Nameless Warrior

My radiator fan is not working and I am having overheat problem in traffic. I read some of the threads regarding this, and they said to "jump" the fan to see if it's working. How exactly do you do that? Also, couple people recommend if the fan is working I should just wire it through a switch so I can have it on and off whenever I want. Any of you guy have a write up about this?

Eva01

IIRC, I believe "jumping" the fan can be accomplished by using a paperclip or wire to complete the circut of the thermostat connector similar to how you jump the ECU to read off a code.

I'm sure that's how it's accomplished, I'm just not 100% sure if the thermostat connector is correct. Maybe someone can confirm?

walker111

I believe its the fan switch that you will jump. Green plug under dizzy...

Nameless Warrior

Well, thanks for your help but I figured it out.

First, you take some long wires. Something off of a headphone or whatever.

Second, you connect two end to the fan connector that's ON the fan itself. Located on the upper left hand side of the fan if you're standing in front of the car looking towards the passenger side.

Third, you take the other end of the wire and lightly touch the batter on your car. place one in NEGATIVE and place one in POSITIVe and you should see your fan run.

mstewar

or you could've just jumped the switch and that will tell you exactly what it was..

mstewar

or you could've just jumped the switch and that will tell you exactly what it was..

I think your fan may not be working because of your coolant leak, not vice versa.. you really should isolate exactly WHERE the steam is coming from before replacing anything..

Spids5

iTrader: (40)

I posted this in another thread. It should help but if you have any questions just send me a pm.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spids5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The fan shouldn't be that hard to fix as long as you have a volt meter.

First start by checking the fuses 41, 39 and 33 under the hood. There is also a fuse 13 that should be checked that is under the dash.

If those are all good check out the radiator fan relay which is located under the hood. When the power and ground are connected there should be continuity between leg A and C. There should be no continuity when the power is disconnected.

If that is good then you need to check continuity between all the wires and make sure all the grounds are good.

If all the wires are good you need to check the fan itself by connecting power to terminal B and ground to terminal A. If the fan comes on it is good, if not replace it.

If everything is good the last thing you need to check is the Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) Switch. If this switch is bad the fan will not come on because there will be no ground. If you think this is what is causing the problem you can check it by taking it out and putting it in coolant that is 91 to 96 celsius and you should get continuity between terimal A and B.

If you have any questions just shoot me a pm, goodluck.</TD></TR></TABLE>