Pooby88

I have a '91 Integra LS. The battery is draining when the car is off. No lights are staying on. I checked and cleaned the battery and starter connections. The alternator is working fine. It only has to sit for a couple hours and the battery is completely drained. I connected an amp-meter to the battery cable and pulled all fuses one by one. The amperage never dropped.

I'm out of ideas. Can anyone help?

hpd_eg2

Any System installed?

Pooby88

Nope. It still has the stock "Acura" cassette deck.

Pooby88

...and no security system

Kamikaze

iTrader: (1)

When you drive, do you notice that your lights dim? I just went through the same thing with my 94 integra... It was the battery, I replaced it and been running it for two weeks, without missing a beat. Only thing that's constantly on is the volt meter (which shouldn't drain much if any) and the security (again, shouldn't drain much unless it's going off)... Could be usually a few things. If your connections are corroded, go to a auto store, replace the wires... 2.) Could be your alternator if you notice the car shuts off when driving, or lights and things dimming when driving. 3.) Best bet is to buy a new battery if it hasn't been replaced and it's a 91.

Pooby88

I forgot to mention, the battery is brand new. The battery was old when it started, so that was the first thing I replaced. THe problem continued with the new battery.

BrumosTech

Sounds like a parasitic draw to me. Sure you checked all of the fuses? How about relays? W/ the ignition off and assuming all electrical loads are shut off how much amperage is being pulled from the battery?

Rikter

I had a similar probelm. It was my trunk light staying on.

-Rik

Pooby88

It's drawing a little over 3 millivolts with the car off.

all-mtr-teg

could be faulty ignition switch? has this happen to my 97 teg.

BrumosTech

3 millivolts? try testing for a parasitic draw in this fashion ->

turn off the ignition switch and all electrical loads. make sure doors are closed, lights are off, etc. loosen, <U>but do not completly remove</U>, the battery's negative cable. take a DVOM or Ammeter and connect it in series between the negative cable and battery's negative post. now you can completly remove the negative cable (the purpose of this is to keep the electrical systems energized). set the ammeter to the 10A scale and wait 10-15 minutes for the electrical systems to "rest" or go to "sleep". next turn the Ammeter down one scale at a time until you reach the 200mA scale. observe your reading. most automotive electrical systems will have a 5-15 mA draw which is normal. if your teggy has a higher draw start pulling fuses, relays, switches, modules, etc. dont forget import componets like the starter solenoid, alternator cable, etc. if you notice a drop in amperage when pulling a certain componet then the problem lies within that circuit.

sorry for all the rambling. i just see to many ppl test for a parasitic draw the wrong way. good luck, hope this helps.

p.s. a test light can be used in place of the DVOM or Ammeter. Its just not near as accurate.

solid gsr

trunk light or glove box light, i worked in a shop and it was always the glove box light