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Old 06-28-2007, 06:06 PM
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Default Starting To Plan out Motor Rebuild

heres the link\

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2028001
Old 06-28-2007, 10:13 PM
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I'm right behind you. I'll keep you updated with what I decide. I'm thinking of ordering everything within 2 weeks or so.
Old 06-28-2007, 11:02 PM
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It all depends on what PSI you're going to run daily. I ran 15psi daily and made 500whp with a similar setup.

As far as cams go, I'd stick with 2000 ITR cams and leave it at that. Keep them degreed at zero. So there is no need to waste money on cam gears. Don't forget to upgrade the valve train. The OEM retainers and springs will be insufficent.

I'm not sure what size turbo you have decided on, but I used a T3/T67 with a .63 A/R. I was at full boost in the mid 4K RPM range. This was more due to the back door setup with the Full-Race kit. Very efficient. Though driving the R, I felt that if my turbo was any bigger, it would be a serious waste of a good transmission as I would have to shift too damn much. The R gears are short enough. For fun, you may want to throw in an LS 4th and 5th gear to make better use of the turbo. You will be making gobs of power.

The clutch looks good. I'd go with an Exedy. I had a stage three clutch with a three puck unsprung disc. Worked fine. No kidney jarring launches and was quite pleasent DD'ing.

That's all I know for now until you post up some other issues. Don't rush the build and prepare to spend lots of money.
Old 06-29-2007, 07:55 AM
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well i want to run at least 18psi daily. im going with a small turbine to keep lag down to a minimal. im still reading up ont eh differences between small and large turbo's and a/r's. im going with a t4 turbo just dont know what one just yet. im only going to run 18psi thats it. witha 2L bottom end will be fine output. Valve train i have already got from my decision to fully biuild the motor. Complete Jun Valve Train with guides. Still looking at valves from ferra.
Old 06-29-2007, 09:30 AM
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get a good radiator
Old 06-29-2007, 10:03 AM
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Why do you want to run 18psi daily? Just asking for more headaches IMO...
Old 06-29-2007, 11:18 AM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cltitus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i want to run at least 18psi daily. im going with a small turbine to keep lag down to a minimal. im still reading up ont eh differences between small and large turbo's and a/r's. im going with a t4 turbo just dont know what one just yet. im only going to run 18psi thats it. witha 2L bottom end will be fine output. Valve train i have already got from my decision to fully biuild the motor. Complete Jun Valve Train with guides. Still looking at valves from ferra.</TD></TR></TABLE>

T4 and small turbo dont belong in the same sentence. dont focus so much on "I wanna run 18psi...." Instead focus on the amount of power you want to make. 18psi on a 16G and 18psi on a T4 are two entirely different things. it sounds like you have quite a bit to research.
Old 06-29-2007, 11:21 AM
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thanks for the info

already got full size alum koyo
Old 06-29-2007, 11:23 AM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cltitus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the info

already got full size alum koyo</TD></TR></TABLE>

a full size is really going to limit your options as far as the exhaust manifold is concerned.
Old 06-29-2007, 04:53 PM
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Default Re: (RTW DC2R)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

T4 and small turbo dont belong in the same sentence. dont focus so much on "I wanna run 18psi...." Instead focus on the amount of power you want to make. 18psi on a 16G and 18psi on a T4 are two entirely different things. it sounds like you have quite a bit to research. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

a full size is really going to limit your options as far as the exhaust manifold is concerned. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Pretty much. I know from personal experience that a full size radiator with a Full-Race equal length manifold will NOT fit. You will need to go with a 1/2 Civic radiator. Another thing to consider is mounting the fan on the opposite side of where it normally goes. Due to the size of the down pipe you will run a risk of melting the fan shroud.
Old 06-30-2007, 01:52 PM
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well if i have to part with radiator ill probably go with a vieston half size civic race radiator. used one before kept it pretty cool. im talking with full race right now on a custom turbo build but im still wondering what i want to hit.

one other thing is i know i have to upgrade the injectors so do i have to get a fpr since i live in california i really dont want to but if i do have to ill have to do some custom stealth install make it look stock so i dont get in to much trouble.

registration wont be to muhc of a hassle since i dont have to pay for it anymore
Old 06-30-2007, 01:57 PM
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Default Re: (JjuuN R)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JjuuN R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you want to run 18psi daily? Just asking for more headaches IMO...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed.

