Calsonic

I've read a bunch of threads about these products. I am planning on changing my MTF with one of these products although I don't have any grinding when shifting. The problem I'm having is the shifter feels really notchy and sometimes gets difficult to get into gear unless I shift into neutral and then back into gear. Sometimes at a stop I will shift into 2nd and then into first and it seems to slide in gear easier.

So here's what I've learned... (please correct me if I'm wrong)..

1.) There are two kinds of GM Synchromesh MTF; Regular & Friction Modified
2.) GM Synchromesh Regular is to be used on non-LSD trannys.
3.) GM Synchromesh Friction Modified is to be used on LSD trannys.
4.) Pennzoil makes GM Synchromesh.
5.) Pennzoil has a product called "Pennzoil Synchromesh" which is the same as GM Synchromesh Regular.
6.) GM Synchromesh Regular part #12345349
7.) GM Synchromesh Friction Modified part #123777916
8.) Pennzoil Synchromesh can be found at Autozone for cheaper.







Modified by Calsonic at 12:55 PM 1/14/2005

Jdmglenn

GM Synchromesh Regular part #12345349

i used that **** in my R tranny and it didnt chatter at much, shifts SMOOTHLY

JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Calsonic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... gets difficult to get into gear unless I pump the clutch a few times in neutral first...</TD></TR></TABLE>If pumping the clutch improves things, then I'd be looking at bleeding your clutch first. Then check for bad master or slave...

For any problems that can be 'fixed' by tranny fluid, pumping the clutch won't make any difference.

Calsonic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If pumping the clutch improves things, then I'd be looking at bleeding your clutch first. Then check for bad master or slave...

For any problems that can be 'fixed' by tranny fluid, pumping the clutch won't make any difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pumping the clutch makes it slightly easier to get into gear but the shifter still feels really notchy. People have told me that the synchros aren't not lining up right and that's what makes it hard to shift. I checked my master cylinder & slave cylinder for any leaks and I didn't see any.

Eclypz

i just recently flushed my tranny with Penzoil Synchromesh and I have no complaints

Si Integra

Bump for an answer for this guy

GM Synchromesh owns!

Vera

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si Integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump for an answer for this guy

GM Synchromesh owns!</TD></TR></TABLE>

indeed it does

b0pIT

If pumping the clutch helps id definately check out your clutch hydrolic circuit. If there's air in the system the clutch is not disengauging fully. Its the same thing as not pushing your clutch pedal down far enough and trying to get into gear, it will be notchy. grind, or not get into gear at all. After you check/fix the hydrolics you might still want to change your tranny fluid. its not a bad idea. just make sure to loosen the drain plug before you loosen te fill plug.

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

I'm gonna order the FM version tomorrow. I have a grind after VTEC in 3rd. Hopefully my dealer carries it since I do live on an island and the dealerships don't carry everything in stock.

hotsuma23

Guys i have a quick question, its a little off-topic but its about tranny grinds. Ok I am having a hard time going into second its the only gear that takes a little more force to go into. I suspect its a worn syncro. I am not interested in tearing down my tranny to replace so im gonna try this stuff. Now the thing i want to ask is today for the first time i have had the car i grinded a gear It was my fault i was turning and my shoes were wet so my foot slipped halfway off the clutch pedal while in mid-shift. The clutch started engaging as I was trying to go into second and it grinded for like a split second. How bad is this for your tranny?? Does this do alot of damage? Do i need to change my tranny fluid? Thanks.

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

A small grind wouldn't probably affect the tranny much. As for your second gear notchiness, maybe shift fork is bad? Couldn't hurt to change your MTF. Honda recommends every 2 years or 30,000 miles.

hotsuma23

No i dont believe its the shift fork, the problem only pertains to second gear. It doest take a huge shove to go in but it takes more force than the other gears, and sometimes it doesnt want to go in to 1st or R when i am parked. Another thing that happened is sitting at a light the light goes green i go to put it in first and it donest go in!!! Happened today was embarassing people honked, i had to run it in 3rd then 4th then i threw it in first and it went. Oh, tranny woes!

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

My Type-S was funny like that. It wouldn't go into first a couple of times. Had to pull out in second. After a while it went back in but it was very tight.

EMphaticONE

GM synchromesh FM is hype; it prevents you from fast shifting, which in turn prevents you from grinding gears.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pearlblueb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GM synchromesh FM is hype; it prevents you from fast shifting, which in turn prevents you from grinding gears. </TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm sounds like some hype there to me.

I've been running GM friction modfied for over 40K miles now and it's been nothing but great. I can shift very fast if I want to, and absolutely no grinds whatsoever. I'm about to hit 190,000 miles, still on my original transmission.

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hmm sounds like some hype there to me.

I've been running GM friction modfied for over 40K miles now and it's been nothing but great. I can shift very fast if I want to, and absolutely no grinds whatsoever. I'm about to hit 190,000 miles, still on my original transmission.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Glad to hear that Patrick. People keep asking what are the long term effects.

j87w

I have a quick semi off topic question. Can you use the Synchromesh with a Kaaz lsd? Also why would my tranny not grind one bit while racing but grind sometimes while normally driving?

