Ghettofying the R. Ram Air baby.
03-21-2004, 07:35 AM
#1
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Ghettofying the R. Ram Air baby.
Being that my days with the stock B18C5 in my car are now numbered (thanks Chad), I decided to go ahead and try some crazy, although safe, modifications. My car was damaged in my recent trip to North Carolina, right before Marc's BBQ, on the front right. Damage isn't severe, but it's enough to justify a JDM front. Being that I already have most of the pieces for the conversion on order, I figured I have some fun with this one.
DIY Ram Air
I'm sure I'm far from the first do this, but honestly, I'm surprised more people don't. Thirty bucks and a trip to the Home Depot left me with a piece of 3 inch PVC pipe, a 4 inch to 3 inch connector, a rubber PVC connector, some small chicken wire, about half a dozen hose clamps, and a very large piece of A/C filter. We also swung by Pep Boys and picked up some rubber hose to relocate the coolant reservoir as it was very much in the way.
To start with, my headlight was already being held in by nothing but one bolt and an array of zip ties due to the fact that it was already broken and cracked in numerous spots due to the accident. I've never been one to use the high beams anyway so I whipped out the hack saw and effectively separated the high beam housing from the low beam housing. After doing this, I then realized that I now had nothing but zip ties and duct tape to secure the headlight as the only bolt was on the high beam side. Oh well.
Creating the intake was easy, After spray painting the PVC flat black, I quickly realized that the 3 inch rubber PVC connector would not fit on my sawed off AEM intake. Not to worry, instead of using the front of the intake to mount a filtration system, I simply cut out two layers of A/C filter and hose clamped them to the AEM, and the PVC connector fit perfectly. it even had enough play to adjust it properly before tightening, and is surprisingly solid when tightened. I then put the 4 inch to 3 inch connector on the front of the pipe in hopes of enticing a little more air into the system.
NOTE: The material choice here was made due to cost and effectiveness. Last night at least fifteen people asked me why I used PVC. The reasoning is simple, the inside of the pipe is smoother than a baby's ***. I also received questions as to why I used A/C filter, and the reasoning, while simple, requires a bit more explanation. Last weekend, a friend and I found some scraps of this stuff at a nearby construction site, and we figured we would test it to see how good it was. After numerous durability tests, and then some makeshift filtration testing, we determined that in addition to being more breathable than most automotive filters, it was almost as durable and filters the air at least as well as the majority of automotive air filters on the market. Also note that due to the particular design of this setup, filter changes should be frequent, every 1000 miles or so, but considering the fact that six bucks will buy you enough of this crap to make about ten filters, I'm not complaining.
After I thought about it for a little while, I determined that the risk of a rock/large bug/piece of road debris/etc was too great and decided to mount a piece of wire mesh over the former location of the high beam just to be safe. I picked a size large enough to not constrict airflow, but small enough to trap any debris that I determined might cause damage to the filter. I used some small chicken wire that was spray painted flat black, and I duct taped it to the bumper in such a way that it may never come off.
At this point, the intake was done, and all I had left was to mount everything and put the bumper back on. My first issue was with the coolant reservoir. Being that it's surprisingly tall, no amount of rearrangement resulted in a mounting arrangement that suited my conditions of keeping it upright, and safe from the heat radiating from the header. After staring at the engine bay for a good twenty minutes, I figured the ideal location was to mount it in the previous location of the wiper fluid reservoir, long since removed in the name of weight reduction. My other issue was with the remaining half of the headlight assembly. I tried for about an hour to rig up something to bolt it to, but in the end, used about two dozen zip ties, some duct tape, and a peg from a BMX bike to secure it. Honestly, that headlight is probably more secure in the engine bay right now than the engine is. After securing it, I reassembled the front end of the car and happily cranked it up.
HOLY **** this thing is loud. After resetting the ECU and letting it get properly warmed up, a friend free revved it a few times. This thing is so ridiculously loud that if driven in a grave yard, it would effectively wake the dead. Being serious, a local 97 modified Supra (one of the loudest street cars I've ever heard) actually claimed to be able to hear my car over his with me driving behind him.
In addition to the unbelievable level of sound, I was also quite impressed with the performance aspect of this mod. Though only really functional at speed, it made quite a difference in the performance of the vehicle. Anything above sixty mph feels a hell of a lot better, the engine seems to function much more like it should. Even when launching from a dead stop, though no difference was noted in first gear, I had to watch to tach a bit more closely to prevent bouncing off the rev limited in second and third. On the highway, the car felt amazing, the engine was notably more responsive and seemed to be performing much healthier.
