I'm goin to install a kill switch
07-25-2003, 09:44 AM
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I'm goin to install a fuel kill switch
fuel kill switch
I've searched and this is tha info that i got:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) Get adequate gage wire. 16 or maybe even 18 gage should suffice for the fuel pump.
2) Make sure the wire is stranded not solid. Solid will break if you flex it too much.
3) Run your wires so that they wont get flexed a lot or risk having the insulation get worn down.
4) Use good crimp connections and make sure they're done right (ie not going to come apart)
5) Use electrical tape to wrap things that you want to stay in place or protect from moisture. Wire ties can work much better in some situations too.
6) Get a switch with an amperage rating high enough to handle the load of the fuel pump or whatever you're disabling
7) Put the switch, wires, and connection to the fuel pump wire (or whatever you decide to disable) somewhere that's hard to get to and/or find.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1- pull the back seats out and your center console all the way to the lighter and ashtray. here are some pics for the peeps who don't know how to tkae out the back seats, i, however, am not taking out the center console, that is a thing you will have to find out on your own. very easy though.
there are two plastic clips
there is a little lever so to say on it turn it one way or the other mine just happened to be DOWN at the time until you can see the silver rod that is attached to the seat. push the clip off
after this push the seat to the outer wall and you will be able to take off the rear seat. There is a plastic bushing on the inner rod that holds the seat careful they break easily. repeat on the other side. ponce you pull the seats tops its time for the bottom. grab a ten mil wrench.
unscrew that bolt. the seats are kept in with metal z clips up front so it takes a little finagelin to get it out. after that the fuel pump is under the bottom seat just directly to the left of my hand in that last pic and that is where you find the wire to to do the switch.
the fuel pump looks just like the little circular metal cover you can see under the aluminum bar in the third picture.
2- locate the fuel pump-it is directly under the center of the bottom of the rear seats
3- there is a pair of wires coming out of the center one yellow one and one black wrapped in that ribbed black plastic tubing
4- the yellow is the positive and the black is negative- cut one of them your preference.
5- get about 10 feet of 14Gage speaker wire put male connectors on one end of both wire
6- on the wire you just cut from your fuel pump, put female connectors on both ends.
7-plug the connectors together and wrap them up in electrical tape.
8-route the 14gage wire through the carpet to the center console area
9. buy a two prong 3 amp switch and mount it in a very hidden spot. you have to figure out where. i would recommend a black switch.
10. route the 14 gage wire to the switch with zip ties.
11- put female connectors on the end of the 14 gage wire and connect them to the switch
12 put your car back together and wallah one fuel kill switch installed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and this: http://www.geocities.com/ginof....html
is this info all good, is this the best way, and can any 1 add to this if there's any thin else i need to know?
Modified by -R- at 1:00 PM 7/27/2003
I've searched and this is tha info that i got:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) Get adequate gage wire. 16 or maybe even 18 gage should suffice for the fuel pump.
2) Make sure the wire is stranded not solid. Solid will break if you flex it too much.
3) Run your wires so that they wont get flexed a lot or risk having the insulation get worn down.
4) Use good crimp connections and make sure they're done right (ie not going to come apart)
5) Use electrical tape to wrap things that you want to stay in place or protect from moisture. Wire ties can work much better in some situations too.
6) Get a switch with an amperage rating high enough to handle the load of the fuel pump or whatever you're disabling
7) Put the switch, wires, and connection to the fuel pump wire (or whatever you decide to disable) somewhere that's hard to get to and/or find.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1- pull the back seats out and your center console all the way to the lighter and ashtray. here are some pics for the peeps who don't know how to tkae out the back seats, i, however, am not taking out the center console, that is a thing you will have to find out on your own. very easy though.
there are two plastic clips
there is a little lever so to say on it turn it one way or the other mine just happened to be DOWN at the time until you can see the silver rod that is attached to the seat. push the clip off
after this push the seat to the outer wall and you will be able to take off the rear seat. There is a plastic bushing on the inner rod that holds the seat careful they break easily. repeat on the other side. ponce you pull the seats tops its time for the bottom. grab a ten mil wrench.
the fuel pump looks just like the little circular metal cover you can see under the aluminum bar in the third picture.
