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Haven't been active on here since my last build the EGK-T, but i'm hoping i can showcase what i've been up to the last 8 months. While i do have almost 300 pics/vids of the build process on my Instagram highlights >Frank_Vleming< i haven't seen any kswap builds in this section let alone turbo Ks. While this is missing some parts in the earlier stages of the build, it's the NOW stuff that is truly unique i work on the car several times a week and the posts will be more detailed as you can see towards the end, but for the technical and super detailed pics/vids check out my Insta. I've included a "mod list for those who may be looking to make similar power/build.
K24a2 block
K20z3 head
Precision-Works 88A DC/EG swap mounts
Kpro v4
Ktuned Electric water pump kit
Acuity TPS
Ktuned 4bar map sensor
Ktuned 90mm intake manifold, Triple chrome-plated.
Ktuned 90mm throttle body w/HD clamp adapter
Ktuned K20Z3/K24 manifold adapter
Ktuned throttle cable
ktuned thermal gasket
Ktuned oil feed adapter
SpeedFactory 3-port boost solenoid
Prayoonto AWD/FWD top mount manifold w/60 gate
Ktuned straight upper coolant housing w/filler -16AN
Vibrant 4" hood exit w/slash cut
Vibrant wastegate 2.5" hood exit w/slash cut
Sheepey-built 800hp vertical flow street-series intercooler
Vibrant intercooler piping
Vibrant oil feed/drain lines
Vibrant 3.5"/2.5" HD clamps
Precsion 6266 T4 JB .81 A/R w/HD clamp compressor housing
Tial v60 15psi spring
KLM-fab tucked rad + fans
Ktuned tucked engine harness w/integrted power wire & daisy starter wire, bosh EV-14 plugs soldered on.
Ktuned EG/DC K-swap harness
TiAL Q BOV
Proper Fab Super Shooter coolant overflow
Proper Fab catch can
Bunged/shaved Valve cover
Fuel system
Vibrant EFI to -6AN feed/return set up(hanger to rail)
Walbro 450
ATL wire bulkhead fitting
Ktuned fuel pressure regulator
Ktuned fuel rail
Injector Dynamics 1050x
Ktuned -8AN high-flow inline fuel filter
Suspension:
Skunk2 rear camber kit
BWR raw Billet LCAs
March 26th, 2019: I'm skimming Kijiji, getting bored of my Euro R TSX looking for a good old cable-throttle car. I see a completely gutted and just barley rolling black 98 Rs shell that claims to be rust free. That's a big deal here in Central Ontario, Canada, messaged the guy and saw it bright and early 8am on a wednesday. Needless to say i bought it for a cool $900, with the amount of attention the ad was getting i wasn't going to turn it down.
I'm a student at this time so i have alot of free time, the next day i decide i'm going to get a K24 and put a k20 head on it and slap a 6266 to it. Hit up JDMaddiction and placed an order for a bunch of parts.
Car still needed a front end, JDM fronts are what make these cars timeless IMO. Called up Japan direct JDM in Mississauga and picked up a non-hid front end.
I know center-feeds are the new hotness for Ks right now but just something about the side feeds that looks awesome. Found a guy in waterloo seeing a used 90mm ktuned manifold that just so happened to be triple chrome plated.by Cambridge Chrome. Also stopped by JDM addicion and picked up some parts.
Picked up a k24a2 engine and k20z3 head in the same day along with a RSX base 5 speed with a z3 LSD that OGX-Race put together for me. Cleaned them all up and used some engine paint. Side winter is T4 flanged with a little 44 Tial gate which was a BIG mistake. Engine is 100% stock only used a Type S oil pump so i didn't have as much rotational mass and could rev higher. Turbo is a JB 6266 T4 with 3 5/8" discharge. Slapped all the parts on for a pic.
I do ALL my own fab and welding, picked up a slew of piping and the Sheepey "street series" vertical flow 800hp intercooler and a blue Tial BOV
KLM tucked rad, Ktuned electric water pump, Tial MVR, ID 1050X, -6an feed/return lines all installed and the hood exits fabbed up. 3.5" and 1.75".
Dyno day, decided to take the car to get tuned by Ralph at Pat's dyno. This is where i regretted my ENTIRE hotside, we have the wastegate off in this pic to inspect why it just shot up to 24lbs with a 10.15 spring inside
635-WHP from a stock k24/20 24lbs at under 7.1 RPM hitting boost cut, not what we planned but was incredible that the car made this without breaking a sweat.
