RICKSAUTOMOTIVE

i know this is old and i wasnt gonna read all the posts. IDK what car you even have or the year but in regauds to the codes here- all misfire codes of a numbered cylinder (multiple cylinders) and a 1399 code. the 1399 is also for valve lash adjustment in some cars. this could have been your bent valve. check your valve advustments. this could be causing your multiple misfires. too many codes all at once is rarely a bunch of different things but caused by one part. in volkswagons however, some of those cars have the coil packs on the plugs as do later (newer) hondas. in the volkswagons the require spark plug replacement every 40,000 miles. the coil packs seem to go bad about 110,000 miles and they start tripping all kinds of misfire codes. start with your valve lash. then clear you CEL. if the codes come back, change your spark plugs if you have not dome so already. make sure you use a platnum NGK plug for a factory replacment. dont use irradium or split fire or any other so called high performance plug-you wont get any improvements. then clear your CEL again. if you get misfire codes again change your coil packs if you have them. do them all. then clear your CEL again. before you do these procedures, quickly rule out your injectors by disconnecting their electrical connectors after removing the negative battery cable. know your radio code before dis connecting the battery cable because you will need the code to bump your tunes later. or you can resort to ear buds and you IPOD. after dis connecting your battery cable, and the injector connectors, check the resistance on the injector contacts and make sure they are within spec.
incase youre wondering why all this its because some misfire codes can be the same code for multiple issues. especially on cars with coil packs. this is called the shot gun method of fixing cars but in this case if youre not an experienced tech or you dont know the true maintenance history of the vehicle, you will need to try these things. in this order its kinda going from cheapest repair parts to the most expensive. keep in mind that the fuel you use can cause these issues as well. only use the recommended fuel. on volkswagon passats (1999) they recommend premium and i have seen cars come in from running 87 octaine instead of premium 91 octaine. and also on those cars rolling around on 5 bucks worth of gas every day seems to be something those cars dont like. i have had customers leave me thier car to use as my daily driver and i had no issues. a week later i gave it back at no charge and that very day they came back with a CEL. after 3 weeks like this i took them to the gas station and put 91 in the tank and we filled it up. they have never had an issue since. dont ask me why but low gas levels can trip CELs on the 1999 passats for some reason. maybe they got a bad car or something but thats what that car needed to stop getting CELs for misfires

dc2monsta

oh my bad lol i got a 96 integra gsr

dc2monsta

i have been using 91 octane from shell every since i bought the car and i am running ngk platinum plugs, everything im running for the ignition is oem. but i was wondering if a dented header can cause the cel to stay on what chu think? cause i read on a different post that a dented header can cause cel to come on dont know if it would really throw a misfire code tho. i mean it could have a small leak running through it but i dont know imma have to look at it. but thanks for the input bro

natheath

I have two 2000 Honda accord's ex 23a1 with 98,000 miles. I went by the book with this one, and it says check the fuel pressure (which I did -good-), do a valve adjustment (which I did), check compression (-good-), replaced plugs, cap rotor and ignition coil as well as swapping the ignition control module from my other same vehicle. Emptied the gas tank and put new gas in, and I cleaned the injectors while swapping them as well. This was all done at the same time. The vehicle MIL light went out for 5 minutes when I cleaned the injectors. I also replaced the timing belt, balancer belt and water pump. The EGR was cleaned out the same time as the injectors. I still have DTC's multiple misfires and now cylinder 2 and 4 show up with the 1399. Before I had all 4 cylinders 0301,0302,0303,0304 show up. It all happened after filling up at a gas station in Atelboro Mass. The car started to run rough, like it was missing, and it was loosing power. Sort of like running on less cylinders. The MIL still flashes with DTC's 0300,0302,0304,1399. I need to clear them out again and check if all four pop up again. What am I missing? What can I swap from my other vehicle to check the problem?

natheath

Update on recent post. I replaced all fuel injectors and Oxygen sensor in front. However, I am still getting a 1399 reading with sometimes 0302 and sometimes with 0300 and or 0304 with 0304 most prevalent. I changed spark plugs in cylinder 4, yet it did not change anything. Engine still sluggish. Next I will test rear Oxygen sensor for continuity and voltage to PCM. Also, my OBD II tester first specified that this affects my catalyst, Evaporator system and Oxygen Sensor, and now it also specifies the EGR as well. However, no codes for those items were displayed.

natheath

update on recent post. Replaced distributor with no new results. I am thinking about removing the intake manifold and cleaning it along with the EGR valve. Any other changes would be welcome.

natheath

Update to previous post. I replaced the distributor with the one from my other vehicle that works with no change. I was given the suggestion to take a spray bottle with water and spray the vacuum lines and see if there is a leak (The vehicle would do a dance). Next step if clean intake manifold and swap EGR valves. I have an original Honda PGM tester. Can I swap ECM/PCM's from my other 2000 honda accord (has f23a4 engine this one has f23a1 engine)?

