Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
01-01-2017, 11:33 AM
#26
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Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
First, any nut or bolt in cotact with a bushing or a mount should be tightened with load.
Put the cars weight on it before you tighten it.
Secondly, the bolt on the fork through the lower control arm, you need to cut it on both sides with a reciprocating saw. The bolt is siezed on the sleeve.
I suggest you use a press to install the bushing. Good luck
Put the cars weight on it before you tighten it.
Secondly, the bolt on the fork through the lower control arm, you need to cut it on both sides with a reciprocating saw. The bolt is siezed on the sleeve.
I suggest you use a press to install the bushing. Good luck
01-01-2017, 01:18 PM
#27
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Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
First, any nut or bolt in cotact with a bushing or a mount should be tightened with load.
Put the cars weight on it before you tighten it.
Secondly, the bolt on the fork through the lower control arm, you need to cut it on both sides with a reciprocating saw. The bolt is siezed on the sleeve.
I suggest you use a press to install the bushing. Good luck
Put the cars weight on it before you tighten it.
Secondly, the bolt on the fork through the lower control arm, you need to cut it on both sides with a reciprocating saw. The bolt is siezed on the sleeve.
I suggest you use a press to install the bushing. Good luck
Can you help me make a list of all the nuts and bolts that are in contact with bushings or a mount? Are the pivot nuts on the upper control arm included in this?
My buddy who has been a Honda tech for quite some time now, who use to do most if not all the work on my R, back in the day, said just putting on the upper control straight out of the box was fine, and there was no need to loosen the pivot bolts and re-tighten then once I jack up the suspension to put load on it. Not saying anyone is wrong here. When I took out the skunk2 adjustable upper arm, the arm was just loose, no tension on it at all, but the new OEM one seemed to be tightened pretty good and "clocked" out of the box, so I didn't want to loosen them. But I see guys on youtube loosening the pivot bolts and kind of getting the suspension near its normal height, and tightening them down to spec. Which also brings up another point, there isn't a torque spec on the pivot bolts for the upper control arm in the 98 integra service manual.
So stressful man! lol! I really wish I had the proper training for this stuff.
01-01-2017, 03:02 PM
#28
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Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
This is the type of affordable spring compressor that generally works with these springs:
https://www.google.com/search?q=coil...Gwne2ryediM%3A
https://www.google.com/search?q=coil...Gwne2ryediM%3A
01-02-2017, 06:46 AM
#29
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Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
This is the type of affordable spring compressor that generally works with these springs:
https://www.google.com/search?q=coil...Gwne2ryediM%3A
https://www.google.com/search?q=coil...Gwne2ryediM%3A
01-02-2017, 02:46 PM
#31
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Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
Your friend is correct with the upper control arms out of the box. Those pivot bolts are clocked and are not to be loosened.
Loosening and re tightening them only makes sense if your car is lower than stock. Even then there is no torque spec for the said pivot bolts. This does not apply to you since it will be stock height.
As far as nuts and bolts, you really only need to replace the self locking nuts IIRC.
Btw, replacing these parts take quite a bit. I would suggest just paying someone if you feel you are not competent enough to tackle the job. Save yourself the headaches
Loosening and re tightening them only makes sense if your car is lower than stock. Even then there is no torque spec for the said pivot bolts. This does not apply to you since it will be stock height.
As far as nuts and bolts, you really only need to replace the self locking nuts IIRC.
Btw, replacing these parts take quite a bit. I would suggest just paying someone if you feel you are not competent enough to tackle the job. Save yourself the headaches
01-02-2017, 05:50 PM
#32
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Thread Starter
Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
Your friend is correct with the upper control arms out of the box. Those pivot bolts are clocked and are not to be loosened.
Loosening and re tightening them only makes sense if your car is lower than stock. Even then there is no torque spec for the said pivot bolts. This does not apply to you since it will be stock height.
As far as nuts and bolts, you really only need to replace the self locking nuts IIRC.
Btw, replacing these parts take quite a bit. I would suggest just paying someone if you feel you are not competent enough to tackle the job. Save yourself the headaches
Loosening and re tightening them only makes sense if your car is lower than stock. Even then there is no torque spec for the said pivot bolts. This does not apply to you since it will be stock height.
As far as nuts and bolts, you really only need to replace the self locking nuts IIRC.
