tony_2018

No difference homie...no difference.

I can take the main relay from my civic, 99-00, and still plug it into an obd1 integra OR an obd2a/b integra and it will still work.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

interesting, maybe i am looking at an error in the manuals then. check this out:

i scanned the wiring diagram from the haynes manual. It shows a yellow/green wire going to the fuel pump and a blue/white and yellow/white coming in from the fuse box (under dash) into the main relay.


but here is what i found in my helms manual for 1998 model:


if i'm looking at this correctly i'm seeing a yellow/green coming in from a fuse and going into the relay.

then here is the breakdown a few pages later

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

I would trust Helms over Haynes everyday of the week.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

in which case, that could make sense why i'm not getting power to the ecu. the wire thats all messed up is giving power to the relay. at least according to the helms if i am reading that correctly. i'm assuming in that diagram that the power path is from the fuse down to the relay.

tony_2018

If it ain't helms burn that **** dude..but seriously the relay itself is the same for 92-00 civics and 94-01 integra's. Kid you not.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

Oh geeeeeeeze.....sometimes i really am my own worst enemy. I was able to get in the garage and do some work for about an hour tonight before the cold was entirely too much. The kero heaters can only do so much when it is zero outside. So, there was an important lesson learned tonight. it is not a good idea to work on a vehicle to exhaustion and burn yourself out. I made a very stupid mistake somewhere along the way when i first started messing with this electrical stuff. I think it happened after i made the repairs to the wires at the ECU, because that would have me remove the fuse for the ECU while i was doing the repairs. And then, after i made the repairs, i put the freakin fuse back in the wrong place.....There was no power going to the ECU, because there was no fuse in the correct holder.... So frustrating, this is all because of an oversight i made. BUT!!! On a good note, i finished the repair to the main relay wire harness and plugged the ECU back in and plugged in the vafc2 and everything turned on as it was supposed to. Frustrating that it took me this long to find this out, but i'm thankful its over. The fuel tank is going back in next weekend and fuel is going in the tank and i'm going to start priming the system and checking for leaks.

I'm not so bright sometimes lol....

MotorMouth93

iTrader: (1)

Awesome!! Looking forward to the startup.

I did something similar trying to get my ABS light to go off. No codes were showing and I was ripping my hair out trying to figure out what was wrong. Then one day I decided to check the FSM and step one of troubleshooting was to check some seemingly unrelated fuse...which it turns out I had removed because I needed it somewhere else...

tony_2018

All good, I did the same yesterday. I stopped working on my sisters db7 because my arm starting hurting. So far all that is done are the bushings(suja1), exhaust(all oem gaskets) and some ignition maintenance.

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

lol rough deal but glad to hear you are back on track.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

So, as seems to be the norm with my car, good news bad news.

Good news: i installed the filler neck and fuel tank, got all of the hoses and lines connected up and i pressurized the fuel system. two cranks of the key and there was gasoline spraying in the engine bay. I overlooked the main fuel feed to the bottom of the filter and never tightened it in all the way. tightened that up, pressurized the system a couple more times and checked for leaks. No leaks = happy Dante. That fuel tank was a real buggar though, i bet it took me 2 hours of messing with that thing. raise the tank, lower the tank, raise the tank, lower the thank. By the way, a transmission jack is perfect for putting in or tanking out a fuel tank by yourself. Much more stable than on a standard floor jack.

My wife helped me bleed the clutch. I never did it after installing the new CMC and CSC. That took forever, but its nice having pedal pressure again. I have not adjusted the clutch pedal yet.

Bad news: I spotted some surface rust just under where the fuel filler sits. so i said, i'll knock it down real quick with a brass wire wheel. Knock it down real quick i did....



Penetrated right through that thing metal. UGH...This quarter panel's repair just got harder. I was intending on just replacing basically the wheel arch, but that is out the window now. I also have to be careful how high up i go for this repair. A long time ago, circa 2004 or 2005 maybe this car was rear ended in a parking lot. I watched the guy do it, i wasn't even in the car when it happened lol. Anyways, this panel has been repaired once before and the body shop that did it sectioned in a new panel. I see where they messed with it in the trunk, and i DO NOT want to touch that. I think that will just be opening up a huge can of worms. Oh well, i'll have to figure that mess out when i get to it. My goal for now is to get the car to run for the first time in about 2 years.

So naturally, a few questions come to mind. What is the best way to start a car that has been sitting for this long? It has fresh oil and plugs and all of that, while it was sitting i sprayed a chemical into the spark plug chambers (i forget the product but it is back in the build somewhere) and i occasionally rotated the crank while it was sitting. I need a good procedure to fire this car up again.