Now that it's all said and done, I'm kicking myself for not having done this sooner. Yeah, my **** looks ghetto as ****, but I don't care, it runs great plus I have a carbon fiber JDM conversion coming.
Here are some pics.
Here is the front of the car with the setup installed.
Here is the side of the car with the setup installed.
A pic of the engine bay showing the setup.
And another.
Here is one of the relocated coolant reservoir.
And finally a close up from the front.
Let me know what you think.
DIY Ram Air
I'm sure I'm far from the first do this, but honestly, I'm surprised more people don't. Thirty bucks and a trip to the Home Depot left me with a piece of 3 inch PVC pipe, a 4 inch to 3 inch connector, a rubber PVC connector, some small chicken wire, about half a dozen hose clamps, and a very large piece of A/C filter. We also swung by Pep Boys and picked up some rubber hose to relocate the coolant reservoir as it was very much in the way.
To start with, my headlight was already being held in by nothing but one bolt and an array of zip ties due to the fact that it was already broken and cracked in numerous spots due to the accident. I've never been one to use the high beams anyway so I whipped out the hack saw and effectively separated the high beam housing from the low beam housing. After doing this, I then realized that I now had nothing but zip ties and duct tape to secure the headlight as the only bolt was on the high beam side. Oh well.
Creating the intake was easy, After spray painting the PVC flat black, I quickly realized that the 3 inch rubber PVC connector would not fit on my sawed off AEM intake. Not to worry, instead of using the front of the intake to mount a filtration system, I simply cut out two layers of A/C filter and hose clamped them to the AEM, and the PVC connector fit perfectly. it even had enough play to adjust it properly before tightening, and is surprisingly solid when tightened. I then put the 4 inch to 3 inch connector on the front of the pipe in hopes of enticing a little more air into the system.
NOTE: The material choice here was made due to cost and effectiveness. Last night at least fifteen people asked me why I used PVC. The reasoning is simple, the inside of the pipe is smoother than a baby's ***. I also received questions as to why I used A/C filter, and the reasoning, while simple, requires a bit more explanation. Last weekend, a friend and I found some scraps of this stuff at a nearby construction site, and we figured we would test it to see how good it was. After numerous durability tests, and then some makeshift filtration testing, we determined that in addition to being more breathable than most automotive filters, it was almost as durable and filters the air at least as well as the majority of automotive air filters on the market. Also note that due to the particular design of this setup, filter changes should be frequent, every 1000 miles or so, but considering the fact that six bucks will buy you enough of this crap to make about ten filters, I'm not complaining.
After I thought about it for a little while, I determined that the risk of a rock/large bug/piece of road debris/etc was too great and decided to mount a piece of wire mesh over the former location of the high beam just to be safe. I picked a size large enough to not constrict airflow, but small enough to trap any debris that I determined might cause damage to the filter. I used some small chicken wire that was spray painted flat black, and I duct taped it to the bumper in such a way that it may never come off.
At this point, the intake was done, and all I had left was to mount everything and put the bumper back on. My first issue was with the coolant reservoir. Being that it's surprisingly tall, no amount of rearrangement resulted in a mounting arrangement that suited my conditions of keeping it upright, and safe from the heat radiating from the header. After staring at the engine bay for a good twenty minutes, I figured the ideal location was to mount it in the previous location of the wiper fluid reservoir, long since removed in the name of weight reduction. My other issue was with the remaining half of the headlight assembly. I tried for about an hour to rig up something to bolt it to, but in the end, used about two dozen zip ties, some duct tape, and a peg from a BMX bike to secure it. Honestly, that headlight is probably more secure in the engine bay right now than the engine is. After securing it, I reassembled the front end of the car and happily cranked it up.
HOLY **** this thing is loud. After resetting the ECU and letting it get properly warmed up, a friend free revved it a few times. This thing is so ridiculously loud that if driven in a grave yard, it would effectively wake the dead. Being serious, a local 97 modified Supra (one of the loudest street cars I've ever heard) actually claimed to be able to hear my car over his with me driving behind him.
