Chris N

I searched, I found good info. Still, I want more!

Just wondering what pads all you track ITRs are using. (track only, not track-street)
I'm interested in pads only for track use, not to use on the street.
I may do some autox, but primarily these pads would be for track use.

Just looking for some info on what everyone is using, feedback, and some insight as to good track (primary) AND autox (far secondary) pads, fronts and rears.

Thanks to Willard for passing on a wealth of good knowledge about rotors, pads, fluids.

disordeR

Panther P+'s front, stock rear. soon to be P+'s all around...

George H

Portfield R4 on the fronts for street and track.

pyromaster

hawk blues front and hawk hps rear (i use the rear on the street too)

Chris N

To those of you who answered: (and to those that answer after this post)

Would you recommend your setup? Reviews?
How would you compare your setup with stock pads?

Mike M

ditto

Great pads

Chris N

All (front/rear set) $395

How long do these pads last for track and street duty? I was going to say they are awful expensive, but if they are truly an all in one pad, that's not a bad price I suppose.

I've been recommended the following two setups:
panther xp+ fronts
stock rears
(Willard)

and

endless na-s fronts
endless VN9500 rears
(Mike M)

Any thoughts on these setups, or your current setups would be great. I have no problem running stock pads on the street, unless there is a track/street setup that is ok for someone like me (4-6 track events, autox, street). I just have a feeling a street set and a seperate track set would be a good idea.


[Modified by Chris N, 6:17 PM 1/20/2003]

Wai

Chris, for track use, I recommend the Ferodo DS3000. Andie from http://www.cobaltfriction.com carries them.

Here's my review:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=297926

Since you mentioned autox, I would not recommend them because cold bite just isn't too good. But once they are warmed up,

tnd2gen

In the long run its cheaper to have seperate street/ track pads. Especially if your racing track tires, it takes 1 minute to change your pads then your not wasting expensive race pads on the streets. I've used and recommend Hawk black, blue Endless NA-M, CC-X and Projuct U Type HC (my favorite so far).
For the street, anything with no warm up time.
In the end its your foot and your set-up that determines if you like a certain pad.

Wai

This I've heard different. I remember reading an email from the Type R mailing list that Scott Lucas (former WC driver) stated that he preferred using street pads in the rear when he raced. He tried to use track pads in the rear and it locked up too easily.

I think the stock rear is good enough.

StageOne

I am also running the Ferodo DS3000 in the front but Axxis Ultimates in the rear. Braking is awesome without to much drama from the rear. I may later try a higher friction pad on the back, but for now

I've also tried:
HPS: Good for street, not made for the track, faded quickly
Panther +: Good, very minimal fade, but the Ferodo is better.

Wai

The inside rear wheel isn't too hard to lock up when track pads were used, especially if *that suspension setup* tends to lift that wheel at corner entry.

Willard

My choices

OEM (F&R) on the street.

Track use:
Front = Pxp or DS3000
Rear = OE or P+

Good fluid and removal of the front splash will always help.

sackdz

Right now I'm on

Front: Panther XP
Rear: Hawk HPS

Floyd

I started with Panther Pluses in the front and Panthers in the rear, and that worked well, except the panthers ate up my rear rotors.

Next time out, I used Panther XPs all around. I like them a lot. I may try the Ferodos, or one of Andie's special blends next.

I can say that last time I was at Summit (on the XPs), and towards the end of the weekend when I was working on threshold braking into 1, I had that unsettling feeling in the rear. I almost felt as though I needed to use a bit of steering input to keep the end from comming around. That being said, it may have been that I was applying the brakes too abruptly in an attempt to minimize my braking zone.

Hooch'n

good info, nice to see a couple of different set-ups.

Chris

Hawk Blues.

Worthless for Auto X. They only work when Hot.

Chris N

Thanks for the great info everyone. Much appreciated.

One question (and please add your track setups if you haven't!):

I see all these setups are no good for autox. What is recommended there, stock pads or something very close to stock, with good cold bite?

Wai

Ferodo DS3000 front
Endless NA-S rear
Motul 600 brake fluid
Brembo blank rotors
Goodridge SS lines
DON'T FORGET about tires. If you're still running on street tires, aggressive track pads won't do you any good.

Cold bite is what you need because most autox only last for 1 or 2 mins for each run, not enough time to get the brakes up to temp -- same thing goes for the tires. Or another solution is to find a place to do a burnout and couple 60-0 braking before each run.

Chris

Hawk Blue front (with cooling ducts)
Hawk Blue rear
Motul 600 brake fluid
Brembo blank rotors (front... rear is Stock)
Goodridge SS lines
DON'T FORGET about those backing plates (or splash/dust shields) those are also important to remove.

Back in Black

The Porterfield R4S should work well in that situation.

My setup:

Carbotech XP (Front)
Carbotech XP (Rear)
Goodridge SS Lines
Motul RBF600 Fluid
Kumho Ecsta V700 225/45/15 (Shaved)

Wai

I think Ed (Zygspeed) has a pretty good pic of his car doing a 3-wheeler on stock suspension in T2 at Gingerman last year. Anyone has that pic?

Dan

DS3000 front
OEM / Axxis Ultimates rear
Super Blue Fluid
ss Lines

Talk to Andie at Cobalt he is a good source

Big Phat R

OEM rotors
Techno Freno SpA front pads for track - less aggressive pads for street
Porterfield R4S rear pads
SMC SS lines
LHT MC brace <---- very good investment
Motul 600

CoolKat

To Jason Franza

can u IM me or email at tieu112@yahoo.com about my order jason. my IM aint workin for soem reason. thnks