Btw, replacing these parts take quite a bit. I would suggest just paying someone if you feel you are not competent enough to tackle the job. Save yourself the headaches
01-03-2017, 07:04 AM
#33
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Thread Starter
Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
I have another question, so my R can be driveable right now, IF I can get the front right suspension lower than where it sits while the front end is up in the air. If I can get this lower then I can replace the upper control arm and put in the new OEM strut w/ OEM spring, button it up and drive it till the parts come in. Then I could just drive the car to where it will get worked on and let them have at it and install all the stuff in one session.
Right at this moment, the lower ball joint is still bolted down to the lower control arm, if I unbolt it, separate it, will the front lower control arm drop down further? I think I need about 1-1.5 inches more to remove the blown strut assembly, and maybe almost 2 more inches of downard travel to get in the new OEM strut.
Right at this moment, the lower ball joint is still bolted down to the lower control arm, if I unbolt it, separate it, will the front lower control arm drop down further? I think I need about 1-1.5 inches more to remove the blown strut assembly, and maybe almost 2 more inches of downard travel to get in the new OEM strut.
01-03-2017, 03:05 PM
#34
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Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
Unbolt the swaybar endlink.
Have somebody step on the hub to push it down and give you the room you need if necessary.
Have somebody step on the hub to push it down and give you the room you need if necessary.
01-03-2017, 03:14 PM
#35
-Intl Steve Krew
Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
Unbolt the upper ball joint.
Thats what I had to do when I was putting in my OEM CTR suspension.
Also testify is right, unbolting the sway bar end link will allow the arms to droop further.
Thats what I had to do when I was putting in my OEM CTR suspension.
Also testify is right, unbolting the sway bar end link will allow the arms to droop further.
01-04-2017, 11:17 AM
#36
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Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
01-05-2017, 03:14 PM
#38
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01-05-2017, 03:22 PM
#39
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Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
So I have an update, got the front right new OEM strut in, along with the new OEM upper control arm! *fist pump* I removed the lower bolt on the sway bar end link and it didn't give any more room, but when I unbolted the upper ball joint it gave more than enough, btw had to use a ball joint seperator from harbor freight, it didn't take much effort from it at all, I guess I loosened it with all the hammering (drywall hammer) I did a few hours before hand. I drove the car and it rides so much nicer. I be driving it around until my new lower control arms come in which may take a while.
Have another issue I'm not sure about, this has been happening for a long time now. When Im accelerating the car pulls hard to the left, and when I left off the gas to shift gears it pulls back to the right. The tires I have on the fronts are mismatched and wearing unevenly due to the messed up camber when the car was lowered. This issue has been persistent with other stock ITR wheels with matching tread and tread depth. I'm hoping its not a sign of a bad LSD...
Any ideas?
Have another issue I'm not sure about, this has been happening for a long time now. When Im accelerating the car pulls hard to the left, and when I left off the gas to shift gears it pulls back to the right. The tires I have on the fronts are mismatched and wearing unevenly due to the messed up camber when the car was lowered. This issue has been persistent with other stock ITR wheels with matching tread and tread depth. I'm hoping its not a sign of a bad LSD...
Any ideas?
Last edited by TypeRod; 01-05-2017 at 04:38 PM.
01-05-2017, 03:33 PM
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Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
Did you damage the boot on the upper ball joint or squeeze out the grease?
It's not usually a good idea to use a BJ separator especially a pickel fork on a BJ you intend to reuse.
The driving issue sounds like you have a very bad alignment or have something loose in the suspension.
It's not usually a good idea to use a BJ separator especially a pickel fork on a BJ you intend to reuse.
The driving issue sounds like you have a very bad alignment or have something loose in the suspension.
01-05-2017, 04:33 PM
#41
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Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
Did you damage the boot on the upper ball joint or squeeze out the grease?
It's not usually a good idea to use a BJ separator especially a pickel fork on a BJ you intend to reuse.
The driving issue sounds like you have a very bad alignment or have something loose in the suspension.
It's not usually a good idea to use a BJ separator especially a pickel fork on a BJ you intend to reuse.
The driving issue sounds like you have a very bad alignment or have something loose in the suspension.
Thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions! I'll update this thread as piece by piece gets installed.
01-05-2017, 04:39 PM
#43
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01-05-2017, 04:44 PM
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Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
Yes. That's is a major issue.