To the OP...do you plan on beating EVOs everyday?
Old 06-30-2007, 02:43 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It all depends on what PSI you're going to run daily. I ran 15psi daily and made 500whp with a similar setup.

As far as cams go, I'd stick with 2000 ITR cams and leave it at that. Keep them degreed at zero. So there is no need to waste money on cam gears. Don't forget to upgrade the valve train. The OEM retainers and springs will be insufficent.

I'm not sure what size turbo you have decided on, but I used a T3/T67 with a .63 A/R. I was at full boost in the mid 4K RPM range. This was more due to the back door setup with the Full-Race kit. Very efficient. Though driving the R, I felt that if my turbo was any bigger, it would be a serious waste of a good transmission as I would have to shift too damn much. The R gears are short enough. For fun, you may want to throw in an LS 4th and 5th gear to make better use of the turbo. You will be making gobs of power.

The clutch looks good. I'd go with an Exedy. I had a stage three clutch with a three puck unsprung disc. Worked fine. No kidney jarring launches and was quite pleasent DD'ing.

That's all I know for now until you post up some other issues. Don't rush the build and prepare to spend lots of money. </TD></TR></TABLE>

1. WRONG!!! PSI has nothing to do with it. PSI doesnt break engines! I always wondered how this mis-information got spread around....

2. WRONG!!! cam gear tuning has shown to provide big gains on a turbo setup!

3. WRONG!!! Stock valve train is fine as long as you keep stock rev limit and stock cams, which have made big power.

4. WRONG AGAIN!!! The itr tranny is fine depending on what kind of driving. Depends on driver habbits.

Im disapointed in the R forum...usually has some great insight

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cltitus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heres the link\

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2028001</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks like you have just researched the most expensive parts you can find. You dont need a twin gate setup for 500whp amoung other things. Keep up the research.
Old 06-30-2007, 04:38 PM
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yes i have changed my mind i just got back with full race im not using twin gate just proam manifold.

most expensive. well i came to the conslusion in life that best things usually cost the most why spend 500 bucks on something thats going to break easy when you can spend 700 on something that want break at all or has 100% money bACK GARNENTEE
Old 06-30-2007, 05:51 PM
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18 psi is alot. I would keep it at 10-12 for daily or even less. Maybe 8-10. Now for special occasions i'd do 15-18
Old 06-30-2007, 06:32 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97CWITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1. WRONG!!! PSI has nothing to do with it. PSI doesnt break engines! I always wondered how this mis-information got spread around....

2. WRONG!!! cam gear tuning has shown to provide big gains on a turbo setup!

3. WRONG!!! Stock valve train is fine as long as you keep stock rev limit and stock cams, which have made big power.

4. WRONG AGAIN!!! The itr tranny is fine depending on what kind of driving. Depends on driver habbits.

Im disapointed in the R forum...usually has some great insight

Looks like you have just researched the most expensive parts you can find. You dont need a twin gate setup for 500whp amoung other things. Keep up the research.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you currently own a turbo charged Type-R? Have you gone through the whole build process and tuning process? How familiar are you with Geoffs Full-Race kits? Simply curious, since you decided to jump down my throat.

1) PSI does matter, and it's all relative pal. It's all an elementary part of the equation of setting up a turbo charged car. It may not be the crucial element, but it is still an element that needs addressing none-the-less.

2) Cam gear tuning does create gains. I'm not a ******* moron. Simmer down. On MY SETUP, which I was referring too, leaving the stock ITR cams at zero, gave the best gains. You respond as if I made a 100% factual statement about ALL cam/gear setups.

3) I say the stock parts are insufficient you say they are not. I base my logic on the amount of heat generated by a turbo setup of that caliber. My EGT gauges were reading 1350-1400 degrees F driving casually, and 1600 degrees F during full boost. Heat tends to wear out parts faster. It is called preventative maintenence to simply install parts that are superior to OEM.

4) How can you say 'wrong again' if you controdict yourself in the next ******* sentence. From my own experience with a setup very similar to what he wants, installed in an f'ing ITR, I say that the transmission is too short. Ever spun tires through all five gears regardless of your tires and added traction components? How about done burn outs by simply pressing on the gas in third, fourth or fifth gear? STFU. Do we need rehash why the ITR tranny mated with a stock B18C5 is superb?

Do you have personal experience with one of Geoffs' kits? How do YOU, PERSONALLY know that a dual waste gate setup is overkill? I sure as **** wished I had it on my Full-Race kit.
Old 06-30-2007, 06:48 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97CWITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1. WRONG!!! PSI has nothing to do with it. PSI doesnt break engines! I always wondered how this mis-information got spread around....

