el crapitan

use starter fluid, ether, propane, brake clean, etc. whatever can be contained in an aerosol can. spray liberally one spot at a time. around vacuum lines, throttle body gasket, and intake gasket areas.
when you reach an area in which idle is affected by the spray, you have isolated the vacuum leak to that area and can further examine it

N/A

Since when? None of my cars ever did, except if it had a bad booster.


And the arguing is exactly my point OP, you got 20 different guys giving u their opinion of what they think is wrong and it don't seem like it getting you anywhere, several guys asked you questions that are needed to answer, and you didn't even agknowledge them, thats y I didn't give my opinion and that's y I said jus bring it to a mechanic

Bowl_of_Rice

i used crc throttle body cleaner sprayed all the gaskets and vacuum lines and nothing but fizzling around the intake manifold gasket idk what that means, i guess i have to get the gauge, and see i guess, where exactly can i get one

el crapitan

when the brake pedal is depressed, a valve in the booster opens, allowing vacuum into the pedal side of the diaphragm inside the booster. this is how the brake booster uses vacuum to assist pedal effort. because the booster is pulling vacuum from the engine when the pedal is depressed, it causes a surge in idle. it's fact. it's normal

el crapitan

and you can pick up a vacuum gauge at pretty much any store that sells tools. it's a very common tool

Bowl_of_Rice

i guess i didnt put it in the info but i did try that already i was gonna try to borrow someones ecu or main relay and see if it does anything, but im just gonna go out and get the gauge and see what my vacuum is at

dpetro1

what ever happened to the idea of settng the base idle properly? when the car is warm and you unplug the IACV, the car should idle roughly at 400 rpm. here's a how-to from the factory service manual

Bowl_of_Rice

thanks for reading but i already said when i unplug the eacv my car turns off

Targa250R

It doesn't matter.

Did you bother to read the instructions?

Just take the time to set the base idle, like I told you to do two pages ago.

dpetro1

lol, if the car dies when you unplug the iacv then you need to loosen the idle screw (increase base idle) until you achieve the proper idle as I posted above

careful with the smarty pants smileys. you may not get any help next time

N/A

Op is a ****in moron or just lazy, any person with common sense couldve figure this out already

TheAsian

Maybe the op is young or isn't that tech savy. There isn't and reason to be a jerk about it.

Also he is getting a pleathera of info but hardley any expanation. Propane is a great diag tool for test o2 sensor to meter a bias lean or rich condition. But I wouldn't recomend it for a vacume leak diag.

Now op spraying around the brake clean you didn't find any leaks Correct. How many miles and what engine do you have. Dose the car stall when cold and hot or just warm what. How long do you drive before the car stalls.

The quick way I would eleminate and test the brake booster is just disconnecting and plugging the vacume tube. Take it for a quick spin and see if the problem continues.

To help you and not just start naming things it could be need more info.

N/A

Ummm we already told him out to test the booster, without disconnecting anything

And that's my point we've told him several things and he hasn't come back to say the results of any of it, and even has a incomplete list of things he has done.

He's being vague, and not taking what people have to say, if anyone is a jerk its him for wasting peoples time who actually have been trying to help him

Bowl_of_Rice

thanks, i am young and im not really that tech savy and just been trying to learn since i got this integra