In addition to the unbelievable level of sound, I was also quite impressed with the performance aspect of this mod. Though only really functional at speed, it made quite a difference in the performance of the vehicle. Anything above sixty mph feels a hell of a lot better, the engine seems to function much more like it should. Even when launching from a dead stop, though no difference was noted in first gear, I had to watch to tach a bit more closely to prevent bouncing off the rev limited in second and third. On the highway, the car felt amazing, the engine was notably more responsive and seemed to be performing much healthier.
Now that it's all said and done, I'm kicking myself for not having done this sooner. Yeah, my **** looks ghetto as ****, but I don't care, it runs great plus I have a carbon fiber JDM conversion coming.
Here are some pics.
Here is the front of the car with the setup installed.
Here is the side of the car with the setup installed.
A pic of the engine bay showing the setup.
And another.
Here is one of the relocated coolant reservoir.
And finally a close up from the front.
Let me know what you think.
03-21-2004, 07:45 AM
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Re: Ghettofying the R. Ram Air baby. (Kendall)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Here is one of the relocated coolant reservoir.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
isn't you coolant reservior suppose to be level w/ you radiator
Here is one of the relocated coolant reservoir.
</TD></TR></TABLE>isn't you coolant reservior suppose to be level w/ you radiator
03-21-2004, 07:49 AM
#3
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Re: Ghettofying the R. Ram Air baby. (96 Ls lnTeG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96 Ls lnTeG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">isn't you coolant reservior suppose to be level w/ you radiator</TD></TR></TABLE>
Supposed to be...yes.
Is it really going to matter...not really.
Supposed to be...yes.
Is it really going to matter...not really.
03-21-2004, 08:50 AM
#4
Re: Ghettofying the R. Ram Air baby. (Kendall)
What exactly is A/C filter? Got a pic? Is it like one of the panel filters you put in a furnace? I have seen some sort of filter @ HD that is black foam - is that what you used?
- Slater
- Slater
03-21-2004, 08:58 AM
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Re: Ghettofying the R. Ram Air baby. (Slater)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slater »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What exactly is A/C filter? Got a pic? Is it like one of the panel filters you put in a furnace? I have seen some sort of filter @ HD that is black foam - is that what you used?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not smooth and thin like furnace filters, but rather rough and quite thick. It's blue like the furnace filters, but much more robust. I'd get you a picture, but I don't have any of it here at work. Any Home Depot should have it. It's like $5.88 for a sheet and can be found right next to the furnace filters.
It's not smooth and thin like furnace filters, but rather rough and quite thick. It's blue like the furnace filters, but much more robust. I'd get you a picture, but I don't have any of it here at work. Any Home Depot should have it. It's like $5.88 for a sheet and can be found right next to the furnace filters.
03-21-2004, 09:27 AM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
now THAT is bling 
In reference to my "intake temp" observations recently posted, I wouldnt be surprised at all if this mod is very noticable at speed. My set up which was not nearly as direct as this, showed around 10 degrees cooler intake temps, and Im sure this is much more especially at speed. and cold air is more dense, and therefore makes more HP. awesome
In reference to my "intake temp" observations recently posted, I wouldnt be surprised at all if this mod is very noticable at speed. My set up which was not nearly as direct as this, showed around 10 degrees cooler intake temps, and Im sure this is much more especially at speed. and cold air is more dense, and therefore makes more HP. awesome
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03-21-2004, 10:45 AM
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Cool idea, just like the iceman intake. I went to the recent hondata seminar and they said that it was better to place the intake somewhere lower. The reason is because, the headlight is an area of low pressure. You can understand if you think of how an airplane wing works and think about the shape of the front of your car.
03-21-2004, 10:53 AM
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Re: (Alchemist)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alchemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went to the recent hondata seminar and they said that it was better to place the intake somewhere lower. The reason is because, the headlight is an area of low pressure. You can understand if you think of how an airplane wing works and think about the shape of the front of your car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Theoretically this is true, however the difference is almost negligable in almost every situation. What I was going for with this setup isn't air temperature or air density, but rather air velocity. 70 degree air getting shoved into the engine at 60 mph will perform better than 60 degree air getting sucked in from within the engine bay. In the same case, air getting shoved in at 60 mph will be under the constant pressure of the additional air getting shoved in behind it, thus making it more dense. Note that I used a 4 in. to 3 in. connector to try and get a velocity stack effect at the mouth of the intake.
