twentyhurtz

ok i have searched this and found SIMILAR problems but not this one. If you have experienced this problem before please help.

i have a 95 GSR, JDM B18C, car was running perfectly fine, then started to have an idle problem, idle on this car normally is 850 rpms, now idle was fluctuating from 1000-1500 surging, so i pulled the IACV off of another one of our cars, with a b18c1 in it, and the surging problem went away, but now, when i crank the car, it instant(warm up) idle is like 2200 rpms and when it finally warms up or settles, it stays at a constant 1500 rpms.
I then pulled my throttle body off, thoroughly cleaned the FITV valve as i did the rest of the throttle body too, put it back on, same problem, took carb cleaner sprayed around all vac lines, fittings, manifold, throttle body, brake booster, everywhere and do not hear surging up. does anyone have any suggestions?

Rahjahdat

There's a screw right around where the throttle body is located, you can adjust the idle by turning it, try that for starters. I can't post any pictures because im on my sidekick, maybe somebody will be nice enough to do it for me.

racebum

the fact this just randomly came on has me thinking vacuum leak. check all your hoses and start capping off leads and see if any of them fix it. also check the bolts on the intake and make sure it's mounted to the head with some torque. your idle is heavily influenced by:

1. cam timing
2. ignition timing {check this while your at it}
3. vacuum
4. water temp
5. idle control valve
6. map and tps sensors on the TB

twentyhurtz

yea the idle screw that is under the cable pulley on the TB, it looks tight as if it hasn't moved. This evening i will check all bolts on IM and even swap for a different TB i have laying around and let you guys know tommorow the results.

twentyhurtz

TTT still not fixed.. sprayed carb cleaner around everything, motor did not rev up any

racebum

your TB sticking at all? cable too tight?

next check to make sure you don't have cracked vacuum hose anywhere

i've also seen charcoal canisters cause this when they crack and create a vac leak.

twentyhurtz

i don't think cable it too tight, because i went from perfectly fine, to bad IACV, changed ONLY that part, and now idle is exactly 700 rpms higher than start up idel and warmed up idle, i went from having start up of about 1500, and warm up of 800, to a start up of 2200 and a warm up of 1500, so i will check cable, but i don't think thats it. i after that have fully thoroughly cleaned the TB. i sprayed carb cleaner at EVERYTHING, hoses, mani, TB, canisters, Boosters, i've run out of idea's.

twentyhurtz

i'm thinking the IACV that i put on could even be the problem, cause my car ran perfect, then idle started getting out of wack, from 800-2000 just back and forth, changed IACV that bouncyness went away but now i'm left with just higher idle.

sick_dc2

im haveing the same damn problem too! i cant figure outtt what the hell is making my idle soo hight! but mine idles at 2200rpm!!!

HondaLove517

I did have the same problem but mine was due to a stuck open t-stat. On pre-96 b-series motors (might be a little off), theres whats called a fast idle thermo valve. Do a search and you'll find a DIY on cleaning it. It's purpose is to help the car warm up and calms the idle down due to the water temp. Every morning especially since it's cold my car idles a 2200 and than slowly as it warms up works its way down to 850. I thought mine might have been bad but than found out it's control by water temp and since I was running so damn cold it idled high thinking the car wasn't fully warm which in my guess it wasn't. Hope this helps

HondaLove517

I don't know if it's on all b-series motor if someone can confirm that. I did find it was on pre-96's

j_bizach

First
put the old IACV back on but before you do clean it and replace the old orings (reusing the old ones may only worsen your problem creating vac leaks)
Youve taken your TB off again your cars going on 14 years old replace the gasket
When sprayin carb cleaner on ur vac line your engine should return to normal (you listening to for the cleaner to momentarly seal the vac leak not be sucked into the engine and burned) if you hit a vac leak.
Your Fast Idle Valve is not your problem this simply bumps your rpm up a few hundered rpm for cold starts if your rpms drop after heating up its not your problem. You can confirm this by pushing the linkage for this up and then down one with send the motor up and few rpms and the other will return it to idle if your car doesnt return to normal idle it not you prob.
Your intake bolt are not likely the problem if the seal on your intake mani failed youd most likely be experiencing much worse idle problem and u'd likely hear the vac leak.

Vac. leaks can sometimes be heard listen around the intake for a sucking of air noise. Vac. leaks in your cause of a thousand rpms or more create other symp. like rmps droping slower than normal when the motor is rev'ed.

That bolt on ur TB is for making adj. of small rpm dont mess with that its not out of adjustment and shouldnt be used. It will not fix your problem. DO NOT ADJUST IT

Does your car have any problems with the cooling system (does it heat up and stay warm and not over heat)
Hows your ignition timing?
If you havnt mess with you cams or timing belt this is likely not a problem if your timing belt slipped youd probably noticed it (youd be getting valve chatter or worse)
Vac. leaks can be hard to track down sometimes still a good possibily
Sensors is also a possibily have your obd1 read see if that turns up anything.