2- locate the fuel pump-it is directly under the center of the bottom of the rear seats
3- there is a pair of wires coming out of the center one yellow one and one black wrapped in that ribbed black plastic tubing
4- the yellow is the positive and the black is negative- cut one of them your preference.
5- get about 10 feet of 14Gage speaker wire put male connectors on one end of both wire
6- on the wire you just cut from your fuel pump, put female connectors on both ends.
7-plug the connectors together and wrap them up in electrical tape.
8-route the 14gage wire through the carpet to the center console area
9. buy a two prong 3 amp switch and mount it in a very hidden spot. you have to figure out where. i would recommend a black switch.
10. route the 14 gage wire to the switch with zip ties.
11- put female connectors on the end of the 14 gage wire and connect them to the switch
12 put your car back together and wallah one fuel kill switch installed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and this: http://www.geocities.com/ginof....html
is this info all good, is this the best way, and can any 1 add to this if there's any thin else i need to know?
Modified by -R- at 1:00 PM 7/27/2003
07-25-2003, 10:22 AM
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Re: I'm goin to install a kill switch (-R-)
I'd say go with the bigger wire, 14 gage(Yeah, spelling it 'gage' is correct when discussing wire).
Too small of wire/too high of resistance is a common issue even with stock wiring. Can help you get an extra couple tength of a volt, sometimes a volt or higer, more on the pump. That will get you more flow out of it.
I used to design fuel pump/systems at Walbro Automotive 7 years ago....(I'm an electrical engineer).
14 gage ought to be ok. Yeah, good crimps and wrap them in tape rear well. Wrap it, so that if someone pulls on the wire, the tape will take the strain, not the crimped connections.
I think I'll do this myself on my hatch, once I'm done stuffing the LS motor into it..
Haggar
Too small of wire/too high of resistance is a common issue even with stock wiring. Can help you get an extra couple tength of a volt, sometimes a volt or higer, more on the pump. That will get you more flow out of it.
I used to design fuel pump/systems at Walbro Automotive 7 years ago....(I'm an electrical engineer).
14 gage ought to be ok. Yeah, good crimps and wrap them in tape rear well. Wrap it, so that if someone pulls on the wire, the tape will take the strain, not the crimped connections.
I think I'll do this myself on my hatch, once I'm done stuffing the LS motor into it..
Haggar
07-25-2003, 10:28 AM
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Re: I'm goin to install a kill switch (haggar)
ok cool thanks, so i will use a 14 gage wire.
i'm going to be removin tha rear seats so there won't be any thin coverin the wires exept fo da rear carpet(the 1 that can be removeed to get @ the spare tire) so i need sumthin that will protect the wires, i was thinkin about sumthin like this to put over them and under that carpet:
from http://www.beaconmediaproducts.com
i'm going to be removin tha rear seats so there won't be any thin coverin the wires exept fo da rear carpet(the 1 that can be removeed to get @ the spare tire) so i need sumthin that will protect the wires, i was thinkin about sumthin like this to put over them and under that carpet:
from http://www.beaconmediaproducts.com
07-25-2003, 10:31 AM
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Re: I'm goin to install a kill switch (-R-)
not to sound like a jackass , thats a really good idea and all but dont you think you shouldnt be posting it? your just letting everyone know your secrets
just my .02
just my .02
07-25-2003, 11:20 AM
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Re: I'm goin to install a kill switch (-R-)
Here's some stuff I have collected, ultimatly I think you need to visit http://www.the12volt.com (when their server is back up.
___________________________[ Kill Switch Ideas ]____________________________
LINKS:
------
Imobilizer Idea:
http://www.autospeed.com/A_0059/P_1/article.html
Here is a store that sells Bosch relays and other electronics:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...ID=31
Relays MULTIPLE uses:
http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/relays.html
Tilt (Mercury activated) switch for hood/body sensor:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...DID=7
Use The power door lock switch to activate the kill-switch relay.
Replace the door handle covers with those from an RS integra:
http://itr-nc.com/pat/rshandles_small.jpg
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=237232
Momentary Kill switch setup:
http://www.ae92gts.com/ae92gts_antitheft.html
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=244674
------
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TEKEN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You will want to place a 1 amp isolating diode on terminal 86 & 85 on the relay... The cathode or striped side of the diode will be facing terminal 86 on the relay... This will protect the relay against CEMF when the relay latches off...