Was given an ultimatum,add a 2nd Tial MVR, switch to a 60mm gated sidewinder OR get an entirely NEW MANIFOLD that wasn't a sidewinder. In the mean time i picked up a Ktuned tucked harness, race spec cables that got melted on dyno day.
Had too many fitmeant issues with the side winter, main one being my exhaust was melting through the ktuned kevlar sleeve that supposed to protect the cables along with other small things. I told Melo at JDMAddiction i wanted the Prayoonto AWD/FWD manifold. This was right around WCF not long ago, he picked it up for me while he was there and early November i had it. Fitmeant is TIGHT! the valve cover NEEDS to be removed in order to get that horn for the wastegate to clear and if you have any studs left on the fire wall in that area they need to be removed, along with the lines on the rack that were originally for the P/S need to be "massaged" to clear the #2 runner. Said go big or go home, Tial v60 w/15.1PSI spring, 4" hood exit and a 2.5" for the wastegate exit. Modded the intercooler piping and added an HD clamp to the compressor housing. Added a Proper fab coolant overflow on the driver side and a Proper fab catch can on the passenger side.
Breather port shaved and 2 -10 bungs welded on the front. Cover goes of to RoRO designs on the 6th to get powder coated OEM wrinkle black with brushed lettering.
This was a few weeks ago, all the tar has been scraped up, have since washed the glue/tar stain with BPC and removed the center arm rest, steering wheel arm bad and wiper stock seeing as it hasn't had wipers in several months. The battery is being switched to an XS power S375 AGM and will be mounted up front in the passenger fender well. Also starting on the suspension, picked up a Blox(lol) rear camber kit and some generic LCA for pennies on boxing day.
Last edited by B_Swapped93; 12-31-2019 at 04:15 AM.
Can a stock K24/K20 engine like that make 635whp reliably?
Great build so far, not many serious engine builds on these cars anymore. Followed you on IG, I love builds like this.
Thanks man! There's still all out drag cars/AWD stuff or mild street/show builds but the hardcore/ratchet "Street car" is kinda fading it feels like. As for is 635whp on a stock tsx block safe or reliable.. no. The k20 block there's a fair share of guys running around making 600whp stock even taking it to the track. But the k24a2 which is the most "performance oriented" k24 still isn't really to be trusted for too long at the 600hp range afaik it's got skinnier(weaker) rods vs the k20a2/z3/z1. The type S oil pump set up will allow you to safely(more or less) rev up to 7.8-8K which is part of why i did it along with losing some rotational mass. The car will be going back to be tuned by Ralph in mid/late march going to ask him to leave it at 580/600whp as i plan to CSS the block aim for around 800+whp in late 2020
Still waiting on my battery and fittings from JDMaddiction, VC gets sent off to RoRo on Monday. In the meantime i got some new ball joints for the car as the old boots got destroyed by the pickle fork when i had to separate them to get the shafts in. Ordered some Maxx-brakes while i was at it, which may strike some as odd but i've had these before and loved them even if they are "budget pads". Next mod will be the steering wheel/quick release set up with a proper horn
Nothing special just generic budget ball joints went in without a problem. Normally i'd use OEM Honda parts but i really don't need them to last for 10 yrs from now, despite being budget they fit just as good as the OEM ones i took out.
My reasoning for choosing these over the Hawk HP+ that i used to hold in very high praise is this: I had a cl9 TSX with 4 piston TL brembos and used Hawk HP+ major let down, switch back to stock calipers when i sold it with Maxx brakes ans the bite was amazing for a budget stock pad. Put them on my FIT too and even crazier bite. Hoping to feel the same with the integra, should be able to lock up the brakes even with some big stick tires.
Got a call that my parts were in, ended up going with the XS s545 as it was in stock and is technically lighter. Ended up picking up a short hub adapter while i was at it, fittings are for the VC when it comes back. Going to pick a steering wheel then get it along with the quick release mid month.
Leaning towadrs a Vertex steering wheel or Personal. Either way made sure the horn was hooked up which is super important for a street roll racer.
Spent all of 8$ on the raw stock to make it, it doesn't look pretty due to being welded up with fluxcore. Hole at the top has a welded nut behind it to allow for the top hold bracket to secured.
Only change that needs to be made is a cover for the + clamp as it's really close to the rad support and if taken off too fast will ARC between the 2 which has happened already. Going to charge it up and see if it'll crank the car over. Ditched the clock will be ditching the AEM wideband too, as the car gets tuned of the built-in one(i have two o2s in my hod exit). Still need to see if i can get rid of the hatch actuator as the switch is gone.