Theoretically this is true, however the difference is almost negligable in almost every situation. What I was going for with this setup isn't air temperature or air density, but rather air velocity. 70 degree air getting shoved into the engine at 60 mph will perform better than 60 degree air getting sucked in from within the engine bay. In the same case, air getting shoved in at 60 mph will be under the constant pressure of the additional air getting shoved in behind it, thus making it more dense. Note that I used a 4 in. to 3 in. connector to try and get a velocity stack effect at the mouth of the intake.
03-21-2004, 01:01 PM
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Thats cool. I have AEM intake with the lower plastic wheel well end cut off. It works like a champ, i drive it on the street when its sunny mostly, but even when i got caught in rain i just go slow and arround puddles, works great. You can touch it right behind the bumper down there, its nice..
03-21-2004, 01:17 PM
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i've done something similar w/ my JDM front (but I have to remove the entire headlight); at the track the VAFC acutally showed POSITIVE pressure, however I wasn't using a filer at all and was using a J's Racing arm. My "inlet" was also much bigger, I used a dryer vent (approx 10 inches wide x 4 tall).
03-21-2004, 02:06 PM
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Re: Ghettofying the R. Ram Air baby. (Kendall)
hmm.. i'd be concerned with filtration and durability of these a/c filters with all the heat inside the engine bay.. - i'm saying this without having much clue on how your filters look or constructed.. just mentioning stuff.
another concern would be CFM. not that you need a whole lot for stock itr, but you want it to meet minimal requirements.
other that that - looking good!
another concern would be CFM. not that you need a whole lot for stock itr, but you want it to meet minimal requirements.
other that that - looking good!
03-21-2004, 02:58 PM
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Re: Ghettofying the R. Ram Air baby. (vtec.dc2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm.. i'd be concerned with filtration and durability of these a/c filters with all the heat inside the engine bay.. - i'm saying this without having much clue on how your filters look or constructed.. just mentioning stuff.
another concern would be CFM. not that you need a whole lot for stock itr, but you want it to meet minimal requirements.</TD></TR></TABLE>
These were actually major considerations on this project. About the heat issue, the filter element isn't exposed to great enough heat in the intake to cause problems. We put samples in the oven and baked it to 200 degrees just to be sure. Also note that the constant air supply will provide adequate defence against any extreme levels of heat. Heat soak was considered, but in the end we concluded that it wasn't enough of an issue to be seriously concerned. As far as CFM, the filter element breathes very well, it's almost free flowing. The only real concern is how long it will remain effective. After careful consideration we determined that the filter element needs to be replaced about every 1000 miles as the decreased amount of surface area will cause it to get dirty and clog easier.
another concern would be CFM. not that you need a whole lot for stock itr, but you want it to meet minimal requirements.</TD></TR></TABLE>
These were actually major considerations on this project. About the heat issue, the filter element isn't exposed to great enough heat in the intake to cause problems. We put samples in the oven and baked it to 200 degrees just to be sure. Also note that the constant air supply will provide adequate defence against any extreme levels of heat. Heat soak was considered, but in the end we concluded that it wasn't enough of an issue to be seriously concerned. As far as CFM, the filter element breathes very well, it's almost free flowing. The only real concern is how long it will remain effective. After careful consideration we determined that the filter element needs to be replaced about every 1000 miles as the decreased amount of surface area will cause it to get dirty and clog easier.
03-21-2004, 03:01 PM
#17
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Re: (Kendall)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 70 degree air getting shoved into the engine at 60 mph will perform better than 60 degree air getting sucked in from within the engine bay. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I disagree. In your case colder is always better, because functional ram air below 100 mph wouldn't make that much of a difference. And if the headlight area is indeed a low pressure zone, you won't see any ram air effect at all. The faster you go the harder the engine has to work to suck the air in.
However, I think the headlight area may be a superior location for an intake over the AEM CAI setup because the air closer to the tarmac on a very hot day can be extreemly hot, while the air two feet up is only warm.
Props for creativity.
I disagree. In your case colder is always better, because functional ram air below 100 mph wouldn't make that much of a difference. And if the headlight area is indeed a low pressure zone, you won't see any ram air effect at all. The faster you go the harder the engine has to work to suck the air in.
However, I think the headlight area may be a superior location for an intake over the AEM CAI setup because the air closer to the tarmac on a very hot day can be extreemly hot, while the air two feet up is only warm.
Props for creativity.