natheath

update previous post. Cleaned intake manifold and swapped EGR valves from my working other vehicle. Still same problem with 1399. Code 0304 follows and over a short time 0301 and 0302 with 0303 dtc showing up if I wait long enough. Thinking about changing ECM/PCM. However, I read a post with another Honda user having the same problem, and he thinks it's a way to get the user to the dealer and spend money. Could a valve be sticking even though I checked the compression as good and replaced fuel injectors twice in #4? Just to note there was not that much carbon build up in the intake manifold, plenum or valve body.

natheath

Update: Cylinder leak down test showed no significant results. Swapped TA (air intake) sensor. Same problem. The computer can't finish its analysis, for Catlayst, EGR, Oxygen sensor and Evap systems never complete. However, sometimes the EGR system completes even before I swapped it and cleaned it out. The system is running on whatever backup systems work. Even the Honda PGM tester won't give me any DTC's. What's left?

natheath

Problem Solved! After replacing the spark plug wires originally I tested the resistance according to specs. The wires were suppose to be less than 25k ohms. The old ones were around 8k ohms. These were 0 ohms. However, I never took into account that the insulation might be defective, and that one of the wires were grounding out. Consequently, my short wire (#4 plug) was defective. When I added an additional component to the wire (an inline spark signal tester) the engine was back to normal. It's a good thing no one pays me to diagnose their vehicle, for it would cost them a fortune.

InnerCityNinja

Yes...reviving an old thread....I'm getting P1399 & P1035. I had a different code for the O2 sensor, so I replaced the front O2 sensor a couple of days ago. That's when I 1st got the P1035 code. On a brand new sensor. Check engine light was on but, the car was driving fine. Then all of a sudden while driving up a hill at about 70mph CEL starts flashing. Engine starts sputtering and while I'm coasting down the hill, it turns itself off. I pull over and check the sparkplugs, 3 & 4 were somewhat corroded. Car made it another 2 miles to a Walmart. Got 4 new plugs and installed them, same thing. Had to get it towed home. That was last night. Today I put in brand new NGK plugs, wires, distributor cap, & rotor (also checked 7.5A fuse number 15 on the driver's side fuse panel.... looks good.). Engine still runs like crap, and the same codes come back up. I'm stumped......any suggestions? Didn't use any di-electric grease on wires.....could that be it? Engine is a B16A2

gofuchelo

I've been having the same problem and believe its related to low freon in the air conditioning system. When the engine is at idle, and the freon is low, the air conditioner cycles on and off rapidly and regularly near certain crankshaft position which resonates with the engine timing and causes the engine to 'lug'. Try filling your air conditioning system, or simply keep it off (including keeping the defrost off) when you're idling and watch the problem go away. I've been fighting this problem on a '96 honda civic LX for years and hoped the air-conditioning throttle kicker could be adjusted to solve the problem but haven't been able to find any such adjustment like on some older cars. Another symptom of low coolant in the air-conditioning system, when the levels are very low, the air conditioner compressor won't engage at all and the idle will simply rev to around 1200RPM which appears to the driver like the car is 'running away' without the brake applied. Its simply the air-conditioning throttle increase being applied without the compressor being engaged. I haven't found any mechanics that have come to this same conclusion, but they typically aren't patient enough to watch the engine under proper conditions long enough to see the problem present. Whenever the 'engine lugging' occurs, if it happens for a prolonged time, it will trigger engine mis-fire detection in the computer and will stay in the computer until the next time its reset. I hope this helps.

DaMonkeyManJD

I have all these coming up...

P0301- Cylinder 1 misfiring
P0302- cylinder 2 misfiring
P0303- cylinder 3 misfiring
P0300- random / multiple misfire detected.
P1399- Manufactures control Ignition system OR Misfire

My timing belt snapped last week i changed the water pump and timing, and
I changed out 02 sensor, Dist. Cap, Wires, Plugs, Ignition Rotor, and Temp Sensor. I readjusted the timing and ran a pressure test in plugs (all is fine w/ pressure) and im still getting all those codes..

Ive talked to a few mechanics and they have said it needs a Valve adjustment... Cause at first it was only misfiring in Cylinder 1. then all of a sudden it started misfiring in all 4 and now its over heating. 6 months ago i had a new head gasket put in.

I need help..

ChrisHonda39

I am having a similar issue as well. My 1998 Honda Accord EX 2.3 with 253k and it is misfiring. i as well got the p0301,p0303 and p0304 codes. They are saying misfire and random misfire. I replaced the spark plugs last week with 4 ngk platinum plugs. Had a ripped spark plug wire and swapped it with one off a 1997 accord. The car has a new distributor cap and rotor. I dont know if it needs new wires or head gasket or distriubtor or valve adjustment. I am very concerned and any help would be appreciated.

GSR.BoostedB18C

Misfires with also codes setting lean mixtures can be set by something as simple as a vacuum leak. The most common place is the intake manifold gasket. Other then spark issues the other most common cause is injector issues. With older honda's they can become clogged and cause misfire. Check all these items prior to buying expensive parts

ChrisHonda39

So if you were to give me the steps in order what would be my best case. I can tell you that the car runs mint and if i didnt have an engine light on i wouldnt of guessed it was misfiring, however the only thing i notice is that at idle is sounds like its going to stall when its idling down from accelaration then goes back and idle correctly with little vibration.

hitmanfq

2000 Acura Integra Gs-r 110k
Eh Miss shift, cel came on p1399/ ive done tune up plugs wires rotor cap fuel injection cleaner, i havent done valve adjustment yet. Can someone send me link to how to clean out the egr ports, and i haven't checked the timing.