Did some thinking, going to leave the VC the same colour it is now, just going to sand it and hit it with the same paint i used on the engine. Not sure black would be a proper fit in the bay i'm so used to the OEM silver that kinda matches the engine.
paint
. Bumper went back on, battery can be removed and disconnected with it on which is nice. Charges SUPER fast, supposed to be +6*C here on friday so i'll see how well it starts the car. May end up shortening the passenger side catch can line looks a bit long in the pics. Going to order the plug tube seals from honda tomorrow so i can get the VC on and secured again. Going to flush it in some parts cleaner to get the last shavings out. Next on the list is a generic NRG steering wheel and the quick release hub along with the front camber kit.
VC is back on with all it's hardware, have no plans to do cosmetics yet. Need a 3rd 45* off the top bung of the catch can. The 90 works, yes but i hate how it looks.
Removed the stock brass fitting that comes with the turbo and put a 1/8NPT to -4AN fitting coupled with a 150* hose brb fitting for a clean look. House is held in place with vibrant padded hose clamps then down to the T for the boost solenoid.
Went a head and ordered the Ktuned front "camber kit", generic 320mm suede flat NRG wheel and black quick release. As for next, more than likely some coils so the car isn't on jack stands. Also debating some EK9 recaros(EK rails) but at about 60lbs per seat i'm iffy.
All my parts came in so i took a trip down to the city to get them, ended up with a 350mm deep dish steering wheel it's actually the same style i had on my first integra in 2013 lol. Got a free SIX13RACING coil pack cover which is his in-house brand manifold and other misc marts. Going to get it all installed tomorrow night and get the integra on the ground as i may be getting a new daily and need the "working bay" side of the garage free.
I've had the K1s on my TSX and likes them, they had damping as far as i can tell these don't which contradicts their advertising but don't quote me on that i didn't fully open the box i'll expand om that tomorrow. Other than that the finish is great and what you'd expect from a Ktuned product. same with the upeer control arms, had them on my TSX and liked the Since ktuned is a few mins from JDMaddiction here in Toronto we get all their stuff for a super good price so whenever possible i buy Ktuned. Next on the mod list is a seat(s) i'd love some nice red recaro seats but the 55lbs each is turning me off as the stock seats are about 30ish lbs from what i hear. I can probably use the scale at work and bring one in to weight it yesterday we'll see. I like to be able to slide and recline seats as i change it sometimes.
Nice! is this another turbo K24 project I know you had another one..
I started this integra build April 2019 from absolute scratch, i did however have a build called the EGK which i kinda had the similar look but was a k20 not a k24/20 it never got completed.
If anyone remembers this build from 2017 you'll see just how much more knowledge and skill i've aquired since. I like to remind myself, as i look at it and see SO MUCH WRONG but it taught my alot about kswaping.
While the battery and Kpro i had already the kpro lives in my room for the winter as i don't trust it out in the garage. And the car needed to be started and ran a bit.
Bad pic but got them on can go about 3/4 lower but this is pretty low as you see later on. Rears went on nice just like the front.
Changed the upper fitting to a 45* off the catch can for a cleaner look. the 90* was just awkward. Also got the coil pack cover on to hid the harness made a nice difference.
Simple NRG wheel set up, sits rather close but i had this exact set up in my first car and liked it.
Don't know if i have a before pic somewhere but night and day difference, rims are 05 EM2 afaik with 205/50/15 the coils can go about 3/4 of an inch lower. You could also use the MPC drop forks and drop LCAs if you want to slam it. The car will need to be raised to get on the U-haul trailer for the retune tho.
If you're wondering why i got these, that little battery can't crank the car over at 0*C from dead cold... it will re start it once it's warmed up and probably will be fine in the summer and spring but it's a huge pain to take it out with the bumper on. Going to mount these right around where the old B series intake went to the bumper.
Today: Jan 11 2020. Hit up my boy Singhbuilt in Mississauga about a set of ITR recaros he was going to post. Originally i was told they had EK rails thus i'd have to re drill that inner rear rail, and didn't jump on them. When i got there they turned out to be ITR rails that had been drilled for EK. Had already talked the price down on the assumption the rails weren't for my car so it worked well. Going to clean them as they were kept in a storage unit.
What's next? this build is actually almost over unless i go thorough with my plan to CSS and aim for 8-850whp in 2021 or go AWD i'm still thinking as i'm currently $32K CAD deep in this car. Short term tho i'm going to get 4pt harness for my seat and when it's closer to re-tune time i'll do the wheels and tires
Last edited by B_Swapped93; 01-11-2020 at 05:54 PM.
