Hugabuga shipped out the window kit faster than I expected, it took 8-10 days from the time I sent the payment to receiving it. But then I let it sit on my kitchen counter for another three weeks while I drove the car and enjoyed it.
Anyways, at the beginning of this week I decided that it was finally time to pull the door panels and knock out everything there at once. I dropped the car off at a very highly reviewed PDR shop here in Austin to have the three door dings and one fender dent fixed since I thought not having door panels might make it easier for them to do the work. Only the fender dent and the passenger door ding were able to be fixed though, the driver side dings were too sharp to do anything about, and they even pointed out the subtle marks left by the previous owners attempts to PDR it as well, so I guess I'll just have to live with them.
Anyways, onto the window regulators. After installing the pulley from the kit and sanding the teflon feet a bit to slide smoothly with my warped slider part, I decided that I wanted more. More pulleys, to be exact. So I went on Amazon and found some nice little sealed bearing pulleys (I paid about $10 for a set of 5 and $7 for hardware at Home Depot) and went to work with the dremel. Here is the result: the first 6 pulley NSX window regulator retrofit that I've seen.
I had to grind away quite a bit of the plastic part at the top so I ran the bolts holding the pulleys on through the backside of the plastic for extra support. I haven't reassembled the motor portion yet but with the cables pulled tight it seems to work perfectly!
After installing the passenger side regulator which I posted above, I had to reinforce it since drilling out the plastic bracket to install the leftmost pulley caused it to flex and creak. It's fixed now but for the driver side I added the topmost pulley since the other one really doesn't have that much stress on it.
And the other parts I need to put the doors back together showed up after a couple of weeks on back order.
I bought a new antenna nut and grommet since my original had been gold plated and I couldn't get the gold out of the dimples.
To remove the factory godzilla jizz sealant that was left over from the original shredded moisture barriers, I scraped as much as I could off with a plastic scraper, then put WD40 on a cloth and rubbed the rest off, then finished off by wiping it down with rubbing alcohol to remove the WD40 residue. It took a while but worked well and didn't damage the paint.
I did some searching to find a way to install the new moisture barriers that would be waterproof, reliable, and removable without too much effort, and the BMW guys use butyl rope to do this. So, I bought 90 feet of 1/8" butyl rope at Lowes for about $6 and went to work. I did the driver side door first and it went on well but I think I put too much tension on the plastic when I installed the speaker box and the door handle so I think I'll order another one and redo it.
Using what I learned on the driver side, the passenger side went on near perfectly.
1) Make sure the door is clean and free of leftover glue/oil/etc.
2) Hold up the moisture barrier and poke the wires through the holes in it, wherever possible make sure the flaps on the back go over the wire harness to keep water from running in.
3) The MB has a hole for the top left and top right door panel screws, put these screws in to loosely hold the MB in place while you install the butyl rope. I find it easiest to apply the rope in 6-8" sections, there is no increased risk of leaking doing this since it mashes together easily if you overlap it a bit.
4) The door shell has small grooves where sealant was applied, lay butyl rope along the top edge of the door in this groove and lightly press the door liner onto it so that it sticks, but can still be easily removed.
5) Install the door handle, central locking box, and speaker box in that order. You do this so the door liner is pulled along the contour of the door panel and won't be stretched out.
6) At this point, around the edges in some places the MB will want to bunch up since you're trying to cover a 3-dimensional surface with a 2-dimensional sheet of plastic. To make these areas seal against the butyl rope, you press the MB into the butyl using your fingernail/dull plastic scraper/etc to create small ridges, this will let you take up the slack in the plastic.
7) After the MB is stuck on all the way around, get a heat gun and set it on low (~250F) and heat up a portion of the plastic on the rope and then press it on with your fingers until it sticks well. You can also make sure there is no tension on the plastic as it is very easy to stretch when heated a bit.
Anyways, with the doors all put together the windows go up and down much faster and smoother than before. Hugabuga's kit is completely worth the cost.
Bonus checks at work went out this month so in addition to paying off a nice little chunk of what I owe on it I think I'll splurge a bit and get the window tint redone with some nice new ceramic film, the nasty purple stuff needs to go.