B_Swapped93

It's +10ish with high wind as far as outside temp goes, however my teg won't get to operating temp. The gauge never moves...the gauge is fine I've let it idle and get to temp but as soon as a drive it goes down. Here's the details:skunk2 full aluminium rad mishimoto thermostat(opens at 68*C vs OEM 78*C) bwr rad hoses and random walmart coolant as always. This is really annoying my s300 is being fixed so i can't see what's going on with my sensors etc. No vtec so I 100% know it's not the gauge ECT is new also I have the front of my bumper cut out if that matters the idea was for better cooling but I think I've overkilled it my OEM t-stat doesn't help with the issue either it's not even a year old.

95accordCE6

Did you properly bleed the cooling system after the radiator/tstat replacement? Improper coolant mix or an air bubble or a leak/loss of pressure can prevent the car from warming up properly. Does the heat work?

B_Swapped93

kinda will have another go at bleeding it when I'm home. Also forgot to add the car has no heater core/I shortened the hoses (with proper ones).

B_Swapped93

bump

TheRealTegger

10 degrees Celsius is 50 degrees in the measurement a civilized man would use.

You state that you have both a Mishimoto thermostat and an OEM thermostat. It can't be both of course, so which is it?

If the engine is overcooling, then the thermostat is either the wrong rating, or is stuck open.

B_Swapped93

it does this **** with both of them.

TheRealTegger

Then both are sticking open. Or you've got some other issue going on.

B_Swapped93

I highly doubt they are both bad especially the mishimoto one. anyone else ?

TypeRfit

iTrader: (6)

You either have a bubble or sticking thermostat. I had this issue with my CTR awhile back, the only way I could fix the issue is to jack the front of the car up when I was bleeding it. You can always test the thermostats my putting them in water on the stove and boil the water, if it opens it good and it's a bleeding issue.

95accordCE6

I'm kind of at a loss here if everything was bled right, unless the mishi tstats temp is too low (allows coolant to exit engine before it's warm) as well as the oe test at being stuck open (that'd be horrible luck). I'm just throwing things out there now...I'm guessing you upgraded the rad and tstat at the same time, maybe it's possible the oe tstat was stuck open the whole time but it wasn't noticeable with the cooling rate of the stock radiator, and with the skunk2 there's better airflow and coolant passages etc so it cools way faster once you start driving. Honestly I'd find a cheap standard tsat and try that, I could be wrong of course but thats my thought

TheRealTegger

If your engine is overcooling, then fluid is flowing through the rad when it's not supposed to. Flow through the rad is controlled by the thermostat.

Are you certain the engine is in fact overcooling? How is the heater output? Buy an infrared thermometer (cheap). Drive the car for a half-hour minimum, or until the upper rad hose gets hot. Point the IR thermometer at the head right where the outlet is for the rad hose. For a 78C thermostat and 13lb rad cap, you should have a reading of about 205F.

If you're running a 68C thermostat (why??), you may see something lower than 205, but I would think no less than 190F.

B_Swapped93

I'm going to jack it up and give that a go there's no heater I removed all that and shortened the coolant hoses at the back with vibrant ones(made for coolant). the 68c one is for the car's time attack events at CSCS I have a random part source one in now my s300 should be fixed this week so i'll use that and see what temps I'm at. Also the car is extremely hard to start in the cold it misfires and stalls and sounds like is has VTEC killers in it.

B_Swapped93

bump...still +10-14c here.

halfakneegrow

try bleeding it again but try to get one of these

B_Swapped93

That's what I used and kept squishing the rad hoses thing is last year with the stock rad I could go with out bleeding it or just doing it for 5 mins. the car starts up fine now a days I fixed that, the gas tank is being replaced so it'll be a bit before I can test it out again.

B_Swapped93

bump//

TheRealTegger

Are you certain the engine is in fact overcooling? Buy an infrared thermometer (cheap). Drive the car for a half-hour minimum, or until the upper rad hose gets hot. Point the IR thermometer at the head right where the outlet is for the rad hose. For a 78C thermostat and 13lb rad cap, you should have a reading of about 205F.

If you're running a 68C thermostat, you may see something lower than 205 but, I would think, no less than 190F.

B_Swapped93

**** still won't stay hot...if I let it sit for 10 mins or so it will but as soon as a start driving it starts to cool down and no VTEC. Running a part store t-start currently drained a bit of coolant out of my junk2 rad(full aluminium x2 core) any suggestions? I had this issues back with the stock rad also sometimes it will show "cold" on the gauge, but VTEC will still work,

B_Swapped93

ok the temp gauge will read cold but if you've driven it a bit VTEC will work it seems.