While it would be cool, the weight gain would be high even with the FCS tubular stuff, along with having to settle for no viscus coupler and pinned clutch packs plus chopping the driveshaft seems like a pain. For a 1/2 mile roll racer i just can't see the benefit . if i did it, it would be for the cool factor and experience of doing it and to hurt some feeling with street dig races.
While they weren't too dirty, they did need to be washed i don't have the after pics yet as they're still drying and may get a 2nd round of cleaning but so far they look mint. They probably look kinda washed out in the pic but as they've been drying the red has become much deeper and more uniform. I will post the final pic once they're fully dry/cleaned. I wetted them down with HOT water and scrubbed a bit then used "dark clothes" woolite mixed with water(70% water 30% woolite) and continued to scrub with the cloth and a veggie cleaning brush.
Remote jumpers installed all you do is open up your existing terminal clamps(NEG/POS) and add a 8GA(or bigger) wire with a eyelet to the back of the remote lugs. They look close but i've had large jumpers on them and they can easily be used, very happy with this mod as i can just leave the battery in the fender and charge it via these too.
While it would be cool, the weight gain would be high even with the FCS tubular stuff, along with having to settle for no viscus coupler and pinned clutch packs plus chopping the driveshaft seems like a pain. For a 1/2 mile roll racer i just can't see the benefit . if i did it, it would be for the cool factor and experience of doing it and to hurt some feeling with street dig races.
While they weren't too dirty, they did need to be washed i don't have the after pics yet as they're still drying and may get a 2nd round of cleaning but so far they look mint. They probably look kinda washed out in the pic but as they've been drying the red has become much deeper and more uniform. I will post the final pic once they're fully dry/cleaned. I wetted them down with HOT water and scrubbed a bit then used "dark clothes" woolite mixed with water(70% water 30% woolite) and continued to scrub with the cloth and a veggie cleaning brush.
Remote jumpers installed all you do is open up your existing terminal clamps(NEG/POS) and add a 8GA(or bigger) wire with a eyelet to the back of the remote lugs. They look close but i've had large jumpers on them and they can easily be used, very happy with this mod as i can just leave the battery in the fender and charge it via these too.
I see your point on the AWD,
I used some stuff from the .99 cents store called Totally Awesome it works pretty good, I might have to try that stuff you have on my passenger Recaro, its still in good condition as really no one sits in it, I do have plans to buy another seat cover for it because it has really kept my driver seat looking new and iv had it on since 09"!
I used Woolite on my ITR Recaros to get them ready to sell and they looked incredible afterwards, it did a great job of removing the nasty black grease stains that the dipshit tow truck driver left on them.
I'm amazed you found a set without the passenger bolster being all jacked up, I had to order a new bolster foam from some shop in the UK since mine was basically flat by the time they made their way over from Japan and into my hands.
I used some stuff from the .99 cents store called Totally Awesome it works pretty good, I might have to try that stuff you have on my passenger Recaro, its still in good condition as really no one sits in it, I do have plans to buy another seat cover for it because it has really kept my driver seat looking new and iv had it on since 09"!
This dark woolite has been amazing, they've been dry for abit but went out last night and didn't get a chance to post the round 1 dry pics. just finished giving them a 2nd cleaning hoping to have some pics to post Thursday around lunch.
Originally Posted by MotorMouth93
I used Woolite on my ITR Recaros to get them ready to sell and they looked incredible afterwards, it did a great job of removing the nasty black grease stains that the dipshit tow truck driver left on them.
I'm amazed you found a set without the passenger bolster being all jacked up, I had to order a new bolster foam from some shop in the UK since mine was basically flat by the time they made their way over from Japan and into my hands.
I was very happy with the pick up they were from some EK9 rep show car and had been sitting in a storage unit for several months getting dirty. I've seen sets in worse shape sell for the same amount here, technically these weren't for sale but i convinced my friend to sell them to me.
Driver's seat, only "flaw" if you could call it that.. is the ripple in the fabric of the inner bolster witch might be able to be removed with a steam cleaner.
Passenger side, only flaw would be 2 stitches that came loose in the seat portion right at the front and a 3 little patches where the alcentara has worn on the inner upper bolster.
Gave the backs and side a good scrub on round 2 cleaning and i'm very happy with how it came out, pictures don't show how deep a red they actually turned out to be.
What's next: Probably going to sell these DC2 recaros... they've turned out too nice to be used on this build. I'll more than likely be ordering the Kirkey 55 series pro street drag and using the buddy club super low rails.
Spent the last few days re search like crazy weather to run a 15x7 or x8... the x7 won in the form of a Konig Dial In. Here's the test fit pictures: Only real things left for this car would be the Drift spec 2 takata harness and some 205/50 tires. 15X7 +35, they do look small but coupled with a 205/50 R888R or rival 1.5s i think they'll fill out well.