2. WRONG!!! cam gear tuning has shown to provide big gains on a turbo setup!

3. WRONG!!! Stock valve train is fine as long as you keep stock rev limit and stock cams, which have made big power.

4. WRONG AGAIN!!! The itr tranny is fine depending on what kind of driving. Depends on driver habbits.

Im disapointed in the R forum...usually has some great insight</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow you're WRONG!!! more then anyone in this thread. Brandon throw a jumping spider at him, that'll show him some boost.
Old 06-30-2007, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Haleiwa-Brando

Do you currently own a turbo charged Type-R? Have you gone through the whole build process and tuning process? How familiar are you with Geoffs Full-Race kits? Simply curious, since you decided to jump down my throat.

1) PSI does matter, and it's all relative pal. It's all an elementary part of the equation of setting up a turbo charged car. It may not be the crucial element, but it is still an element that needs addressing none-the-less.

2) Cam gear tuning does create gains. I'm not a ******* moron. Simmer down. On MY SETUP, which I was referring too, leaving the stock ITR cams at zero, gave the best gains. You respond as if I made a 100% factual statement about ALL cam/gear setups.

3) I say the stock parts are insufficient you say they are not. I base my logic on the amount of heat generated by a turbo setup of that caliber. My EGT gauges were reading 1350-1400 degrees F driving casually, and 1600 degrees F during full boost. Heat tends to wear out parts faster. It is called preventative maintenence to simply install parts that are superior to OEM.

4) How can you say 'wrong again' if you controdict yourself in the next ******* sentence. From my own experience with a setup very similar to what he wants, installed in an f'ing ITR, I say that the transmission is too short. Ever spun tires through all five gears regardless of your tires and added traction components? How about done burn outs by simply pressing on the gas in third, fourth or fifth gear? STFU. Do we need rehash why the ITR tranny mated with a stock B18C5 is superb?

Do you have personal experience with one of Geoffs' kits? How do YOU, PERSONALLY know that a dual waste gate setup is overkill? I sure as **** wished I had it on my Full-Race kit.
I had a turbo gsr previous to my itr, and am very familiar to the tuning process.

1. You made it seem like it was a lot bigger than "an element." When you said "It all depends on what PSI you're going to run daily." It matters how much whp you run daily. Thanks champ!

2. "Cam gear tuning does create gains" Sounds damn general to me?
Under the dyno graph http://forums.evans-tuning.com...+gear "Cam gear adjustments made a significant power increase (30 ft-lbs, 25 whp)."-JE

http://forums.evans-tuning.com...+gear "Picked up 20-25whp with cam gear adjustments on the stock cams"-JE

http://forums.evans-tuning.com...+gear "With cam gear adjustments and a higher redline, 350whp is achievable."-JE

No gains with cam gear tuning? Interesting...

3) Show me where EGT readings have anything to do with valve train wear?!?!?!
If stock parts are so ineffcient, why are people making big numbers on the stock fuel lines, ignition systems and cams?
By your reasoning those all need to be replaced

"I say the stock parts are insufficient you say they are not. I base my logic on the amount of heat generated by a turbo setup of that caliber"

http://forums.evans-tuning.com...=4554 stock gsr head, cams, tb, IM, valve train 425whp...I'd say thats pretty good for stock parts wouldnt you? Right between his goals of "between 350whp and 500whp" Thats using smaller gsr parts...

Thanks fior spitting your your magical setup, even though yours might me similiar, must we bring up again how 2 engines react differently to the same setup?

"How do YOU, PERSONALLY know that a dual waste gate setup is overkill"
Becasue I research the crap out of the parts I put on my car! Thats why. If you think you NEED 2 gates to control boost on your setup at 350-500whp on a medium sized turbo, you have other issues that u need to figure out.

Im not the only one who thinks 2 gates is over kill:
"Full-Race ProAm T4/44 Dual Gate Manifold unless you plan on getting this used and its a great deal a regular pro-am manifold with single gate will work just fine unless you plan on running a massive turbo at low boost (the twin gates help regulate boost on huge turbo's with low boost, otherwise they are unnecessary)"
-copzter

makes sense to me?

Cait wait to hear you discredit the dyno graphs there champ!


