Javane

So hey guys. I know these things get asked every day but I've been through many posts and couldn't find what I really needed.
I recently just picked up a 01 Integra, all stock with 252k miles (yes it's a lot but I figure I'll do a swap later down the line). I am just now learning how to drive stick too.

Anyways, swap is for later. Right now I'm thinking more along the lines of all bolt on I/H/E and also suspension. I've been reading the forum and looking for advice before I made this post. They were all out of date or not exactly what I was looking for. My goal is for my car is to be my daily, no racing, track or anything like that.
I recognized one thing going through the forum is that "you either buy it right or you buy it twice" so I think I'll take my time and get quality parts. So I'll be avoiding eBay products.
So what this what post is really about, is finding the right parts for my car. Budget wise, I'm a full time college student part-timert time job... That should say a lot...

Intake: CAI or SRI? I've seen people running no name pipes with K&N Filters.
Header: Didn't look too much into this but your opinion is valued.
Exhaust: I don't wanna spend $600 on an exhaust system but I do want it to be of some quality and not sound like a fart can.
Suspension: Coilovers vs lowering springs? I know a lot of people have skunk2 coilovers on their Integras.

Also a big thanks to Jimmy and Mac (I assume that's your name from Instagram) with the yellow bugeye, for helping me during the buying process of my car.

CandyRedRC46

I have tried two intakes on my integra, an AEM short ram and an AEM cold air intake. I have also tried two headers, a DC 4-1 and a DC 4-2-1. Both the short ram and 4-1 seem to favor the 5000 and up RPM range, with power suffering in the below 4000 RPM area. The 4-2-1 and full length cold air intake seem to favor the 3000-5000 RPM area. Also being that the cold air intake is pulling air in from out side of the engine bay, it suffers less power loss or bogging when in traffic. For daily driving, the 4-2-1 and cold air intake combo is much more enjoyable. For exhaust I would pick up one of these kits:
94-01 Acura Integra Exhaust Tubing System - Mandrel Exhaust Systems
and take it to a muffler shop, that way you avoid crush bends and poor fitment. Being that you don't plan on racing I would stick with 2.25 as it will be quieter and lighter while still flowing really well. I would have a magnaflow high flow cat, resonator or two and oval end muffler, all 2.25 inch welded in.
For suspension I would avoid skunk2 and go with something higher quality and more adjustable like maybe BC Racing coilovers, that way you can fine tune ride height, preload and dampening, front and rear, for the best compromise of ride/handling/aesthetics.

Javane

I initially figured I'd go the CAI route but then came the potential of hydro locking my engine (even though it doesn't rain everyday, when it does, its a lot of water). So far most of my driving is 5000rpm or less.

I like that option for the exhaust system.

During my research for suspension upgrades. I saw lowering springs were good up until the point it messes up your factory struts so I thought I would buy new ones. I really wanna know the ride difference between coilovers and springs (presumably on new struts).

In an ideal world, I could get all these in a short amount of time, minus the coilovers. But I honestly can't, so what order should I aim to go in, in terms of the I/H/E?

CandyRedRC46

Do you regularly find yourself crossing high water of unknown depths and then decide to open the throttle? If no, (I really hope no), then you are fine. If there is an emergency, where you just have to risk damaging your car, to cross deep water, just take the 30 seconds to pull over, pop your hood and disconnect the piping from your throttle body first and then proceed to trash your car (at least you wont risk hydrolocking the motor). If you want to go the spring route (instead of coilovers), you need to start researching spring rates and invest in sleeves (it seems that lowering springs result in an uneven drop on these cars most of the time) and aftermarket struts, in the end, its not really worth it.

2001Macura

The B18B is a good engine for the platform out of the box. I think HOnda should have made all LS Integras come with the B20 stock since it is a little bit torquier. Having said that. I think suspension should be the first upgrade. replace worn out bushings, a small drop, and rear ASR subframe brace and larger rear sway bar will go a LONG way in the feel of performance.

The thing is with engine modifications, you should always budget more in case something breaks. Any modification, not using quality parts, has the potential to lessen the reliability. Im sure you may have seen this phrase somewhere. "CHEAP, FAST, RELIABLE; YOU CAN ONLY PICK TWO"

Good luck.

Mac

Javane

Lol. Good question. I just had the thought in the back of my mind. I don't see a lot of people hyrdolocking their car but I don't want to be that one off person. Whether CAI or SRI, I'm probably going wit AEM.
Also, I'm going with coilovers. Seems like a hassle to go with springs, then new struts and all that. I looked BC Racing up, from what I read, pretty nice quality. Was also recommended Racelands, Tien, and Function and Form.

2001Macura. The first thing I'm actually doing is getting an alarm system installed. Within the next week. You're the second person who recommended suspension before anything else. mhmmm *thinking*

2001Macura

Right on. Security is a MUST with a Honda. It is all about layers and layers.

Having done suspension upgrades you will enjoy a more spirited drive and be able to handle power to the ground when you do add power the car.

Javane

definitely! My friend just had his stolen, then they crashed it. I can't stand thieves.

I feel I might go the suspension route first.

Scorchin Civic

I just going to add my $0.02, I have used Eibach Sportline springs in the past on stock shocks and didn't notice any problems at all. My items that I had on my 1998 LS was AEM shortram, Greddy Evo catback, DC Sports 4-2-1 two piece header and, Neuspeed upper front strut bar.

I know a lot of these items seam hard to find these days but with a little looking around you can find them or something just as good.