MikeTV

The best to buy it ATE superblue....that stuff is amazing...to find out more about it, do a search

AlphaQup

Here's a lil debate between me and Mr. PatrickGSR, a little while back (On Topic)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothre...05084

Use Penzoil.

JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hotsuma23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am having a hard time going into second its the only gear that takes a little more force to go into. I suspect its a worn syncro...</TD></TR></TABLE>If your clutch doesn't disengage completely; a strong synchro will block you out of gear, while a weak synchro will allow you to push thru & grind. First make sure your clutch isn't dragging, or your pilot bearing may be getting stiff.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eclipse spanker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The best to buy it ATE superblue....that stuff is amazing...to find out more about it, do a search </TD></TR></TABLE>That's brake fluid... Good for the clutch hydraulic system, but maybe not such a good idea in your transmission.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Calsonic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Pumping the clutch makes it slightly easier to get into gear but the shifter still feels really notchy. People have told me that the synchros aren't not lining up right and that's what makes it hard to shift. I checked my master cylinder & slave cylinder for any leaks and I didn't see any.</TD></TR></TABLE>Check the master cylinder shaft where it comes thru the firewall. Sometimes it soaks into the carpet where it's hard to see.

It doesn't have to leak OUT to be bad... The master can leak back into the reservoir, EXACTLY like the slowly-dropping-brake-pedal business.

Then again, the clutch disk can warp or it can get so it doesn't slide real easy on the tranny shaft splines. So when you disengage the clutch, it's still dragging on the flywheel or PP. That way it's still sorta trying to spin. This causes GOOD synchros to block you out of gear.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AlphaQup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's a lil debate between me and Mr. PatrickGSR, a little while back (On Topic)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothre...05084

Use Penzoil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I still maintain that GM's FM stuff is different than what is sold in automotive stores under the Pennzoil name. My friend who is an ASE-certified mechanic at a Chevy dealer and gets me my Synchromesh fluid, he used to use it in his turbo Eclipse when he had it, and he tells me that the Pennzoil stuff is not as good as GM's Synchromesh Friction Modified.

And don't worry, he's not trying to "get me to buy GM's stuff" or make any money or anything, he gets it to me at his cost.

rice4life

iTrader: (3)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by j87w &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a quick semi off topic question. Can you use the Synchromesh with a Kaaz lsd? Also why would my tranny not grind one bit while racing but grind sometimes while normally driving?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've read on several post that people have been using synchromesh with Kaaz lsd instead of kaaz fluid. so i decided to try it, it's been about 3k miles now and it works great. much less chatter from the kaaz lsd when it's cold.

Calsonic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Check the master cylinder shaft where it comes thru the firewall. Sometimes it soaks into the carpet where it's hard to see.

It doesn't have to leak OUT to be bad... The master can leak back into the reservoir, EXACTLY like the slowly-dropping-brake-pedal business.

Then again, the clutch disk can warp or it can get so it doesn't slide real easy on the tranny shaft splines. So when you disengage the clutch, it's still dragging on the flywheel or PP. That way it's still sorta trying to spin. This causes GOOD synchros to block you out of gear.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I already checked the other side of the firewall for leaks and didn't see any. My old 94 LS had a leak through the firewall and I fixed that a while ago. What are signs that the master cylinder is bad if it doesn't leak? I don't know if my clutch disk if warped unless I pull my tranny off and inspect it. I'm going to replace my MTF regardless since it's been overdue and I bet there are small metal shavings in there from the previous owner. I think I'm going to use the Pennzoil Synchromesh and see how it goes. If the problem still occurs, then it's either the shift fork, clutch, or master/slave cylinder.

JimBlake

If the MC is going bad, watch the throw-out lever by the slave. There's a rubber boot over it, pull that away. Have someone pump the clutch while you watch the lever. Pump the pedal & then hold it down to the floor. If it's bad, the lever will slowly move back towards the slave cylinder. It shouldn't move over any reasonable length of time, like the length of a red light.

For a dragging clutch, lift & support the front of the car. Start the engine, put in first gear, & hold down the clutch. The wheels should not start spinning. Hold for a redlight-duration or whatever, it still shouldn't start to engage.

I haven't done this to mine, but I guess if you actually removed the brake pads then the wheels might spin? The brakes always drag just a tiny bit, enough to stop the wheels.

After all this BS, I should ask if it's always been like this? Compared to some other cars, my GSR tranny has always been kinda notchy getting into first.

What oil is in there now? Synthetic engine oil is often too slippery for synchros. They're like little clutches, so if it's too slippery they have a harder time driving the baulk ring to match the hub.

Dan GSR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eclipse spanker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The best to buy it ATE superblue....that stuff is amazing...to find out more about it, do a search </TD></TR></TABLE>

j00 smoking too much weed