Old 07-01-2007, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 97CWITR

I had a turbo gsr previous to my itr
Sweet. What power did you make? Since we're in the midts of a pissing contest mine made 500whp on 92 octane at 15psi and a smidge over 700whp on C16 at 34psi. Redline: 10K

Originally Posted by 97CWITR
1. You made it seem like it was a lot bigger than "an element." When you said "It all depends on what PSI you're going to run daily." It matters how much whp you run daily. Thanks champ!
Tell me how tuning is not dependent on PSI? I want your opinion. If I had to be more precise I'd have to say that PSI and WHP go hand in hand.

Originally Posted by 97CWITR
2. "Cam gear tuning does create gains" Sounds damn general to me?
Under the dyno graph http://forums.evans-tuning.com...+gear "Cam gear adjustments made a significant power increase (30 ft-lbs, 25 whp)."-JE

http://forums.evans-tuning.com...+gear "Picked up 20-25whp with cam gear adjustments on the stock cams"-JE

http://forums.evans-tuning.com...+gear "With cam gear adjustments and a higher redline, 350whp is achievable."-JE

No gains with cam gear tuning? Interesting...
What are you trying to prove here? I'm not following you. I'm happy those people picked up a few more hp. My setup didn't. Sue me. Keep arguing the point about how my setup didn't make any more hp with cam tuning and I'll show you how much I really don't care. Read below and insert foot into mouth.

Originally Posted by 97CWITR
3) Show me where EGT readings have anything to do with valve train wear?!?!?!
If stock parts are so ineffcient, why are people making big numbers on the stock fuel lines, ignition systems and cams?
By your reasoning those all need to be replaced
You are being terribly trivial and trying to be a bit too technical and that is the angle at which you're trying to call me on. A cam is increadibly stout with regards to items that wear out faster such as valve springs, retainers and valve guides. It doesn't take a high I.Q. to undestand the fundimentals of thermodynamics on rapidly moving parts. Do I need to say 'preventative measurements' again? I say that OEM valve train parts are not sutable for the setup I had, you say that they are suitable for setups that made significantly less whp than I did. You're trying to prove what again? Where were the fuel cut offs set on these cars and how many miles were on the parts in question before boost was put into the equation?

Originally Posted by 97CWITR
http://forums.evans-tuning.com...=4554 stock gsr head, cams, tb, IM, valve train 425whp...I'd say thats pretty good for stock parts wouldnt you? Right between his goals of "between 350whp and 500whp" Thats using smaller gsr parts...
Rocking. Read above.

Originally Posted by 97CWITR
Thanks fior spitting your your magical setup, even though yours might me similiar, must we bring up again how 2 engines react differently to the same setup?
Wait for it...wait for it...you're about to answer your own question again...

Originally Posted by 97CWITR
Becasue I research the crap out of the parts I put on my car! Thats why. If you think you NEED 2 gates to control boost on your setup at 350-500whp on a medium sized turbo, you have other issues that u need to figure out.
So what you're saying is:
Every engine and setup reacts differently.
OEM valve train parts are the same and/or a non-issue regardless of milage.
If someone needs two waste gates to control boost, they have problems. Yet every engine and setup acts differently.

Originally Posted by 97CWITR
Im not the only one who thinks 2 gates is over kill:
"Full-Race ProAm T4/44 Dual Gate Manifold unless you plan on getting this used and its a great deal a regular pro-am manifold with single gate will work just fine unless you plan on running a massive turbo at low boost (the twin gates help regulate boost on huge turbo's with low boost, otherwise they are unnecessary)"
-copzter

makes sense to me?
It makes sense or it doesn't? You ended your statement with a question mark. At any rate, what that person says above is trivial. Let's go back up to where you say that every engine and setup reacts differently. Shall we keep hashing that? I say it would have been great on my setup as I was at full boost at suck a low RPM. You say I'm an idiot. How do you know that my setup wouldn't have benifited from a second waste gate? As I am using my own setup as a reference point to help the OP.

There is a member here who has an ITR turbo'd with dual waste gates, and with his comparative testing, he swears by dual waste gates. Sounds like I'm not the only one out there.

You still haven't answered my question about having personal experience running and tuning a kit from Geoff. I'll swear on my left nut that they are the most efficient quickest power making kits currently available.

Originally Posted by 97CWITR
Cait wait to hear you discredit the dyno graphs there champ!
I didn't bother to look. I don't care. I'm using my setup as an example to the OP. You are using various different setups...which again...'react differently'.

I'm off to eat some supper. Hope our arguement is helping the OP.
Old 07-01-2007, 07:12 PM
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thanks for the info

already got full size alum koyo
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