Master23

My integra turns on but sometimes it just won't start. Everytime i get it to start, it dies after a few seconds later. I replaced disturbutor, spark plug wires, and spark plugs. After that, i turned my car back on and it started for a few seconds and died again. There seems to be nothing wrong with the fuel injectors or the fuses. What do i do now?

gsrboi80

1. check spark
2. check fuel is getting to the engine
3. might be timing related (streched belt or somthing), make sure plug wires are hooked up right

Is it throwing a cel if so pull the code.

JHD_DA

sounds like the problem im having right now. instead of making another thread ill just post in here. my car will start for a second then die unless i give it gas and when i do it runs shitty. so far i replaced fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor and coil. im getting fuel pressure so it shouldnt be fuel related and i use injector cleaner every oil change. last thing i can think of is main fuel relay or new dizzy. HELP!

Curtisbeef

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrboi80 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. check spark
2. check fuel is getting to the engine
3. might be timing related (streched belt or somthing), make sure plug wires are hooked up right

Is it throwing a cel if so pull the code.</TD></TR></TABLE>


check those first

JDM B20 EH2

im haveing the same problem i have replaced my ecu,distrubitor,ign control modual,pgm-fi relay got it runnin the it died again.i think its my relay i have a diode in the relay if i jump out i can now hear the fuel pump kick on.Does ur pump kick on?still not started though im goin to replace the relay again monday as soon as the dealership opens.and ill see how it goes then.ill let everyone know.i have also changed the plugs,wires,car and rotor button.

JDM B20 EH2

i have figured what all of our probs are.i have replaced ecu,distrubitor,relays,fuel pump wires,everything.i called a honda and acura mecanical shop we figured out that i had a bad ground wire on the engine harness somewhere so i took all my grounds of cleaned them with a wire brush on a cordless drill.both the wire terminals and the block and body points.put every thing back together and it started up fain and has ran great ever since no problems.tach and speedo dont spike anymore and it dont miss anymore.i hope this helps everyone else as much as it helped me.

JHD_DA

how many grounds did u clean and where r they located? i thought my problem was the relay but it wasnt so it might be the grounds also. i was stuck at the dealer for almost an hour trying to figure out y my car wouldnt start and it finally did so i went home as fast as i can. this problem is bugging the hell outa me.

JDM B20 EH2

there is one on the water neck,one on valve cover to core support,one from battery to body and i ran one from the battery to the water neck one.i used a wire brush wheel on a drill.worked great.

JHD_DA

i ran a new wire from the battery to body and cleaned the contact areas and cleaned the valve cover to body but it didnt fix my problem. when my car wouldnt start i disconnected the map sensor and started it up and it stayed on but it ran rich while bogging. so i might have a bad sensor or wires going to the sensor. also ecu codes 3, 7, and 23 popped up. im running odb0 on a 94 gsr motor with a pr3 ecu.

chrisnova

I had a similar problem recently. I think the approach to these types of problems should be logical and systematic. I don't mean to offend anyone, but the shotgun approach, "try this try that" is only going to cost one a lot of time and money.

Anyway, the primary ingredients to running car are the following:

1. spark
2. compression
3. fuel

Unless the timing is way out the car usually has some ignition and comes close to starting. Of the 3 listed above, electrical is usually the weakest of the systems. Fuel and especially compression are more reliable. So the answer is to start testing with an inline spark tester. They cost $1.99 on sale at HArbor Freight Tools. You can visually see the light bulb light as the spark plug fires while connected to the running engine. With one of these, if the car dies, you can see the light not illuminating. In my case I had the same probelm last weekend and could see that happen. If the light did illuminate I would have quickly checked compression. This is faster than testing the fuel system. SO if the electrical and compression check out, the obvious place to go is to the fuel pump on the fuel system and work your way forward. I did this on my BMW 320I and found a bad start valve sensor (injects fuel for cold starts) and started my BMW. Anyway, if one can approach the problem methodically one can save a lot of time and money. By the way, in the case of my Integra I had a bad seconday output contact on the ignitor. Cleaned it with sandpaper and I was good to go. Diagnosed it with the $1.99 inline spark tester from HArbor Freight. Best $1.99 I ever spent. Saved me at least a $100 having the car towed to the repair shop.

Anyway, good luck on your repairs.

JDM B20 EH2

i had mechanics tell what all could be wrong and i replaced every thing that they said could be wong.witch was the ecu,distrubitor,relay,fuel pump,ign mod.,ign. coil.,plugs,wires,rotor button, everything. the ground thing was my prob fixer.my tach and speedo was jumping too.

JHD_DA

i hope i fixed my preblem. one of my tps sensor wires were only connected by 3 or 4 strands from the whole wire. i had to tap that wire for my nitrous throttle switch. so i soldered the wire back together and taped it up and its been running normal since. so our problems were a different fix.