Javane

Thanks for that. How long did you use that setup for your suspension? I'll try to find those parts and read up on them

Benny Honda

Definitely go with a DC ceramic header. My Integra has had one since the late 90's and its still doin its thing. I've always had a short ram intake on my Integra because I live in Washington State and it rains a lot. I had a friend 10 years ago hydro-lock his Integra. I'm sure he didn't pull over afterwards though. I remember Sport Compact car having an article on an AEM filter that connects to the cold air tubing that completely stops water. It seems like the AEM President or GM or something, made custom piping and ran it into a fish tank and revved his Acura NSX to show how well it worked. Seems like they were spendy but that was 15 years ago or so. Might be affordable now.

Benny Honda

There were no fish in the tank. -Before PITA gets involved.

Javane

Lol glad you cleared up the fish thing before PETA came knocking. DC header is the likely candidate.

any advice on the suspension, mainly the brands I listed above?

Benny Honda

Only suspension I've had on my Integra are old worn-out Sprint lowering springs. Wouldn't recommend those. I love my Ground Control/Koni yellows I have on my wagon. Lots of adjust-ability and you can even choose your own spring rates when you order. Seems like its $800-$1000, not sure how much you were wanting to spend.

Javane

That Koni Yellow/Ground Control seems like the best option right now. Originally I didn't wanna spend more than $600, but if I can get good quality for $200 more, then I might as well save $800 for the Koni Yellow/Ground Control then.

Benny Honda

Yeah just do your research. I wish I would have gotten stiffer rear springs on my wagon. With the back a little higher and rear shocks stiffer than fronts it handles way nicer than any other set-up I've ran, though. Also wish I would have gotten the top hats.

2001Macura

If spending $800 is a tough decision, plan your upgrades well. save for the perfect item to match well with your setup. This is more reference for engine work. But it holds true all across the board.

So you want to do suspension upgrades? Make sure you plan on replacing the rear trailing arm bushings if they have not been replaced yet. the lower control arm bolts like to sieze up. so you will need new from Honda or Acura dealer. at the same time, could get some quality lower control arms for some bling. I would recommend to save up about %25 more for Labor if you dont DIY and/or unexpected broken parts.

I do see a lot of the Koni/GC set up around and everyone seems to love it.

trm4life

Personally, I just went with stock suspension, but I installed poly bushings. The ride is honestly pretty stiff. I think the kit was around 250$. It was a lot of work but worth it. I have some stiffer front shocks, but they make the car pretty bouncy on side roads. I made my cold air intake with pvc. Ran a pipe to the bumper. I didn't connect them in the engine bay, so if I do go through water, it can't "vacuum" it up. I just ran a tube where the stock intake was, then mounted my intake filter just above the hole. Exhaust I'm running oversized stainless steel with a stock muffler. It's just loud enough to be noticed, not so loud you can't take a long trip. I also have a Flowmaster that I can bolt on if I want to be noisy, but it's just madness. Other than that I'm all stock with a chipped ecu. 0-60 is about 10 second in my non vtec b18.

CandyRedRC46

Flowmaster mufflers on a 4 cylinder is probably one of the worst sounds in the world.

LadyCamouflage

I agree with this, especially the last paragraph. The trick is to not have a budget I guess, right? Hahaha!

Javane

I'm trying to plan as best as I can. Bushings shouldn't be too bad, the dude I bought the car from had just replaced them and left me some extra ones in the trunk when I got the car. I'll probably do some of these upgrades myself, some with help from my mechanic.

Unless I come across anything better or just as good as the Koni/GC combo for around $800, then that's the way I'm going.

I could definitely start getting upgrades, like I/H/E now, but as someone advised, suspension is probably the place to start first. So I'll save for quality parts.

CandyRedRC46

Can someone enlighten me as to why a Koni/GC combo would be a better option than just getting a set of one piece BC Racing coilovers or something similar?

Javane

From what I've seen, the Koni/GC combo is a better option than a coilover in the same price range, 800 and lower. It comes with a lifetime warranty, plus the adjustability and all that.

CandyRedRC46

I have had BC Racing coilovers on my 328 for about 3 years now and they are holding up great after 70k miles. They have Preload/Ride height /Dampening adjustments. I can make it ride like butter or handle like a race car. I am very happy with them and they are in the exact price range that you are talking about. I am considering them for my Integra and Hatch too, so I am trying to find out the pros and cons.

DumpdEJ6

Just some advice: DC headers are notorious on here for being proven not to increase HP at all. I don't have personal experience with them, but look around in the All Motor section specifically and you'll see that they are almost universally reviled. A Hytech Toda/SMSP replica header is a good choice, new I think they are around $300 or so, but used they can be had for significantly less. I am on the low end/outlier section, I got mine used and rusty from a friend for $50. Some paint and heat wrap later and it's great.

As for an intake, you will get better results with 3" ebay tubing mated to a velocity stack and filter than any "intake system" on the market, brand name or not. You can't argue with dyno results, do a search for velocity stack vs XXXXX and you'll see that generic intake tubing with a velocity stack usually makes at least 1-2hp more than any intake system available, as well as being less than $100 or so. I personally have a Blox velocity stack with ebay piping.

Koni/GC are great suspension, and it's what I run, but I've had several friends who swear by Truhart, F&F, and D2 coilovers. The guy with D2 coilovers is one of the most knowledgeable techs I know, take that as you will.

Some very cheap insurance before/integrated with an alarm system is a hidden main relay killswitch. Very easy to make, (I did it and I'm "wiring impaired") and costs maybe $15, you just need wire and a decent switch.