03-21-2004, 05:35 PM
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Re: (Dr Pooface)
Looks good, but why didn't you just leave the headlight together and cut out the main beam front lens and the rear, this way you could still mount it and it would look alot cleaner.
To the others about the pressure, I am sure that there is still a good amount of air getting pushed in at speeds,
but is the air getting pushed in at a greater rate than that of air being sucked in?
To the others about the pressure, I am sure that there is still a good amount of air getting pushed in at speeds,
but is the air getting pushed in at a greater rate than that of air being sucked in?
03-21-2004, 05:40 PM
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Re: (Arsenal)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arsenal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks good, but why didn't you just leave the headlight together and cut out the main beam front lens and the rear, this way you could still mount it and it would look alot cleaner.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because I like it with chicken wire and PVC.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arsenal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To the others about the pressure, I am sure that there is still a good amount of air getting pushed in at speeds,
but is the air getting pushed in at a greater rate than that of air being sucked in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Either way, it's more air getting pushed in than there would have been with the traditional AEM setup. Honestly, due to what I'm getting out of the butt dyno, it has a dramatic effect at high speeds and a modest effect at moderate speeds. Going at low speeds, it doesn't really do anything but look ghetto-fab ugly (just the way I like it).
Because I like it with chicken wire and PVC.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arsenal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To the others about the pressure, I am sure that there is still a good amount of air getting pushed in at speeds,
but is the air getting pushed in at a greater rate than that of air being sucked in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Either way, it's more air getting pushed in than there would have been with the traditional AEM setup. Honestly, due to what I'm getting out of the butt dyno, it has a dramatic effect at high speeds and a modest effect at moderate speeds. Going at low speeds, it doesn't really do anything but look ghetto-fab ugly (just the way I like it).
03-21-2004, 05:58 PM
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you shoul dhave just hack sawed the 1/4 of the bumper off and put in a huge intake. haha, j/k.
but otherwise, good job for making something of a shitty situation.
but otherwise, good job for making something of a shitty situation.
03-21-2004, 06:03 PM
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Re: (dk127)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dk127 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you shoul dhave just hack sawed the 1/4 of the bumper off and put in a huge intake.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The thought had crossed my mind a time or two.
The thought had crossed my mind a time or two.
03-21-2004, 06:34 PM
#22
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Re: Ghettofying the R. Ram Air baby. (Kendall)
.....yeah, Lip's old car had a similar setup - but with a velocity stack horn sticking out of the headlight hole to funnel air in.
03-21-2004, 07:20 PM
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Re: Ghettofying the R. Ram Air baby. (Black R)
It's a cool idea but there are a couple whacks against it:
1.) Heat soak of the aluminum tubing (this is why I like the stock rubber tubing, or something that is at least wrapped.
2.) The location is a low pressure zone, you're effectively sucking air out of the tube.
It's a brilliant idea for trying....if you could move it 12" down (and add a velocity stack) it would kick ***.
1.) Heat soak of the aluminum tubing (this is why I like the stock rubber tubing, or something that is at least wrapped.
2.) The location is a low pressure zone, you're effectively sucking air out of the tube.
It's a brilliant idea for trying....if you could move it 12" down (and add a velocity stack) it would kick ***.
03-21-2004, 07:46 PM
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Re: Ghettofying the R. Ram Air baby. (Tweakmeister)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's a cool idea but there are a couple whacks against it:
1.) Heat soak of the aluminum tubing (this is why I like the stock rubber tubing, or something that is at least wrapped.
2.) The location is a low pressure zone, you're effectively sucking air out of the tube.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Even if there are a couple of whacks against it, it's only on the car for a week until I drive to Charleston so that Chad and I can rip the engine out.
I had every intention of addressing the the heat soak, but again, it's only for a week.
One thing that I fail to realize is that despite a very noticable gain on the good ol' butt dyno, everyone seems to think that it's working against me.
1.) Heat soak of the aluminum tubing (this is why I like the stock rubber tubing, or something that is at least wrapped.
2.) The location is a low pressure zone, you're effectively sucking air out of the tube.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Even if there are a couple of whacks against it, it's only on the car for a week until I drive to Charleston so that Chad and I can rip the engine out.
I had every intention of addressing the the heat soak, but again, it's only for a week.
One thing that I fail to realize is that despite a very noticable gain on the good ol' butt dyno, everyone seems to think that it's working against me.