ecu fuse keeps popping
#1
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ecu fuse keeps popping
one day i was in my car and the next morning i go to start my car, well no fuel pump primeage going on, so i checked my fuses, my ecu fuse under the hood popped, so i replace it, as soon as i turn the ignition on the fuse blew again. now my question is does that mean my ecu may be bad or would it mean i have a short. i did the stupid route and jumped the fuse with a wire and melted the wire that is under the dash by the fuse box that is yellow with a black stripe and it runs to the brown relay bolted by the fuse box under the dash. yes i know i shouldnt have jumped it but i just wanted to find out where the short was, if there even was one. any help would be appreciated.
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Re: ecu fuse keeps popping
Make sure the connector under your back seat isn't corroded because water got to it. If its water damaged fix it. I hard wired mine. Everything past it has its own individual disconnect.
Mine managed to toast my ecu some how. Along with other things.
Mine managed to toast my ecu some how. Along with other things.
#3
Re: ecu fuse keeps popping
You didn't tell us about your car, so I'm trusting it is close to mine ('96 GSR).
Comparing your comments with what I see of the wiring diagram.. I note:
The ECU fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box is always on, 15A, and is linked to the PGM-FI Main relay by a Yellow/white-stripe wire.
When the key is turned on and the Main relay closes that power passes to the Yellow/black you mention, which feeds: ECU, fuel injectors, IAC, Evap-purge, and the O2 sensor heater.
It's a short list, so if you follow the charred insulation they should lead you to something on that list. Better still..
I encourage you to get an inexpensive voltmeter at Radio shack, it's less expensive and more reliable than hunting shorts with a bypassed fuse. You can then disconnect those items one at a time until the short disappears.
Good luck,
Mark
Comparing your comments with what I see of the wiring diagram.. I note:
The ECU fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box is always on, 15A, and is linked to the PGM-FI Main relay by a Yellow/white-stripe wire.
When the key is turned on and the Main relay closes that power passes to the Yellow/black you mention, which feeds: ECU, fuel injectors, IAC, Evap-purge, and the O2 sensor heater.
It's a short list, so if you follow the charred insulation they should lead you to something on that list. Better still..
I encourage you to get an inexpensive voltmeter at Radio shack, it's less expensive and more reliable than hunting shorts with a bypassed fuse. You can then disconnect those items one at a time until the short disappears.
Good luck,
Mark
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Joecivic94
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12-19-2012 02:42 PM