tekstyle

Donor:
99 gsr swap: OBD2a ECU, OBD2a engine harness. 2000 GSR OBD2 distributor housing ( I swapped over the sensors from my 1999 gsr dizzy. the harness has the same color and wires). I also swapped over the 00 LS alternator.

Recipient:
2000LS Chassis. Originally OBD2b LS motor. manual transmission. has immbolizer.

progress:
hooked up all hoses. hooked up all wires except secondary O2 sensor ground wire is not hooked up. I can't find an orange/blue wire coming off the sensor.

attemp to start the car and all i get is the crank turning. I hear the fuel pump after 2 clicks of the key, so it seems like i am not getting ignition. Does the immobilizer have something to do with it? I am still using my chipped key. I also noticed that I have 4 extra wires that are not used on the LS ECU harness. they are:

A19 NEP - engine speed pulse (tach signal) blue
A12 immobilizer indicator light Pink
A13 immobilizer enable signal Blue
A25 immobilizer code red


Updated! 2/15/08<U></U>

Fuel system:
there's pressure at the fuel filter. I can hear the main fuel relay at key position 2. I also hear a relay click (de-energizing) when i let go of the key after attempting to crank with clutch pedal both in and out. This sounds like it is coming from the engine bay, but I can't tell where. maybe fuse box?
all engine bay fuses are intact. I forgot to look at the ones under the dash.

Also checked the spark plugs. The tips are black. and after several failed attempts at startup, they smell like fuel. Can I safely assume the injectors are working properly?


Can someone help me? My registration is about to expire and I really need this car up and running asap i can get it smogged. Thanks!


Updated: 2/17/08
I put the key to position 2 and turn the dizzy shaft while off the motor and i get clicking from the injectors. Therefore, I think the injectors are working and getting fuel.

I pulled No. 1 plug out and cranked the engine. I see a spark. it's nothing spectacular. just a proof of yellow. is that right?

for every fail attempt.. i also hear a buzzing noise coming from the engine bay.. it sounds like it's coming from under the intake manifold. when i turn the key back to position 1, the buzzing stops.

Updated: 2/18/08 3am

I tested the voltage of the current battery and it's at 12.30V. I clamped on a jumper battery (Negative to the distributor body and positive to the terminal) that's 95% charged and checked the voltage again. It was 12.56V. The jumper battery read 50% the moment i clamped it on. I also added a new ground to the top right corner of the valve cover to the left strut tower with an 8 guage audio power wire.

I attempted to start the car and it seemed to want to start better. I can feel there's exhaust flow going out the tailpipe, but ultimately, nothing happened.

The buzzing noise seems like it's coming from the starter. I will attempt to swap out the starter and try again. I will also bring the dizzy to a shop to get it checked out. In my area, Kragen, and Autozone do not test dizzies.

updated: 2/19/08

buzzing noise is coming from IAC valve. NOT the starter (my bad). spark plug looks super black with crud on it. I am gonna go get some new plugs. They do look wet so a least I know the injectors are definitely working. What can I do to fix my IAC problem? will this prevent me from starting the car?


updated: 2/20/08:

I cleaned the IACV with brake cleaner (both of them that came off my gsr and ls motor). and tested their wires, and the device itself. everything works. it clicks, and the wires are getting 12V. I attempted to start up the car and after 2 seconds of forcefully giving it gas at the same time, I hear a big BAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think that was a misfire from running too rich. I confirmed by sniffing the tailpipe and it indeed smell like fresh gasoline (note: the car's been sitting around for 1-2 weeks). According to the Helm's if IAC system appears to be working, then replace ECU and try again. I guess that's what I have to do now. Anyone want to give their inputs?

Updated: 2/23/08:
Today I doubled checked my connectors and indeed, i switched the TPS and MAP sensor connectors. I tested the TPS for ohm readings to see if it's not expletiveed up. it looks good. to be on the safe side, I swapped it out from another TB. Then I checked the wiring on both connectors.

