Ef Hatch 34

2001 GSR. A few nights back I got in the car and started her up, and the rpms were jumpin from 1 to 2 non stop. then I got a CEL. I did the paperclip check and got a code 9. CYP sensor in the dizzy. I went to my friends house to try his dizzy out and I still had the light.. but this time I went to check the code and the CEL just stayed on and wouldn't blink, only the ABS light, giving me codes 32, 54 and 81. but my ABS is not even on, only when I plugged the paperclip? ... SO today I go and buy the OBD2 scanner and get only 1 code, P1607 , Powertrain control module. I read everywhere that this code means I need a new ecu. I have a 01 GSR with the immobilizer and I read that in order to reprogram the key to the ECU to start the car I have to take it to the dealer or someone who can reprogram it. is this true or can I just get a jumper harness and a OBD1 P72? Or what would be the fix to my problem? I just want that stupid CEL to go away! please someone fill me in... This is my first OBD2 car and out of 6 cars that i've owned, I've never had an ECU go bad... any information would be awesome..

racebum

honda ecus almost never go bad but it can happen...just have never seen it. without brainstorming this i would pay for an hour of diagnostics at acura. if it is the ecu you can get another used one and have them do the immobolizer for you.

Ef Hatch 34

So you're saying I shouldn't trust the OBD2 scanner? And When I change the ECU, is the car not going to start until the new ECU is coupled to the key? Should I take the car to acura ready to swap ECUs and just have them reprogram it? I feel like the dealer is going to rip me off crucially.. is there any way I can do this at home with some special tools? and what about the CEL code 9 that I was getting before that went away? it won't read it anymore before the ECU went bad? so when I change the ECU i'l get the Dizzy code again? sorry for so many questions, but I love to understand my car and why it does what it does..

TheRealTegger

They do go bad, usually on account of moisture, sometimes due to bad components and/or cracked solder. It's rare, but it does happen. I've encountered a number of them.

The first thing you need to do is to use your scan tool to clear the ECM's memory.

The second thing you need to do is to watch the behavior of the Check Engine light (properly, "MIL") as you turn the key. I think you've got a 2-second MIL.
You should experience this:
Turn key to "II": A click from under dash, MIL goes on.
2 seconds later: another click and MIL goes off.
Turn key to "III": yet another click, and starter cranks. This click is difficult to hear over starter.

Do the above, then report what happens.

Ef Hatch 34

thank you so much for the detailed response, i really appreciate it.
I did as told, cleared the light. and then followed your instructions but the light came back on 1 second after it started. I tried again and cleared the code and I turned the key to "II" and the light came on for 2 seconds, went off and came back on. I tried to clear it several times but the light just comes back. was that test to see if the main relay was bad?

TheRealTegger

MIL behavior and the clicks are the ECM tests and the Main Relay tests.

Did you get a P1607 each time the MIL came back on? I hope you checked each time.

Ef Hatch 34

Yes I checked, and it was always the one code P1607

Ef Hatch 34

So If i get an P72 OBD2a ecu and a jumper harness , would the car run normally then? no more MIL except the car could be stolen since the immobilizer would do nothing?
and would it be a bad idea to get a P73 type R ECU? would that do more bad than good?

Ef Hatch 34

I have the ecu and the harness both up on ebay for buy now and a click away from being at my door step if some one can confirm this..

TheRealTegger

All Honda says about this issue is to "Substitute a known good ECM". But that's just from my limited personal store of information. I do not have a current Techinfo subscription, and I have no reason to go back in right now.

If you don't mind spending a few extra bucks, you can buy a 3-day subscription for $10 at https://techinfo.honda.com. Honda's Techinfo is about the cheapest of all the automakers, a great deal for DIY'ers.

Techinfo is the same information the dealer gets. If there are any updates that I'm aware of (and I don't know everything) regarding P1607, Techinfo will have it. I have no idea how much this eBay ECM is, but my preference would be to burn $10 at Techinfo to be certain there isn't some "gotcha" somewhere...

Ef Hatch 34

Well there goes another problem, my ECU is the 01 with the immobilizer, so if i plug in someone else's ecu in there, it won't work i'm assuming.. so What i would like to quickly find out is, will the obd2a ecu work with the jumper harness and will the car run fine? will that eliminate the immobilizer all together with no problems?

racebum

you should be able to find this out by searching turbo as well. any 00-01 car that goes turbo would have to deal with this issue so their may be more information than code searching. i believe it works but am not 100% positive if the ignition has to be changed or not. as far as i know a boomslang and obd2a ecu are all you need. hey, on that note, call a tuner, they would know.

Ef Hatch 34

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/2000-gsr-immobilizer-issue-code-p1607-2732624/ They said some where on there that the OBD2a would work fine with no problems.. I think i'm going that route.. thanks for all the help guys. I'll let you know how it goes..