mac_24_seven

iTrader: (1)

Alright. This was the first time I've ever done ANY suspension work of any kind..
and I have to say it's much easier than most people would think (easier than I thought anyway).

So, this little guide should give a n00b a good idea of what they are getting into and
what to expect. This is by no means perfect. I’m sure I’m gonna leave some stuff out
and their may be a better way to go about doing something. I’ll do my best to
describe what I did and any problems I encountered. If something is wrong, please,
let me know and I’ll update so as to not mislead anybody.

With that said, here we go!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The patient is a 1994 GSR Sedan names Aeirs. I’ll be installing Ground Control coil overs (dampers) w/KYB struts.


Now, the first thing you want to do is get it off the ground w/jack stands, or
jacks. Whatever is safe. Absolutely, NEVER EVER EVER EVER get under
or work around a car that's not secure. Jacks can fail and stuff breaks.. You
don't need to be under a car when it happens. Safety is more important than
your car being low

I chose to do my like this..


So, if the jack failed, the blocks would catch it, and if the blocks failed, the car would
still be resting on the tires(had tires on the other side, underneath as well. So, I felt safe.)

Tools needed:
Jack/jack stands
12-17 MM sockets/wrenches
A buddy (always helpful if you have one around)
Some Nirvana (preferably Nevermind, but whatever works for you )

First up: The front suspension.

#0: Obviously, remove the tires


#1: Remove the two 12mm bolts holding the brake lines to the strut.

The brake lines have a little bracket they are bolted to on the damper,
(2) 12 mm bolts I believe. I used a 1/4 drive ratchet to get em’ off. Be sure to move
the brake lines out of the way so they don't get caught in between a spring.



#2: Remove 14 MM bolt on the damper fork.
Now, the damper sits in a little socket in the damper fork. It has a 14 mm bolt going
through a flange that screws into a self locking nut, to clamp the assembly down and
hold it in place.
It looks like so:


#3: Remove the 17mm bolt holding the damper fork into place.
Next up, you need to loosen the damper fork so the whole assembly will drop
down.. I forget the size of the nut, but I think its like a 17 or 18 mm.

It looks like this..



#4: Remove the two 12 MM nuts holding the damper in place in the engine
compartment.
Once that bolt is removed, you can then go up top and remove the 2 nuts holding the
whole assembly on

You can do it w/out removing the strut bar (if you have a GSR or aftermarket) but I
decided it would be easier and went ahead and took it out.


With those last 2 nuts, the complete damper assembly will pull right out. You have to
wiggle it and maneuver it through the suspension components, but it'll come out.

The finished product! Asbestos FTW!



Now for the rear.. which is slightly more aggrivating than the front.


#1: Remove the backets holding down the wheel sensor line. 12MM bolts.



#2: Remove flange bolt holding the damper in place.

Next up, is the very annoying bolt thats hard to remove and even harder to get back
in. It's a 17mm.
Use a punch or a screw driver, once it's loose, and tap it out of its home. Or pull it
w/some pliers, whichever way you so choose.
It's on the far left of the picture, at the bottom. I've already removed the bolt in the
pic.


#3: OPTIONAL
I didn't take a picture of it, but your gonna want to remove the bolt holding the sway bar (if you have one) so you have some more room to play with.


#4: Remove nuts holding the damper in place, in the trunk. 12MM bolts
With those done, you can go up top and remove the two 12 mm nuts holding the
assembly in. If you have a 2 door, you have to remove a lil cover to get to them. in a 4 door, you have to remove the panels in the trunk, as I did.



With evrything loose, you can now remove the assembly. Your gonna have to push down on the rotor (or drum) so give yourself the room to remove the damper. Kind of tricky, but not too bad.

Now for the goods

Sexy huh?

The assembly is just the reverse of the removal for the front and back. It’s helpful to
have 2 sets of hands to do this, but one person can manage.

A tip for the rear...Remember that big bolt I said was hard to get out?


Using a jack, pick up the suspension and line up the hole so the bolt will go through. Use a hammer to lightly tap on the bolt while raising/lowering (whatever you need to go) to get it to go back home. Not the easiest thing to do, but you kind of have to, so don't whine

As for the front, the dampers are opposite hand (a left and a right.) The bracket for
the brakes won't line up with the brake hoses.
Also, three is a little indention in the strut where the bolt you removed here..


The bolt and that indention MUST line up.


And then, the finished product. I bought these from a guy who had em on his Integra,
so they were already set up, so I haven’t adjusted them YET. But it’s suppose to be
really easy



Overall, it's a pretty straightforward process. Anybody w/half a brain should be able
to do it. It's a simple as knowing what you have to take out, and removing any
bolts/nuts that are hindering you from doing so.

IF I need to add/change anything that may be correct, don’t flame, just let me
know and I’ll be more than happy to change it. I want this to, maybe just
maybe, help somebody out one day. J



Terrance



Modified by mac_24_seven at 1:23 PM 2/27/2007

1998_4dr_gsr

sweet! i hav gc's

KBG Indey

you don't have to remove the sway bar bolt to get the rear out, i used to just remove the upper control arm in the rear.

gsR_Ace20

i must say nice write up overall, pics are a + good job only if i had this write up 2 years and 5 cars ago my whole trial and error thing on the first one wouldn't have been so bad lol but we all learn sooner or later

liquidx

how long did it take you all together........nice write up

mac_24_seven

iTrader: (1)

I did the front by myself...From the time it was set on blocks and most definetly taking my time and then by bro in law helping remove the rear.. 1.5

And about 30 mins ot put back together.

I could do the whole job by myself in an hour (removeing and re-installing), now that I know what to do and what to expect.

liquidx

how is that ride?

kaoss_11

love the two tone....

bg-33p

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaoss_11 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">love the two tone....</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, get that stuff painted so it'll be more sexy!

great write up for beginners

numotive

nice writeup. i'm contemplating on getting some GC's to go with my illuminas.

one question, would u need to get an alignment done after installing new coilovers?