Tommy_Gunns

Is there any way to adjust the clutch pedal engagement point?

Thanks.


Modified by Tommy_Gunns at 7:48 AM 4/28/2003

Floyd

I think that's more an issue of the release bearing and the pp springs.

Tommy_Gunns

Would upgrading to a solid clutch line help?

Tommy_Gunns

ttt

MrBite

Yes, I'm pretty sure there is a locknut behind the pedal, and then you can thread the pushrod in or out.

[edit] just double checked helms, there is--just loosen the nut and twist the pushrod

Back in Black

Correct. Pain in the rear, I might add.

carblegal

You dont want to preload the pressure plate though.

Floyd

Yeah, it's a total pain in the ***. I've done it to mine. But that doesn't really adjust the position where the clutch grabs. It simply brings the resting height of the pedal up or down. Theoretically, it may seem like the clutch is grabbing lower, but it will still be the same height off the floor.

Does that make sense?

threatcon13

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Floyd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, it's a total pain in the ***. I've done it to mine. But that doesn't really adjust the position where the clutch grabs. It simply brings the resting height of the pedal up or down. Theoretically, it may seem like the clutch is grabbing lower, but it will still be the same height off the floor.

Does that make sense?</TD></TR></TABLE> I know what you are talking about...and yes, it's pretty much pointless to adjust the engagement point.

Tommy_Gunns

This is what I thought. Thanks Floyd for the info.

Too lazy to do it to find out so decided to ask H-T first

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Floyd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, it's a total pain in the ***. I've done it to mine. But that doesn't really adjust the position where the clutch grabs. It simply brings the resting height of the pedal up or down. Theoretically, it may seem like the clutch is grabbing lower, but it will still be the same height off the floor.

Does that make sense?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Eric

I've been playing around with my clutch pedals engagement point over the last few days. I am having problems, though.

What I did was open the bleeder on the slave cylinder(on the trans) and simply let a little fluid out. The clutch engagement point has been made lower to the floor by doing this(really, it has!). I then adjusted the nut/bolt on the pedal to make the pedal sit closer to the floor. This is useful to me as I no longer need to lift my leg as high off the dead pedal to get it on the clutch pedal. It felt incredible that night...

BUT, the next day I hopped into the car to go to work and the engagement point was even lower to the floor and caught me by surprise. So, I'm having problems keeping the engagement point consitent after making the initial change. It could be air in the lines, sure, but I've done this 3 times over the last week and find that hard to believe. I'm going to play around with it tonight and hopefully get it sorted out before I go to the track this weekend.

Any input or questions greatly welcomed!

pcorad

I installed an ACT HDSS clutch kit about 4K miles ago. Ever since, the engagement point has been very high - it engages in the approx last 1.5 of travel.

I had a recent IM with Dirk Starksen President & CTO Advanced Clutch Technology Inc and he mentioned the clutch adjustement described here as the solution. Tech Bulletin #2 from their website (my problem is the opposite of what's described in Tech #2. http://www.advancedclutch.com/V3/mainframe.htm

I found the locking nut on the pushrod, but when I tried to loosen the lock nut, it seemed to simply spin the pushrod (the lock nut never broke free). Since I wasn't sure if I was about to break something, I stopped.

Should that locking nut break free? Or will turning it move the pushrod in/out? Is there really no cure to my high clutch engagement problem?

ACTman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pcorad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I found the locking nut on the pushrod, but when I tried to loosen the lock nut, it seemed to simply spin the pushrod (the lock nut never broke free). Since I wasn't sure if I was about to break something, I stopped.
Should that locking nut break free? Or will turning it move the pushrod in/out? Is there really no cure to my high clutch engagement problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Usually once the nut is loosened it spins free on the rod but not always. You may have to hold the rod with a pair of vice grips or something in order to turn the nut with a wrench.

ACTman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Threatcon13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I know what you are talking about...and yes, it's pretty much pointless to adjust the engagement point.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not exactly. The point is to get adequate disengagement, no preload, and a comfortable pedal feel. Adjusting the pedal too high and you will probably have great disengagment but it feels funny and you risk the chance of preload. If it is too low, you may not get enough disengagment and damage syncos in the trans. The pedal height will not change (that's a different adjustment). The pedal has it's own return spring that returns it all the way up. When you push the pedal first the pedal linkage will take up free play between the master cylinder rod and the piston. This free play can be adjusted as discussed in other posts. If the rod makes contact earlier then the piston will begin to pump fluid earlier in the pedal's stroke and pump more fluid overall.

arren123

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ACTman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Usually once the nut is loosened it spins free on the rod but not always. You may have to hold the rod with a pair of vice grips or something in order to turn the nut with a wrench.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you.. I asked something like that months ago, but never had a reply. The nut is a regular lefty-loosy, righty-tighty deal, right?

ACTman

Yes, it should be counterclockwise to loosen it away from the arm that it locks against.

AamirCWITR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ACTman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The point is to get adequate disengagement, no preload, and a comfortable pedal feel. </TD></TR></TABLE>


What is Pre-load ? And can you tell when your risking damage to your synchros by having your clutch grab too low to the floor?

Smitdog

Adjusted my push-rod many times when I was trying to use the Exedy Organic Clutch. Got tired of the problems and ordered myself a ACT XT-SS and have nothing but GREAT things to say about ACT and its products!!

ACTman

Wow, thanks! Honestly though, I haven't heard of or seen a lot of problems with Exedy.

ACTman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AamirCWITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is Pre-load ? And can you tell when your risking damage to your synchros by having your clutch grab too low to the floor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Preload is basically the lack of freeplay on the rod. It's when the rod actually puts pressure on the piston when the pedal is all the way up and doesn't allow the piston to come all the way back in the clutch master cylinder. When the piston is all the way back a port to the resevoir normally opens up to allow the hydraulics to self adjust.

If the clutch grabs too low then the clutch may not disengage completely. You will first notice this when you try to shift quickly and the transmission won't let you or grinds. If you adjust the clutch engagement point higher and it shifts better, then it was too low. If adjusting the clutch doesn't make a difference and it still grinds, you probably have bad syncros already.

pcorad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pcorad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I found the locking nut on the pushrod, but when I tried to loosen the lock nut, it seemed to simply spin the pushrod (the lock nut never broke free). Since I wasn't sure if I was about to break something, I stopped.

Should that locking nut break free? Or will turning it move the pushrod in/out? Is there really no cure to my high clutch engagement problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

So I finally wiggled my way under the dashboard to do this adjustment. I moved the pushrod out from the cylinder by about 3/4". There is a noticable difference in the engagement point - it engages lower to the floor (makes it a whole lot easier to match revs on downshifts). I did manage to scratch the pushrod a bit with the vice grips I used to hold it in place while backing off the locking nut. Will this cause me some grief?

Ryan_C

Thanks for asking this question.... I tried to get these answers while at the Expo, and mostly everyone came to the conclusion to just not mess with it. I have a Toda Clutch/Flywheel combo. And the clutch I believe is the Gen. 2.

Now, I may climb under there and give it a look and see what happens.

Thanks everyone.

StyleTEG

had the same problem, lock nut wouldn't loosen.

Used vice grips, solved that problem. I also have some marks on the rod, but havn't noticed any problems thus far so I figure its ok.