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100% rebuild now running, now what? - Inputs please!

Old 04-26-2005, 11:03 PM
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Default 100% rebuild now running, now what? - Inputs please!

FINALLY. I got it started.
b16 fully built minus sleeves, everything else was replaced. Ive gotten over 100+ miles it so far.

I cranked the motor over and over and over and over until the oil light turned off. Plugged my dissy and put my wires on and it cranked over. I reved the motor right away to 3k for about 5 minutes and then went and beat the **** out of it... Ive been beating the **** out of it ever since for these first 100 miles... No CELS (Finally after today, vtec pressure switch and vtec signal are two different wires )

What is next.... Im running a p28 with ~9:1 CR. When should I change my oil? Is my ECU fine the way it is? Will I pass emissions...

Pros chime please

vtak y0!
Old 04-26-2005, 11:20 PM
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Default Re: 100% rebuild now running, now what? - Inputs please! (jDMJeRk)

stock > cp pistons.
Old 04-26-2005, 11:32 PM
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Default Re: 100% rebuild now running, now what? - Inputs please! (KraZEtEggIE)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KraZEtEggIE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock &gt; cp pistons.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What?

Uh, jdmjerk, some would disagree with your break-in method, but whatever

The Haynes and Helms suggests some mid-high RPM throttle lifts to seat the rings, then about 2000 miles of gentle driving under 4k RPM to let the parts get to know each other... but then again some of the pro engine builders do what you do.

There's different schools of thought on what to do now too... Some say change your oil right after initial start-up with conventional and again after 500 (switch to synthetic after 2k miles or whatever your break-in period is). Change at your own pace, 3k miles or 5k miles or never change the oil, depending on your preferences

If you're running different cams, I'd suggest changing the P28 to Hondata, AEM EMS or just a VAFC1 or 2. How built is fully built? And why is your compression 9:1? Are you FI? If you're FI right now and you're just running a P28...
Old 04-27-2005, 05:56 AM
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fully built:
b16
eagle rods
block guard
cp pistons (9:1) (81.5mm)
lots of machine work (port and polish, balanced, yadda yadda yadda)

stage 2 super tech dished valve train (Valves, springs, retainers)
gsr cams
revhard manifold
misc other ****.
(note: yes its a FI car, WITHOUT FI right now... I want to make sure everything was peaches and creme first )

Ive had many others say just beat the **** out of it, mostly from the pros (Or at least what I would consider a pro)... If its going to break its going to break now, not when I take it easy and then hammer on it... Im thinking about changing the oil today or at 200 miles...

Thanks!


Modified by jDMJeRk at 11:05 AM 4/27/2005
Old 04-27-2005, 10:05 AM
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almost n00n bump4g3
Old 04-27-2005, 11:41 AM
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Default Re: (jDMJeRk)

Nice, sounds like a sweet setup!

Like I said, at this point, the oil change schedule is pretty much your call. I would change it now like you said and again every 3k... but that's me - I'm a little overzealous about oil changes sometimes.

I think a P28 with your setup will be fine for now - the GSR cams and lower compression won't really affect too much. What do you have for engine management when you slap the turbo on? And what turbo? Mmmm, details now!

Old 04-27-2005, 04:22 PM
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Default Re: (psychotic_z)

I'd run conventional oil until 1000ish miles then run a good quality synthetic. I did the same when I bought my 97 GSR new and it now has over 100000 with MANY trips to the revlimter and several track days at Summit Point and VIR. The car burns very little oil in between oil changes.
Old 04-27-2005, 10:39 PM
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Default Re: (Educator)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Educator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd run conventional oil until 1000ish miles then run a good quality synthetic. I did the same when I bought my 97 GSR new and it now has over 100000 with MANY trips to the revlimter and several track days at Summit Point and VIR. The car burns very little oil in between oil changes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im not a synthetic fan.... I like to get underneath my car every 2.5k to check everything out myself...

Im all about the changes as well... I think I will change it now. with that GE dain plug i should be ok and maybe ill have some pics of the metal off the motor

turbo im going with something inbtween gt25-gt30... CRPTurbo is making my manifold and then a local shop is going to finish the job with uberdata (i think )
Old 04-28-2005, 03:08 AM
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Default Re: (jDMJeRk)

Good deal... I can relate with you about the oil.

Take care of that thing and post some pics when you get the turbo set up!
Old 04-28-2005, 03:28 PM
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Default Re: (jDMJeRk)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jDMJeRk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im not a synthetic fan.... I like to get underneath my car every 2.5k to check everything out myself...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I still change it at 3000ish miles. Synthetics have proven over and over that they retain viscosity characteristics longer than conventional oils. I admit, every 3000 miles is overkill but, I could eat off of the cam lobes it's that clean. I also have a magnetic drain pug for the oilpan and at every oil change it shows little to no wear.
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