with them in case you strip them.
11-19-2003, 12:40 PM
#19
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Re: (Todd00)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was gonna add camber bolts, but I've heard a lot of people having issues with them slipping, even when torqued over the recommended specs. Plus, for a daily driver, a lot of camber up front isn't really an issue.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dunno, for a daily driver, adding some camber up front can make a world of difference in the turns, espcially in conjunction with a rear sway bar.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dunno, for a daily driver, adding some camber up front can make a world of difference in the turns, espcially in conjunction with a rear sway bar.
11-19-2003, 12:41 PM
#20
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Re: (Burgh)
Just front brake pads is all I did. The rears are just along for the ride, so there is really no reason to replace them unless you feel that you need something really aggressive back there.
Axxis Ultimates can be found at Carbotech and I think Cobalt stocks them as well, but I am not sure.
They are a little dusty, but otherwise I find them to be quiet and they don't need hardly any heat in them at all to stop well. I'm sure there are equal or maybe better street pads out there, but I've had good luck with the Ultimates.
Axxis Ultimates can be found at Carbotech and I think Cobalt stocks them as well, but I am not sure.
They are a little dusty, but otherwise I find them to be quiet and they don't need hardly any heat in them at all to stop well. I'm sure there are equal or maybe better street pads out there, but I've had good luck with the Ultimates.
11-19-2003, 01:01 PM
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Re: (Todd00)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just front brake pads is all I did. The rears are just along for the ride, so there is really no reason to replace them unless you feel that you need something really aggressive back there.
Axxis Ultimates can be found at Carbotech and I think Cobalt stocks them as well, but I am not sure.
They are a little dusty, but otherwise I find them to be quiet and they don't need hardly any heat in them at all to stop well. I'm sure there are equal or maybe better street pads out there, but I've had good luck with the Ultimates.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cobalt Friction does have the Axxis Ultimates. You order through them and you have the pads in a day or so. Ask for Rusty, at Cobalt Friction real cool guy. And Todd, my GT-Sports turn my white jdms black in 3-4 days. hahaha.
Axxis Ultimates can be found at Carbotech and I think Cobalt stocks them as well, but I am not sure.
They are a little dusty, but otherwise I find them to be quiet and they don't need hardly any heat in them at all to stop well. I'm sure there are equal or maybe better street pads out there, but I've had good luck with the Ultimates.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cobalt Friction does have the Axxis Ultimates. You order through them and you have the pads in a day or so. Ask for Rusty, at Cobalt Friction real cool guy. And Todd, my GT-Sports turn my white jdms black in 3-4 days. hahaha.
11-19-2003, 02:31 PM
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Re: A List of Cheap Upgrades for the EP3. (Todd00)
Question about the Hondata Reflash.
Is the reflash you get different with different levels of mods?
The reflash is permanent right?
Is the reflash you get different with different levels of mods?
The reflash is permanent right?
11-19-2003, 04:58 PM
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Re: (arbo651)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arbo651 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where can i get ahold of a hondata flash?</TD></TR></TABLE>http://www.hondata.com/
Alumnium Shifter bushings are excellent cheap mod too.
Alumnium Shifter bushings are excellent cheap mod too.