Teken </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TEKEN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I was to implement the diode into my that circuit, where
would it go? Would it come between the fuel pump + and the exit of that
circuit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TEKEN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ideally the diode serves two important aspects in a set up like
this... The first reason is to absorb the voltage / current spikes that
may come back into the system and prevent a spark...
When using a relay the effects are very similar in that the second
diode is inline and *after* the relay to absorb and shunt the CEMF when the
*holding current* field collapses... This will prevent any possibility
of spike coming back into the system down stream from the relay as
well...
1. Anode being the positve side (+)
2. Cathode being the negative side with the stripe (-)
When the diode is being installed the diodes striped (-) side will be
facing or inline with the negative side of the power supply... And the
positive side will be facing the (+) of the power supply...
Please remember that the symbol of a: --------> current flows toward
the arrow |< as this is electron flow... The other way depicts the hole
flow...
Teken</TD></TR></TABLE>
___________________________[ Kill Switch Ideas ]____________________________
LINKS:
------
Imobilizer Idea:
http://www.autospeed.com/A_0059/P_1/article.html
Here is a store that sells Bosch relays and other electronics:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...ID=31
Relays MULTIPLE uses:
http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/relays.html
Tilt (Mercury activated) switch for hood/body sensor:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...DID=7
Use The power door lock switch to activate the kill-switch relay.
Replace the door handle covers with those from an RS integra:
http://itr-nc.com/pat/rshandles_small.jpg
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=237232
Momentary Kill switch setup:
http://www.ae92gts.com/ae92gts_antitheft.html
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=244674
------
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TEKEN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You will want to place a 1 amp isolating diode on terminal 86 & 85 on the relay... The cathode or striped side of the diode will be facing terminal 86 on the relay... This will protect the relay against CEMF when the relay latches off...
Teken </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TEKEN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I was to implement the diode into my that circuit, where
would it go? Would it come between the fuel pump + and the exit of that
circuit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TEKEN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ideally the diode serves two important aspects in a set up like
this... The first reason is to absorb the voltage / current spikes that
may come back into the system and prevent a spark...
When using a relay the effects are very similar in that the second
diode is inline and *after* the relay to absorb and shunt the CEMF when the
*holding current* field collapses... This will prevent any possibility
of spike coming back into the system down stream from the relay as
well...
1. Anode being the positve side (+)
2. Cathode being the negative side with the stripe (-)
When the diode is being installed the diodes striped (-) side will be
facing or inline with the negative side of the power supply... And the
positive side will be facing the (+) of the power supply...
Please remember that the symbol of a: --------> current flows toward
the arrow |< as this is electron flow... The other way depicts the hole
flow...
Teken</TD></TR></TABLE>
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07-25-2003, 12:31 PM
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Re: I'm goin to install a kill switch (-R-)
From what I've read on HT regarding kill switches, it was recommended I use 16A gage wires with a 16A~20A switch. btw, yellow/green wire is the power to fuel pump.
07-25-2003, 06:17 PM
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Re: I'm goin to install a kill switch (WOTTEG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WOTTEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Use The power door lock switch to activate the kill-switch relay.
Replace the door handle covers with those from an RS integra:
http://itr-nc.com/pat/rshandles_small.jpg
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=237232
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't get that (also tha pics on that thread r just little red X's)
could you explain how it works?
Use The power door lock switch to activate the kill-switch relay.
Replace the door handle covers with those from an RS integra:
http://itr-nc.com/pat/rshandles_small.jpg
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=237232
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't get that (also tha pics on that thread r just little red X's)
could you explain how it works?
07-25-2003, 06:49 PM
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Re: I'm goin to install a kill switch (-R-)
i think they mean 30 amp switch, not 3 amp. the line you are running into is 15 amps, a switch of 3 amps would fail almost immediately...plus, it's quite rare to find a 3 amp switch.
i used a 20 amp switch with a fuse holder in case the switch might go.
i used a 20 amp switch with a fuse holder in case the switch might go.