Afterwards, I repinned my ECU harness for the LS OBD2b ECU (note: the motor is a b18c1 OBD2a). Fired it up and I was able to idle for 10 seconds. I needed to keep my foot on the gas tho. I also tried it with a OBD1 civic SI ECU with jumper harness and it gave me the same thing.

However, when I check the MIL, the CEL light was solid. doesn't that mean bad ECU. I got that on all my ECUs so far (OBD2b P75 LS ECU, OBD1 P28 SI ECU, OBD2a P72 GSR ECU).

My IACV is still humming really loud (multimeter shows 12V on yellow/black wire, and .744V on the black/bue wire)

updated: 2/25/08:
IACV: black/blue wire -.749V yellow/black 12V
still humming. I have 2 IACV and both are humming. I think it's a wiring thing. but I don't know where to start since I have already followed the Helm's in testing for short and open circuit or what not.

ok. today my car was able to idle at about 1-1.5k rpm. it still runs really rough. I later found out the reason it was able to idle by itself like this was because the PCV port was unplugged, providing a source of air to the engine. I plugged it back up and it was very difficult to start the car. Whenever I rev the rpm to 3k and above, I hear a LOUD SQUEEL from the motor. It sounds like a bad pulley or something. NOTE that all the belt driven devices used to work perfectly fine before the swap. I do have a new AC belt. Maybe it's too tight?

When the car is running, I also notice steam coming out from the throttle body openning. I openned the butterfly and more steam came out. it smell like fuel. I took off the TB and noticed a small puddle of liquid in the yellow/brown mix color (like liquid fece). it also smell like fuel. I think this is motor oil and fuel. is that normal? My PCV hoses are not connected to my IM. They go to a catch can.

Thinking the rough idle was caused by a retarded timing, I attemped to advance it a little. Then once I started the car, the ECU threw a CEL. it reads 71 and 72. Random misfire. I looked at the Helm's and it directed me to check: ignition, fuel, MAP, and IACV.

NOTE that I did swap the TPS and the MAP previously. Maybe my MAP sensor went bad?

one more thing.... is the vacuum check valve necessary? I don't have mine on my motor.

updated 3/22/08:
car idles great. a little high, but engine is cold. The stuck valve was from too much crud on the stem. I took all of them out, sanded them with 2000grit, soaked them in seafoam, and put them back into the head. I also swapped the GS-R harness to the original LS harness. Upon start up, i would hear a loud squeal. That is just the accessory belts. easy fix. I also learned that the same humming from the IACV is heard even after i swapped the engine harness (I thought this was the cuprit perviously). I guess there was nothing wrong with the GSR harness to begin with ($160 down the drain).

Right now, the exhaust vibrates a lot. I think it is because the LS header/cat/exhaust is a about 1 inch shorter than the gsr's. I had to use a C clamp to get the cat flange and collector flange close enough to bolt them down. I guess the only fix for this is to go to an exhaust shop and get things rewelded. or get another exhaust specifically for gsr's.

as of now, everything seems cool. i just need to adjust the timing.

Modified by tekstyle at 9:18 AM 2/26/2008


Modified by tekstyle at 1:47 AM 3/22/2008

tekstyle

midnight bump!

tekstyle

do you guys know if I can swap the ignition coil and ignition unit inside the distributor between a GSR and a LS? i know the housing has physical differences.

I think either I have a bad distributor or a bad ECU, but how can i find out without getting new parts to test?

DA_9

You are gonna want a GSR obd2 dizzy and a obd2 vtec ecu. Dont replace the parts inside the dizzy.

tekstyle

thanks DA_9! I really appreciate your response. i found an article to run tests on the dizzy. is there one i can run on the ECU to see if it's dead? I don't want to spend too much on the wrong thing.