EGLove88

I have a '96 Civic LX Automatic. And I've been getting the codes p0301 and p1399. I haven't gotten far into it, It just came on yesterday. But i did replace the spark plugs.

Please help with this. I've read this entire forum and nothing seems to be definite.

lsburden

I have a 99 Civic EX. Been having similar problems for about 2yrs? I have noticed that when I step on the gas, either from a start, going up a hill it sputters until I get to about 3k rpm, then it takes off. Exaggerated when the AC is on. It just runs poorly when under a load.

I have had the dealership do the timing and spark plugs (they did the plugs for free). I changed distributor, rotor, ignition coil, and primary O2 sensor.

A friend suggested the fuel filter. I have heard from this thread that the EGR valve, injectors, or spark plug wires could be issues.
the quest continues...

lsburden

new spark plugs did it for me!
now I have a P0420 code to take car of.

Buzzerd

Have a 1998 CRV LX with P1399 & P0303... had 2 other codes but a new upstream o2 censor, catalytic converter and a new distributor washed those away. So got the crv inspected, passed but that night these new codes appeared, wtf? Can it be the distributer? Changed the spark plugs, plug wires and no change. Very fristrating. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
Buzz

crk112

I have a 1998 Honda Civic EX.. D16Y8 stock engine. In the past few weeks I started getting the P0303 accompanied by P1399 (which nobody seems to know what that is..???). It only happens at idle and more recently the engine has started to run a little rougher at idle when it throws the code... noticeably misfiring.

I just finished an overhaul about 15,000mi ago. That included new plugs, wires, distributor cap, ignition coil, ICM, rings, bearings, CKF sensor, timing belt, water pump, head gasket, and had the head worked at the machine shop. Several of these things are referenced in the service manual and elsewhere as possible causes but hopefully I can rule them out simply because they're still so new.

The Honda service manual has a pretty decent section to troubleshoot all possible DTC codes with flow charts... Including the ones in question here. The book lists many possible causes;

• Fuel pump insufficient pressure
• Fuel line clogged
• Fuel pressure regulator stuck open
• EGR system malfunction
• Distributor malfunction
• Ignition control module malfunction
• MAP sensor range/performance; poor response
• Valves carbon deposit
• Low compression
• IAC valve malfunction
• VTEC system malfunction
• Fuel does not meet owner's manual spec (wrong octane i think this means)
• HO2S
• HO2S circuit
• Fuel injector clogged, fuel leakage, air leakage
• Fuel injector circuit open or shorted
• Valve clearance out of spec

The book also describes specific things to check first depending on what conditions cause the misfire.. such as only low rpm and load, only accelerating, only high rpm and load, or unspecific.

The possible causes are many... it depends a little on what symptoms you are having and when you're having them. I scanned a few key pages out of the book so if anyone is interested send me a private message and I'll send them your way.

Please note that it does say if your MIL (CEL) blinks it means the misfire is bad enough to cause catalyst damage.

In my specific case I plan to check the valve clearances before I do much else.. just because I know they've been messed with recently.

Hope this helps.. I'll try to keep the thread updated on my progress.

Curtis

crk112

Alright everyone I promised I would keep you posted so here it is.

The troubleshooting process for a single cylinder misfire focuses on a pretty narrow range of possibilities... I can just about guarantee it's going to be either plug, wire, injector, or compression. Since I just overhauled the engine I ruled out compression right away (but kept an open mind... just in case). I tried a different plug wire and swapped plugs but the problem remained on cylinder three. So the next step was injectors.

I ran a bottle of the Lucas Octane Booster (in the RED BOTTLE) and the problem went away. Seriously, no joke. It took 100mi or so but gradually I noticed an improvement in idle performance.. then after awhile the check engine light stopped coming on every time I was at idle.. and since then it's been idling smoother and smoother.

Hope this helps. If anyone is still having trouble I'd be happy to provide some pages from the service manual.

Curtis

crk112

Also ...

Since the P1399 isn't listed in the Honda service manual and my DTC scanner (AutoTap) says it's "Glow Plug Circuit High Side, High Input" (obviously not right on a D16Y8), I got in touch with Honda America. They said simply that it's just another code for a misfire.

dnacr70

I have a 99 CR-V with 225k. I am also getting p0300, p0301, p0302, p0303, and p1399. It is verry rough. almost shuddering at idle, it smoothes out alot at higher revs, and runs perfectly, with full power and smoothness during acceleration. I had replaced plugs/wires/cap/rotor this spring, and all seem to be in ok shape. The car has been flawless since I bought it several years ago with 70k on it. At this point, I am layed off and do not have the luxory of dropping this on a shop. Any ideas? Thanks.