07-26-2003, 11:43 AM
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Re: I'm goin to install a kill switch (-R-)
RS door handles do not have electric switches to unlock the doors. So noone can stick a hanger in your car and unlock the doors. Just another preventative step to eliminate ways of llegal entry to your vehicle.
You can buy the RS door handles fom Acura.
Installation is very simple.
Problem is you have to wire a switch to (maybe the center console) to unlock your trunk.
Adios
You can buy the RS door handles fom Acura.
Installation is very simple.
Problem is you have to wire a switch to (maybe the center console) to unlock your trunk.
Adios
07-26-2003, 02:13 PM
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Re: I'm goin to install a kill switch (WOTTEG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WOTTEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...Problem is you have to wire a switch to (maybe the center console) to unlock your trunk...</TD></TR></TABLE>
unlock ur trunk??? or did u mean doors, how do u lock and unlock da doors????
how would i relocate the door locks?
unlock ur trunk??? or did u mean doors, how do u lock and unlock da doors????
how would i relocate the door locks?
07-26-2003, 07:26 PM
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Re: I'm goin to install a kill switch (-R-)
07-26-2003, 07:37 PM
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Re: I'm goin to install a kill switch (Calavera)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Calavera »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=570750
ask those people on that thread.</TD></TR></TABLE> sweet thanks i never saw that thread befo
Modified by -R- at 12:31 AM 7/27/2003
ask those people on that thread.</TD></TR></TABLE> sweet thanks i never saw that thread befo
Modified by -R- at 12:31 AM 7/27/2003
07-26-2003, 08:31 PM
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Re: I'm goin to install a kill switch
Ok, this is wat i've come up wit fo products to buy fo da fuel kill switch:
switch: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...DID=7 (how would i connect the wire to that switch, would i have to solder it on? r there any switches that i wouldn't need to solder a wire on to) or 1 of these: http://www.partsexpress.com/we...83399
wire: 14 gage stranded speaker wire
crimp: I don't know which kind i should get, there r so many. what kind should i get???? but if i need to solder the wire on to the switch i might as well just solder the wires (yellow/green fuel pump wire and 14 gage wire) to gether insead of using a crimp. How about Terminals Express Seals instead: http://www.partsexpress.com/we...D=415
Heat Shrink:sumthin like this http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...DID=7 but if i use a crimp should i put heat shrink ova it or just electrical tape?
Modified by -R- at 12:51 AM 7/27/2003
Modified by -R- at 12:52 AM 7/27/2003
switch: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...DID=7 (how would i connect the wire to that switch, would i have to solder it on? r there any switches that i wouldn't need to solder a wire on to) or 1 of these: http://www.partsexpress.com/we...83399
wire: 14 gage stranded speaker wire
crimp: I don't know which kind i should get, there r so many. what kind should i get???? but if i need to solder the wire on to the switch i might as well just solder the wires (yellow/green fuel pump wire and 14 gage wire) to gether insead of using a crimp. How about Terminals Express Seals instead: http://www.partsexpress.com/we...D=415
Heat Shrink:sumthin like this http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...DID=7 but if i use a crimp should i put heat shrink ova it or just electrical tape?
Modified by -R- at 12:51 AM 7/27/2003
Modified by -R- at 12:52 AM 7/27/2003
07-27-2003, 08:49 AM
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Re: (DownBoyDown)
Spoonfeeding:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DownBoyDown »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anyone explain to me what a relay would do?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
Relays:
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DownBoyDown »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would it be ok to just put a toggle switch in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No.
Momentary to constant kill switch(es):
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DownBoyDown »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anyone explain to me what a relay would do?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
Relays:
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DownBoyDown »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would it be ok to just put a toggle switch in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No.
Momentary to constant kill switch(es):
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp
07-27-2003, 08:51 AM
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Re: (WOTTEG)
Diode across the coil of a relay:
The diode provides a path for current when the current path to the relay is interrupted (i.e. switched off). This allows the coil field to collapse without the voltage spike that would otherwise be generated. The diode protects switch or relay contacts and other circuits that may be sensitive to voltage spikes.
The diode provides a path for current when the current path to the relay is interrupted (i.e. switched off). This allows the coil field to collapse without the voltage spike that would otherwise be generated. The diode protects switch or relay contacts and other circuits that may be sensitive to voltage spikes.