It puts you and every other innocent person on the road in danger.
Either something is loose enough in the suspension that the hub or the steering rack is literally moving around, or the alignment is so bad that the car is changing direction purely based on what wheel is weighted.
Either way it's a quick, cheap, easy, simple (diy) fix, but a really dangerous prospect of driving the vehicle on a public road in that condition.
It puts you and every other innocent person on the road in danger.
Either something is loose enough in the suspension that the hub or the steering rack is literally moving around, or the alignment is so bad that the car is changing direction purely based on what wheel is weighted.
Either way it's a quick, cheap, easy, simple (diy) fix, but a really dangerous prospect of driving the vehicle on a public road in that condition.
01-06-2017, 06:05 AM
#45
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Thread Starter
Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
Yes. That's is a major issue.
It puts you and every other innocent person on the road in danger.
Either something is loose enough in the suspension that the hub or the steering rack is literally moving around, or the alignment is so bad that the car is changing direction purely based on what wheel is weighted.
Either way it's a quick, cheap, easy, simple (diy) fix, but a really dangerous prospect of driving the vehicle on a public road in that condition.
It puts you and every other innocent person on the road in danger.
Either something is loose enough in the suspension that the hub or the steering rack is literally moving around, or the alignment is so bad that the car is changing direction purely based on what wheel is weighted.
Either way it's a quick, cheap, easy, simple (diy) fix, but a really dangerous prospect of driving the vehicle on a public road in that condition.
01-21-2017, 10:00 AM
#46
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Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
So just an update....the right shock fork bolt was seized in two places, the lower control bushing and the shock fork itself. Went ahead and ordered two new forks and fork pinch bolts. I had bought a sawzall to cut the bolt and it took me forever even with the saw, maybe it was my fault, I think I was suppsed to use a slower cutting speed, I had it on the highest speed. And the metal blades I was using went dull right near the end of almost getting thru the bolt. Then since this corrosion isn't has me anxious and OCD going crazy, I went ahead and ordered new compliance bushings and bolts/nuts/hardware, since I'm putting in new lower control arms, I might as well start with fresh components.
I'm going to try and tackle the lower ball joint R&R as well, hopefully all goes well there. As soon as I finish one thing something else goes wrong or something else needs replacing, this entire project will be taking at least a few months, and I'm still waiting on my huge order to come in with the other small suspension parts for the front and rear.
I'm going to try and tackle the lower ball joint R&R as well, hopefully all goes well there. As soon as I finish one thing something else goes wrong or something else needs replacing, this entire project will be taking at least a few months, and I'm still waiting on my huge order to come in with the other small suspension parts for the front and rear.
02-01-2017, 09:33 AM
#47
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Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
I'm sure you're long done with this, but here's what I'd do. With a spring compressed using a spring compressor, I'd just throw the strut assembly in a vice and flip the spring compressed side down, then HACKSAW through the strut rod, taking care not to damage your factory spring. Once the rod is cut in two, you're spring will be free and you can simply lift and replace onto your new strut.
Ok so I have another update for anyone interested in reading, lol. So today I started the fronts, I bought OEM struts and will be using the OEM springs. With my dad's help I was able to put enough weight on the assembly to get the locking started, but did not have enough strength to get the locking nut as far down as it should. So I went to autozone to go borrow a spring compressing tool, took a look at it and I wasn't sure it was going to fit (i totally forgot to bring the strut assembly with me). Got home and sure enough the "fingers" to grab the coils were too large and wouldn't fit between the coils near the top of the assembly. So went back to autozone, returned it. Went to advance auto, they have the same frickin tool! lol! Then went to harbor freight, they also had the same design tool which wont work, and they had this huge like bear trap type spring compressor and I didn't even want to deal with it. Then I went to pep boys, they also have the same tool that doesn't work, THEN I went into their service area and explained my situation, a nice older gentleman, assisted me, all he did was just take his air impact and gave it a whirl for a few seconds or so and it lowered the locking nut, BUT my dumb self didn't bring the other strut with me, so I asked him if I could go home and get the 2nd strut and come back and he gladly obliged. I asked him how much do I owe him and he said I could give him a little bit or not it didn't matter to him. So then I drove back home then back to pep boys, he took care of the second strut. Super nice guy, saved my alot of hassle. I gave him $20.