Also tested the rear. As you can see i also picked up an OEM Honda ITR wing which really added to the overall look of the car IMO.
Not bad imo, the 15x7 RPF1 is 9.8lbs and about $1.1-1.3K CAD.
Might add a 3/5mm spacer but i don't think i'll need to so long as i have a flat sidewall it should be just the look i'm after.
Did some pricing, while the R88R would be nice i just cant see the need for a car that's meant for 1/2 mile roll racing and some hwy rollers. Figure with BBG and already rolling they will hook ok.
For anyone wondering the weight they're 19.11 lbs so close to double the rim wight but such is the nature of this type of tire.
As for what's next: got a bit more tar glue on the inside that i've got to clean up then it's just a waiting game till the rds are dry enough so i can trailer to get re-tuned by Ralph. Last part i have to actuality purchase if a 4pt harness and "maybe" a boost gauge.
The seats came out real nice! how did you go about it when cleaning them/ did you soak them with the spray bottle with the woolite and then scrub them down with a soaked rag in the woolite?
The paint looks nice in the rear! did you do paint correction on the car?
The seats came out real nice! how did you go about it when cleaning them/ did you soak them with the spray bottle with the woolite and then scrub them down with a soaked rag in the woolite?
The paint looks nice in the rear! did you do paint correction on the car?
Wetted them down with warm water then used the spray bottle of woolite, and used the cloth/veggie brush on the freshly sprayed seat. Yah i cut and polished it back in october, it's gotten dirty again but the paint sealant does a good job hiding all the dust.
205/50 AR-1 on a 15x7 rim.
Could've used a x7.5 for an even more flush sidewall as even these buldge on a x7
Got myself a Braum harness, the 3" straps are a little too much as they cut into my neck, orginally wanted to get the Takata DS2 witch is easier to deal with.
5th point anchor went into the seat mount ridge, and the right side point went into the exhaust tunnel.
Didn't get to take proper pics with the wheels on due to the temperature warning on them, only pic i got.
Nothing too big has been happening with the car, put the seats in and been doing more wiring tucking just waiting till it goes back for it's re-tune next month. Bought some misc items and made a big purchase of an Anti-Gravity ATX20-HD lithium Ion. My only complaint is that they sit higher than stock, leaving me like 2 maybe 3 inches of head room.
Ktuned dip stick v2, ktuned oil cap and the ktuned rad cap. I know the VC should be painted but can't think of a colour that would suit it as most of the engine bay is "aluminum" or anodized black. may grab some downstar spikes at a later date.
Fuel feed and return along with the harness and clutch line fits nicely underneath the water housing one upside about the z3/k24 style head i like.
Hoping this is the last big part purchase i have to do for some time now. The last part i really want is the tracklife carbon kevlar fender cut outs. Had to get the lithium charger as well which jumped the price up, but the battery is said to weigh 5lbs and have 900 cranking amps. Size wise it's very close to the one i'm getting rod of now so a little bit of modding to my tray will be required but i like fab and welding.
Battery came in today along with it's charger, was lucky enough that it's just a few mm smaller than the outgoing AGM, thus fits prefect in the existing battery holder. Was amazed that this is 5lbs lighter than the XS AGM but has almost 4x!! the cranking amps yet is the same size. Price wise it was over double and if you factor in the charger it was 3x the price of the existing AGM. But having a car that wouldn't start was beyond annoying i bought their XP-3 micro a while back and has started the car probably 11+ times! on it's original charger.
Anti-gravity suggested this charger/tester, it's connect and forget which is nice.
Re-used my SAE terminals from the XS AGM as the ones from Anti-gravity were back ordered and i didn't want to wait further. Was very happy to have it fit and not need to be modified.
Will be contacting Ralph later this week to set up a tune date, as you may or may not know the car used to have a sidewinder w/44 gate and creeped to 24-lbs hitting boost cut. Along with a faulty ktuned harness that wasn't triggering the alternator voltage regulator to engage thus not producing 14v but rather 11.5 lol. I know the car is capable of well over 635whp with it's current mods the limiting factor is the 100% stock k24/20. I'll be asking for it to be left at 22lbs roughly making 600whp. As i plan to pull the car apart and CSS the block and aim for 840whp
No, that ended September 21si last yr, I foolishly bought a battery with 240 cranking amps and no CCA rating even. The k24 in a big engine and no way that would have started it reliability even in the summer.
12-30-2019, 05:57 PM
My turbo K24/20 build
