JDMswagSerf

I have a 95 acura integra coupe ls.
its stock besides a chipped p75 ecu,
I tried to do the ignition timing because I got a new dist.
but the timing marks on the pulley wont line up to the timing cover.
the timing gun is clipped to cyl 1 wire,
gun is set to 15 degrees, I turn dist back and forth to get the last mark on the pulley, doesn't line up, only with the dist advanced all the way do the marks come close, like _ that close.

I set the gun to 0 degrees and try to line it up with the center mark of the 3 close marks, cant get it.
pulley is positioned on the crank with the key,
cel jumper connector is jumped.

Any help for this?
thanks in advance.

S2BumpsticksGSR

Have you checked to make sure your cams are tdc in relation to the crankshaft w/o engine running?

JDMswagSerf

yes, I checked that about 5/6 times prior to starting the car because I put a new HG on.

B_Swapped93

what brand of distributor ? OEM ?

JDMswagSerf

Idk.
Didn't think that mattered.
It's an obd1 Ls dist. Though.
But I'll check in the day light.
It has gsr spark plug wires but I don't think that should matter either right.

kyden

is your service connector jumped? I would also verify that your map is set at 16 degrees in the idle columns.

fcm

X2. 94

JDMswagSerf

yes it is jumped.

and do you mean make sure the map is at 16 degrees in the chip?

hondajunkie mentioned to me that if I am using some dist teeth that slide into the cam gear, that that might be causing this because ebay parts are not to oem spec most of the time.
so I am going to go to the junkyard to ee if I can find some different teeth off a dist

B_Swapped93

explain this properly WHAT are OEM teeth and for what component...do you mean an oem cam gear ?

JDMswagSerf

the teeth that are attached to the dist that slide in the cam are from ebay, the teeth might not be offset correctly, thus causing it to not make the timing marks line up.

JDMswagSerf

I still cannot get any marks to line up!
Only mark I can get is the furthest mark on the pulley to line up with the cover at 15 degrees. But the mark is suppose to line up at 0 degrees. So it's pointless that they line up.

I also noticed a lag In Power!
I'll be driving (in any gear) and the car will jerk slightly a few times till a certain rpm.
And there is a lag in the throttle response.
Also when I have the ac on, the lag is even longer!& it's not because of my ac is robbing my engine of power because I've had other Ls 5spd with ac that ran the same ac on or off.

The plugs are 130 miles old(re gapped after bought)
The plug wires are about 4000 miles old, going to ohm them out.
I am going to look at the cap and rotor to see if the contacts are dirty
And going to take the pulley bolt off to see if the pulley is with the key(I swear I put the key on)

If none of this fixes it, I am going to take the chipped ecu to a shop to check the map degrees.

I hAve a 93 non v prelude ecu, are the map degrees in those 16?
Maybe I could put it in and see if the response is better?

S2BumpsticksGSR

Multiple times resurfacing the head will throw your timing out of whack and it will be sluggish, too. How many head gaskets on the car have been replaced that you know of??

JDMswagSerf

Ah yes!
I dont know. This head i got off another car, so i do not know about the head, i have resurfaced it once.
As far as i know, the block has never been decked.
The last resurface on the head was like 4 months ago.
I used a fel pro head gasket
The gasket and the head resurface have 130miles on them.
Along with new piston rings& cylinder honing and a valve job.
Guess the only way to know is to pull the head off and measure it.
The cam/crank timing is spot on.

S2BumpsticksGSR

Ok, cuz I've seen like 1/2 -1 tooth off from machining. However, if that's right it must be distributor related like someone previously mentioned-

B_Swapped93

can you post a pic of the "off set" yes milling will cause unevenness I took off .030 and I have about half or 3/4 off car still runs great tho.

JDMswagSerf

I'll post a video of me turning the car over and measuring when cyl1 is at tdc and when the am arrows line up.
My distributor is not throwing any cel and I have tried 3 different sets of teeth that are pinned to it that slide into the intake cam.

By offset do you mean the teeth that are pinned to the dist and attach to the cam?

B_Swapped93

OK quick break down you have STOCK cam gears and have set the block to TDC but can't get the side timing mark to line up on the cam gears correct ?. where does the distributer come in ?

JDMswagSerf

It is bone stock.
I do have a gsr water pump and gsr timing belt.
But my cam gears are lined up to tdc with cyl#1.
So I do. Not think it matters that I have the gsr pump/belt because the cam arrows and cyl 1 are lined up at tdc.

The distributor comes in when I try to set the ignition timing.
Ever. At full advance, the furthest mark on the crank pulley will not line up with the timing cover.

I let the car warm up
Jump the cel connector
Clip gun to cyl 1 spark wire
Set timing light to 16 degrees, cannot line up center mark of the 3 to the timing cover
I set timing light to 0 degrees, cannot line up furthest mark away from the 3 marks on the pulley to the cover.

Basically ignition timing is not being set even with dist at full advance!

B_Swapped93

I've heard of ppl filing down the slots to accommodate what you're experiencing. I can't speak on it tho as I have no personal experience with it.

JDMswagSerf

What slots do you speak of?
Do you have a link for it?


Ok break through!
I pulled the cap and rotor off and this is what I find!

An the rotor was beat up.
I put the cap&rotor of a gsr dritributor that I have and drove the car and it worked.
The car doesn't hesitate while driving anymore.
Idk if its my mind wanting to make me think the car doesn't jerk.
But the bent terminals and beat up rotor could have caused the hesitation right?
But can I put the internals of my Ls distributor in the gsr distributor?
The gsr one looks cleaner and if I ever go LSV I'll have the gsr dist already, compared to having to cut a leg off the Ls distributor.

The hesitation is gone,
But there is still throttle lag.
I floor it for WOT in neutral and there is a lag, the engine does not respond rigt away.
There is no slack in my throttle cable, I have no cel on, could it be that my map sensor is not set to 16 degrees?

B_Swapped93

The slots that the screws go threw when you slid the distributer back n fourth. and yes worn cap+rotor would definitely do that. I'd compression test it you may be down. You don't set the map sensor you set the distributer. i'm not sure if you can swap guts from an ls dizzy to a gsr one and vice versa I don't think so there are several components with different part numbers.

JDMswagSerf

Oh okay!
Crazy thing, I was thinking about that earlier.
I'll do a comp test tomorrow.
And earlier in the thread
It was mentioned

That's why I ask.

I am going to try and plug in my obd1 prelude ecu to see if the engine response is right on with my throttle.

JDMswagSerf

Thanks for the help!

tukotheugly

Your problem is your gsr water pump and gsr timing belt. A stock b18 timing belt has about 18 teeth on it while the gsr has around 21, change all your b18c1 parts to b18b1 and you would have no problems. They are completely different engines bro. I understand this post was 9 years ago but hopefully you read this!