i will answer everyones questions now. i sprayed around every gasket and every vacuum hose but there was no change in idle the only weird thing i saw was fizzling when i sprayed my intake manifold gasket. idk what i did but the car doesnt stall out anymore atleast i think its only on warm days but the other day was pretty warm but it didnt do it i took the main relay out i just unbolted it i didnt unplug it or anything i just pushed the connector in more and it clicked so i took it out for a spin it felt better but when im coming to a stop the idle will still drop when slowing down it only drops when im fully stopped it wont drop as im braking but once im holding it down but if i slam on the brakes the car stalls out and i wont even know it stalled out because it was so smooth like turning the key. also the car will want to stall if i start driving it right away in the morning after the cars been sitting over night and a cold start ill let it warm up for a good 2 mins before i drive because i like to get everything lubed up lol, when im backing out of my driveway the idle will just drop and fluctuate between 150 and 300 and if i sit for a little bit the idle will go back up to idling around 1500 1400 like it should be when its cold then i start driving and come to a stop i wont press on the brakes the car will just stall out then it take a little while for the car to turn back on ill just keep cranking it for a good 10 seconds then it will turn over and idle really low again around 150 300 fluctuating then once the car warms up all that goes away and itll idle low wanting to stall as soon as i stop the car at a stop sign or a red light and then go back up to 800 my idle is never steady by me saying never steady itll go from 700 for a minute at one light then 800 at one light then back to 700 at another light then sometimes 900 itll stay steady sometimes but most of the time fluctuate a little bit probably like 50rpms

sorry for not giving you guys enough info half the time im on here im just in a rush im one of those kids that never stay home im always either working or im in school, and yes im still in high school so i have problems trying to get on the internet

and sorry if you dont really understand what im saying again im in a rush typing all of this

Bowl_of_Rice

oh yea i have a stock b18b with 118xxx an exhaust with a bad cat and a dc sport 4-1 header with a dent in them and an intake with a huge spectre filter. i was told by this guy that my throttle body isnt stock either idk. as soon as i got this car i told myself im returning most of this stuff back to stock i since half of it is crap. ebay steering wheel broken climate control cut springs ebay lcas blown speakers retarded head unit that ended up getting stolen anyway ripped my weather stripping and i guess bent my window regulator cuz when i put the window up it goes out of the window track i have to hold the window in and an old timing belt so as soon as i got the car i put a new oem water pump and timing belt and tensioner by a guy thats been working on hondas for a long time but it cant be that because the car was still doing it before the timing belt change. i know the cars gonna need a valve adjustment to its pretty loud

N/A

Ahhh much better op

But did u try to brake with just the ebrake to see if it stalls?

Bowl_of_Rice

yea i did and it still stalled, but then i read the directions and i didnt know i could step on the gas and turn the car off when i adjusted my iacv lol, but whenever i let go of it evenly slowly still stalled out. so what i did i just called a friend over and had him try to step on the gas a little and i adjusted the screw out towards the firewall and it idles at 900 fine but it still fluctuates a little bit sometimes, when i adjust it lower the car will stall out but its running perfectly right now, could there be any other problem for me not being able to idle any lower

Bowl_of_Rice

how many grounds is dc integras suposed to have? is this right one on the battery one on the tranny one on the thermostat and one on the valve cover theres another one behind the valve cover thats missing a bolt that looks like it could be a ground to but idk

fcluddington

The idle speed of a new b18b in neutral is 750+-50 rpm. fast idle is 1,600+-200rpm. Try leaving it at 900rpm and see how it runs. sounds like your making progress.

Bowl_of_Rice

im gonna try to lower it again tomorrow, turning it right lowers the idle and to the left towards the fire wall raises it is that correct?

91CrXnovtec

My Brother in law recently had this problem we Cleaned the intake and the whole nine yards, I don't want to ruin your day, But his turned out to be the sock on the Fuel pump had broken free, he kept telling me every time he came to a red light and was on breaks it would stall out or start sputtering real bad and if he didn't press the gas to keep rpms up it died every time just a maybe is all hope it helps

Bowl_of_Rice

hmm ill take a look at that

N/A

Its not your fuel pump, that's what a fuel filter is for.

If it stalled as you stopped with the ebrake then its not the booster.

Get a oem tb

Bowl_of_Rice

yea i was thinking about doing that because the map sensor screws look a little messed up and the gasket looks old and whoever was messing with the car before messed up the idle screw a little bit

but yea was i right? turning the screw right lowers the idle and to the left towards the fire wall raises it?

N/A

You prob have a vacuum leak at the tb, did u try sprying around it?