fuck honda-tech

I seem to have a problem , my car was driving fine with freshly changed oil, one day i was hitting vtec and right before i feel a huge lag and the car kinda cuts off power way before redline. I was really nervous that there was no oil so i took checked out the dipstick and according to the reading it was dry?wtf. I put in 2 quarts of mobil one and warmed it up drove nice for a couple miles then vtec it. Everything was working smoothly. The next day I took it to my mechanic and said wheres the oil that i paid for, the car was about to explode. He said he changed the oil but lets have a look. He lifted the car up and drained the oil and 4-5 quarts came out i seen it with my own eyes . He was concerned that the oil was very black though, so i watched him give me a free oil change and complementary filter. Back again a week later I drive out to l.a and on the way back my car is tripping out again . the Dip stick reads no oil .
Basically the mechanic said he thinks I have the wrong dipstick.
My concerns are why isnt vtec engaging properly .
I have itr cams and he said that he tuned them rich, my car blows smoke out of the exhaust like a damn dust buster. Also I have recently fixed bent exhaust valves. Can someone help me ??? Whats going on ??? My timing is also advanced 18 deg. if that matters. THanks in advance sorry it is so long

NeoGSR

who's your mechanic? does he know what he's doing? dipstick not the right one??? do a compression/leak-down test and see what your numbers are....that'll tell you if it's rings or valves....sounds like your burning oil and running it low so that you're not getting enough oil pressure....

fuck honda-tech

would this also cause the car not to run to its full potential ?

Chris

VTEC engages when certain conditions are met:

Engine TEMP
Oil Pressure (no oil pressure, no VTEC)
Throttle position (maybe??)

VTEC is engaged by a solenoid that diverts ENGINE OIL into a passage that moves the CAMS over onto the VTEC lobes.

I dont know if this would cause these problems, but I would hope that a CEL (Check Engine Light) would come on.

The HamsterBall

Your mechanic's a dumbass...
This is what happens at 76 when they let the new trainee do oil changes
(i've seen **** like this when i used to work there. not on my part though)

From now on, do oil changes yourself

Sorry about your trouble.

fuck honda-tech

i have a jdm clust so no check engine light ... um he changed the oil twice and the same thing happened

deepgreengsr

try a thicker oil and if you are useing syn try dino oil.

fuck honda-tech

everything was fine when i have mobil one

deepgreengsr

cus mobile 1 is the ****. Use it every day.

NeoGSR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deepgreengsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cus mobile 1 is the ****. Use it every day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

every day?? that's gotta suck......

Devlins 91LS

First of all, its vtec, not v-tec or vtech or any other retarded spellings.

I'm assuming that you're not hitting vtec at all, even after the car has come up to operating temperature.

If you let the engine warm up (or warm it up yourself quickly ) to normal operating temperature (when the temp gauge is about 1/4-1/2 up) and you go past the vtec engagement point, and it DOESN'T engage, you'll throw a cel.

Even if your cel doesn't light up on your dash, (for some god forsaken reason) your ecu will still show it.

LODOSS

I did'nt want to log on to write this post but ... its pretty stupid... first of all when you car is short of about 1 quirt your dipstick will read almost empty.. so when you filled it up with 2 quarts you actaully put in a total of 5 ni there that is why when he drained it there is so much. Yes most people think dipstick is very low it means it is completely dry.. but no.. dipstick only reads about 1.5 quarts.

so your problem is you either have a leak somewhere. oil pan, drain plug, maybe some gasket or worse scenarior head gasket or really bad rings. so check into this look around to find leaks. if you don't find any on the outside then it is probably the inside. burning oil happens on older motor all the time, but the rate at which it burns/leaks will determin how bad of a shape your car is in and of course the more you burn the less power you have. so next time when u see your dipstick reading none.. fill a quart in it and see if it filled it up.

patdemps

1.) do a leakdown test
2.) find a new mechanic
3.) make sure everything that was recently done to your car was correctly installed and everything else was done correctly.
4.) get your car tuned

96dc2

I'm just curious about your sig...

"wtb: itr auto tranny with 4.7 d1 and 4.9 d2 final drive "

NeoGSR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Devlins 91LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First of all, its vtec, not v-tec or vtech or any other retarded spellings.

I'm assuming that you're not hitting vtec at all, even after the car has come up to operating temperature.

If you let the engine warm up (or warm it up yourself quickly ) to normal operating temperature (when the temp gauge is about 1/4-1/2 up) and you go past the vtec engagement point, and it DOESN'T engage, you'll throw a cel.

Even if your cel doesn't light up on your dash, (for some god forsaken reason) your ecu will still show it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no one used the incorrect "spelling" except for your dumb ***....

also "warm it yourself quickly" is also dumb because warming your car up quickly by stomping on it is bad...again.......

If the CEL fails to come on it's because he's got a jdm cluster...and.....