DA_9

Not quite sure, im pretty sure its not your ECU though. Check the coil inside the dizzy. Take off the cap from the dizzy and the plastic below it, you will see a round little rotor. Take the rotor off, and bring to AUTOZONE and i think they can check it for you. That way if its just the rotor you dont gotta spend more than 40 bucks. Make sure u leave your dizzy the way it is, you can expletive up the timing and firing order if you mess with it. Also, in your dizzy if you see a white substance kinda like sugar but thinner anywhere on it its dead. You may also be able to see like cracks on parts and ****. Luck!

deftonerider

you can test the coil yourself with an ohmmeter or dvom it should be about .6-1.0 ohms of resistance through the primary and about 6 to 10 thousand ohms through the secondary
as for the module you have to take it to autozone and they can test it but i don't know how to test it yourself

SilverDc2

make sure the immobilzer is disabled on the ecu.

get a proper distributor, I've seen them work on LS-V's but i wouldn't risk a few bucks


just buy a proper dist. and you dont have to worry abou tit.

tekstyle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverDc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure the immobilzer is disabled on the ecu.

get a proper distributor, I've seen them work on LS-V's but i wouldn't risk a few bucks


just buy a proper dist. and you dont have to worry abou tit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have a oBD2a gsr ECU. there's no immobilizer in the ECU. however, I don't know if there's something special about the 2000LS's ignition system.

i m gonna take a look at the distributor right now.

tekstyle

Just checked the dizzy. there was a bad ignition coil. i replaced it with the LS one since it was the same thing TC-08A on both. and it still doesn't work. I think i am gonna take it to autozone like someone suggested and run a test on it.

I checked the ECU and it looks good. took it apart and everything was intact. doesn't smell like burnt electronics.

tekstyle

update posted.

MonsterB20Ek

check the fuses under the hood like the 15 (backup one) just check them all while your at it

tekstyle

all fuses are good

MonsterB20Ek

all 3 grounds are on?

timing? dizzy good?

tekstyle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MonsterB20Ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all 3 grounds are on?

timing? dizzy good?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I only know of 2 grounds. one to the valve cover. the other to the transmission beneath the intake. where's the 3rd one?

timing is good.

dizzy is still up in the air. i'll try to get it figured out this weekend.

Thanks Monster!

tekstyle

bump... newly updated!

Rikter

To check your ecu just put it in a vehicle that will run off that ecu that is currently running. If it fires up, your ecu is definitely good.
-Rik

DoHcV-tEc

Maybe you need a new dizzy? just try it

tekstyle

editted again.

DoHcV-tEc

Have you tryed putting in another dizzy?

Zappythebum

I'd say you just need that 1% more and your in good shape

MonsterB20Ek

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tekstyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I only know of 2 grounds. one to the valve cover. the other to the transmission beneath the intake. where's the 3rd one?

timing is good.

dizzy is still up in the air. i'll try to get it figured out this weekend.

Thanks Monster! </TD></TR></TABLE>

3rd one is by the thermostat housing

tekstyle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DoHcV-tEc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you tryed putting in another dizzy?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't have another dizzy to try with. However, I did run tests on the coil and I am getting .8 ohms between (+) and (-). and also getting 15.66k ohms between (-) and the spring.

I talked to one of the guys at a shop and he said if I am getting ANY spark at all, my Ignition control module is good.

Monster: I found the 3rd ground and it's good.


Currently, I am charging the battery. It's at 13.25V right now. with 1 amp left.

db1_jdm

Does that obd2 motor use a ckp sensor? (crankshaft position sensor)
Did you hook it up?

tekstyle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by db1_jdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does that obd2 motor use a ckp sensor? (crankshaft position sensor)
Did you hook it up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup. It is hooked up. I know because when i take the dizzy off and spin the shaft with my fingers, I can hear the clicking from the injectors. meaning, the ECU is reading the signals from the CKP sensor and sending the output to the injectors... to the best of my knowledge.


on a side note, does LS fuel rail fit GSR? Because that's what I am doing now. I don't have my gsr fuel rail anymore.