I'm sure there will be stuff leaking everywhere once i start it, but that is to be expected. Especially after finding the main fuel feed line hand tightened into the filter. Getting real close! Ran out of time this weekend but Depending on work this week, i should be able to leave early one day and come home and try and fire her up.

tony_2018

remove ecu fuse, and make sure you remember where it goes, leave the valve cover loose and crank the engine over until you see oil coming up to the head. Once done add fuse, tighten up the valve cover and start her up.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

This would be the most crucial item LOL

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

well, i tried to crank the motor over to get oil all over the necessary parts, and all i got from the car as a response was a loud click. The lights all dimmed a bit, but never went out. It sounds like the starter solenoid is trying to do something, but thats as far as its getting. i'll pull the starter hopefully tonight and see how dirty the contacts are. i may need to do the DIY rebuild project on that. before i do that though, i'll take the battery and the starter up the street to advanced and have them both tested to make sure i don't have an issue some place else.

tony_2018

tap ith hammer, make sure battery has proper volts or jump

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

while cranking my voltage display was showing 12.2-12.5 volts. Should be good considering it was trying to start the car, right? i'll smack the starter a couple of times and see if that won't get it's head in the game lol

tamboo

lmao @ your avatar!
anyone can pm me for some for reals serious gourmet **** recipes. 8)

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

Oook. I'm not sure what to call a win and what not to. I had to dip into my quarter panel fund and get a new starter. Put the starter in and cranked away with the ecu unplugged to get everything coated with oil. Then i plugged that fuse back in and cranked away with fuel going into the system. After a while, the engine fired...and it scared me. It sounds pretty terrible. It has great oil pressure, but it sounds off. I double checked my firing order and that was correct. So then i thought, maybe that stuff i sprayed down the spark plug tubes is causing a misfire. So i pulled the plugs and cleaned them off. You can see some clear bubbles that i think may be the stuff i sprayed down the tubes around the plug in this pic:


Then, i immediately started thinking of all of the bad things i could have done. The sound is very reminiscent of when my car started eating coolant a long long time ago. So i drained the oil, and it doesnt appear to be mixed and looks clean:


So now i'm thinking -did i hook up a coolant line where it should have been vacuum? Did i screw up something when i replaced my lma's? Im paranoid now lol. So i'm gonna buy 5 more quarts of oil tomorrow, try and double check my hose connections at the intake manifold, and pull the valve cover and see if anything immediately looks bad. Here is the video of it running. I say open downpipe in the video but i mean manifold lol. Its throwin 3 CEL codes, 1 related to the TPS and 2 for the downstream o2 sensor (because its not there). Ignore the fast and the furious in the background haha. prior to this video i had it running for about 3 minutes to check for leaks before the sound of it running worried me enough that i shut it off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIu-qHq0Lt8&feature=youtu.be

tony_2018

I'm sure there is a fuse for the main relay, so pull that too.

WildandFree-ish

hey, how long has it been since the motor ran? Sounds like you have bad fuel in your lines.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

its been almost 2 years since it has ran, but i replaced all of the fuel lines, the fuel pump, and the fuel meter when i dropped the tank.

it may be out of time a bit, or i may have seriously screwed something up when i replaced the LMAs in the head. i double checked all of my coolant/vacuum lines and those are correct. and another win, there are no leaks. the car has only run a combined total of 15 minutes but they werent leaking yet. i'm going to check for spark tonight and a few other easy things before i start retracing my steps with the LMA replacement. i wont have free time to do that until sunday most likely. i'll update with some new pics and a new video tonight.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

This past weekend i wanted to cross something off my list and get a little more walking space in my garage. so i installed the bumper. good grief, look at these panel gaps. i definitely have some adjusting to do.













on to things that frustrate me...i focused my attention at the t-belt. i pulled the valve cover and set the motor to TDC. do these seem off a smidge?



i did pass up the white timing mark a bit, so maybe that is why it seems a bit off, at least its nothing crazy like 1 or 2 teeth off.



it still has a really bad miss. i took this video after putting the valve cover back on. it idles pretty steady, but as soon as a load is put on the motor it shakes really bad. i tried to get a good shot of this a few times with my phone, but its really hard to see how bad it is shaking.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Kd7LX68Sik

i'm going to check for fuel and spark at each plug this week, if that checks out good, i'll go back and re-do my work and check my steps when i did the LMAs in the head. is there anything i should check before i go to that step? this has to be something i did during the rebuild.

MotorMouth93

iTrader: (1)

What are your injectors like? If they were sitting with old gas for a long time they could be gummed up. There's plenty of DIYs on ghetto injector cleaning that might be worth a shot.

What does the inside of the distributor look like under the cap? And how is it clocked?

Also I'd unplug the VAFC and run the ECU as it was from the factory until you get it running properly, it probably isn't hurting anything but eliminating variables is good.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

i didnt even think about the injectors. i'll give that a shot. i know there was no fuel in the lines or tank because they were off the car, but there could have been some residual fuel in the injectors. i'll also fire up the car with the vafc unplugged to see if that makes a difference. i'm definitely going to check the easy things first before i tear into the head again lol

tony_2018

yes, bad gas will have that misfire issue.

About the gaps...I'm not seeing any issues unless you wanna circle them for me, or take closer pictures.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

i'd have to get a better picture. the gap is mainly on the sides by the fenders. it tapers down the closer you get to the windshield, so i'm assuming i'd have to adjust the fenders. i'll grab some better pics next time i get out into the garage.