BitterTrigger

So I have a fresh b18c1 longblock put together, with all new parts on it, and all oem. I'm trying to set my timing belt on, and i got my cams lined up with the marks matching up and the crank pulley with the white dot on the timing mark. When I go to tension the belt it will take up the slack on the exhaust side and I'll tighten the bolt spin it around to bring back around to check the timing.

When I come back around the marks on the cams don't match up it's close but off and i have to go past about 5 degree's on the crank to get the cams to line up. I tried numerous times to get it to be perfect but I can't get it for the life of me. Does everything need to be super perfect or can i adjust this by the ignition timing?

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

Line everything to TDC then install the belt. Crank, tensioner, waterpump, exhaust cam then intake cam. Once you get the belt on tighten down the tensioner. Turn the crank counter clockwise two or three times to make sure everything spins freely and then line it back up to TDC. Make sure everything is still at TDC, loosen the tensioner and turn the motor 3 teeth and tighten down the tensioner to 40ft lbs.

BitterTrigger

that's what I'm donig Moua, but the timing is always off when i tension the belt.

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

Has the head or block been milled or decked? I was having the same issue before, make sure the crank pulley key has no play at all.

FF for Life

Make sure everthing is in-time to start, install the t-belt begining on the top of the intake cam, then to the exhaust cam, then to the crank, removing as much slack as you can without moving either camshaft or crank pulley then (skipping the tensioner) to the water pump, the belt should not be on the tensioner yet, just kind of pulled infont of it...make sure you have no slack at all on any part of the belt except at the tensioner (where the belt is not yet on). Make sure your tensioner is loose, then pull the tensioner enough until you can slip the belt on. Double check there is no slack on the front of the timing belt (between the exhaust cam and crank pulley) and between the two cam gears on top.
Install your crank pulley with pulley allignment key and bolt (tighten crank pulley bolt finger tight) and rotate the engine COUNTER-clockwise 3 teeth turning the crank pulley by hand (looking at the movement of the cams) and then tighten the tension to 40 ft.lbs. (rotating is easyest done without spark plugs installed. Now rotate the crankshaft pulley counter-clockwise until your camshafts have made ONE full rotation ( keep in mind your crank will spin twice) slowly stopping when the two timing marks line up on the cams line up and the "up" arrows on the cams are obviously...pointing up, remove your crank pulley, and check that the pointer mark on the oil pump housing and dot on the timing belt crank pulley line up.

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

The correct procedure is what I have posted. The crank is always the first thing the belt should go on.

BitterTrigger

I measured the block and it has been decked about .010 the head was resurfaced so about .003 was taken off.

BitterTrigger

still trying to get it to line up -.- it's always half a tooth off on the exhaust side when the crank goes TDC

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

How does your crank pulley key seat look like? Any damage to it?

lolv8s

when you say turn the motor three teeth, do you mean counter clockwise? Or clockwise? And when you say teeth you mean cam gear teeth right?

thewrai6th

counter clockwise, otherwise your belt will be loose.

tamboo

get the cam lock tool, totally worth it to make life easier:

For Honda Acura B Series Engine Cam Gear Lock Timing Belt Installation Tool Blue

will send you a link to shop manual,
cant post it here or it's a virtual paddlin.

lolv8s

ok thanks but how can you count the teeth if you loosen the tensioner?

lolv8s

ok thanks, ordered. I used the one from O’reilys or Vatozone idk which I forget but it’s one of those free rentable tools. The one I ordered looks a lot better.

lolv8s

I’m just turning the cam gears back three teeth right?

lolv8s

I ended up with this m. What do you think? I just got everything tdc and put the belt on. I didn’t need that gear stabilizer? What am I doing wrong?

lolv8s

qfast817

Are you using a gsr timing belt by chance? Ls has 125 teeth vs the 126 on the gsr. I've had a friend get the wrong belt and we had the same problem.

lolv8s

I had the GSR belt at first and it was loose somewhat. I counted 19 teeth on my water pump and there was even “19T” printed on it. Then I got the LS belt and it fits right. I’m just trying to get everything straight/ correct before I try to turn key. This is something I’m having trouble understanding honestly.

qfast817

I just re-read the first post, are you using a gsr short block and a ls head? In the pics that's a non vtec head.

lolv8s

GSR oil pump. Supposed to be a GSR water pump but I counted the teeth and there are 19. B18A1 Block and head. I switched to an LS belt and it fits right. GSR was too loose.

qfast817

Ok if you still have a problem you can turn the belt till its tdc and see how much it's off, take the belt off and rest the crank then the cams off set them by what was off by, turn 3 teeth tighten up the tensioner turn it over till on tdc it should pick up that slack.