So I get home after about 2 hours of running around stressing, b/c I'm a novice at the car game, lol. I was also worried I wouldn't get the top hat of the strut assembly at the right position, and would have to go back to the guy at pep boys, lol. So I get home started on the left front, it went fairly smooth for the most part, everything fit as should. Started on the front right, and I hit a huge snag....I went and got the nut off the strut fork, then when I try to back out the bolt, the dang thing isn't budging, Im blasting on the thing with my 18V bosch impact gun, nothing. I hammer and hammer, then I soak the thing in penetrating oils (pb blaster and liquid wrench), still nothing. I was desperate I held a bic lighter to it for 90 seconds, lol. So this is what I can gather, the bushing the fork bolt goes through is seized to the bolt, I wanna say there is a metal collar in the bushing. When I try to "left loosey" the bolt it won't turn but it gets bouncy, I took a closer look and I see the bushing which is torn but not all the way through, and its twisting when I turn the bolt left. I have video but it may be hard to tell b/c everything time I put pressure on the fork the camera shakes, lol. Is this a common issue? I do drive the car when it snows.
Any suggestions are welcome, I gave it the ol' college try, but no dice. In the very least I'll have to replace that bushing, and the through bolt. maybe I should just replace all the bushings while I'm at it, but I'll have to let the pro's do that for me. The car is still front end up in the air, till I figure out what I want to do. Maybe letting the penetrating oil sit over night will help?
AHHHHHH!!!! I hate not being able to finish this! I'm soo close to being done, LOL! Please also excuse the shaky video.
EDIT: video is too large, won't let me upload
So I get home after about 2 hours of running around stressing, b/c I'm a novice at the car game, lol. I was also worried I wouldn't get the top hat of the strut assembly at the right position, and would have to go back to the guy at pep boys, lol. So I get home started on the left front, it went fairly smooth for the most part, everything fit as should. Started on the front right, and I hit a huge snag....I went and got the nut off the strut fork, then when I try to back out the bolt, the dang thing isn't budging, Im blasting on the thing with my 18V bosch impact gun, nothing. I hammer and hammer, then I soak the thing in penetrating oils (pb blaster and liquid wrench), still nothing. I was desperate I held a bic lighter to it for 90 seconds, lol. So this is what I can gather, the bushing the fork bolt goes through is seized to the bolt, I wanna say there is a metal collar in the bushing. When I try to "left loosey" the bolt it won't turn but it gets bouncy, I took a closer look and I see the bushing which is torn but not all the way through, and its twisting when I turn the bolt left. I have video but it may be hard to tell b/c everything time I put pressure on the fork the camera shakes, lol. Is this a common issue? I do drive the car when it snows.
Any suggestions are welcome, I gave it the ol' college try, but no dice. In the very least I'll have to replace that bushing, and the through bolt. maybe I should just replace all the bushings while I'm at it, but I'll have to let the pro's do that for me. The car is still front end up in the air, till I figure out what I want to do. Maybe letting the penetrating oil sit over night will help?
AHHHHHH!!!! I hate not being able to finish this! I'm soo close to being done, LOL! Please also excuse the shaky video.
EDIT: video is too large, won't let me upload
02-05-2017, 07:26 AM
#48
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
I'm sure you're long done with this, but here's what I'd do. With a spring compressed using a spring compressor, I'd just throw the strut assembly in a vice and flip the spring compressed side down, then HACKSAW through the strut rod, taking care not to damage your factory spring. Once the rod is cut in two, you're spring will be free and you can simply lift and replace onto your new strut.
02-06-2017, 10:21 AM
#49
Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
Ball joints are easy if you get these two tool sets from Autozone free rentals. All you need is your ratchet. I even knocked one of these out on the sidewalk in front of autozone without having to give them my credit card. Super easy.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...164-a-2987276/
Youtube videos suck!
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...164-a-2987276/
Youtube videos suck!
Last edited by 94eg!; 02-06-2017 at 10:39 AM.
02-06-2017, 02:12 PM
#50
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Putting my R back to stock ride height...BUT
Ball joints are easy if you get these two tool sets from Autozone free rentals. All you need is your ratchet. I even knocked one of these out on the sidewalk in front of autozone without having to give them my credit card. Super easy.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...164-a-2987276/
Youtube videos suck!
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...164-a-2987276/
Youtube videos suck!
Thanks to you and former user for providing great write up! cheers!