Tylerjdmgsr

I installed my hytech header today on my 99 gsr ( not sure if thats what caused it)But, I tried to start my and it wont turn over If i try to start it and press gas it will catch but as soon as I take my foot off the gas it dies.. I got a cel and it was code 15 for ignition output signal. Is this do to a bad distributor? If anyone has experienced this issue,and can help Id highly appreciate it thanks.

Tylerjdmgsr

anybody?

Tylerjdmgsr

Thanks HT oh so F**&%#* helpful.

mark@silbernage

I'd look at: ignitor, distributor, ignition coil... if you're handy with a voltmeter, check and see if it's getting voltage to the distributor.

? Good luck

preludesiR01

i have the same problem thing is changed ecu ,dizzy,coil,ignition harness,and main relay have you u gotten any answers to ur problem ???

dlo253

So, got this code 15 today. Tach started bouncing like crazy, cel and battery light came on. Car died. Fired up, did it again right away. Then would only crank, but not start at all. Pulled the code, got the code 15. Then i pulled the plug wires, had A LOT of oil in them, due to spark plug grommets i am guessing. Replaced the spark plug grommets and valve cover gasket, also got new plug wires since one was kinda messed up i discovered. So i did all that, reset the ecu, fired her up. She started right away like she should. Drove around the block, seemed fine, let it sit and run for a while then drove around the block again, it all seemed fine. Turned the car off, then ended up having to go somewhere like 20 minutes later. Figured i was good, got about a mile. Started doin it again. Same ****, same code. Motor is a 91 ls, less than 10k on distributor. So i really hope its not that. Lol, what do you guys suggest? Tomorrow im gonna go trace some wires and make sure they are in good working condition. Oh and i AM getting spark. Accidentally shocked the hell out of myself while pulling a plug wire in the damn dark! lol. Any help will be GREATLY appreciated. Been laid up in the hospital, was just able to get back to work tomorrow, now this. Thanks in advanced.

el crapitan

likely the coil. since the oil in the spark plug boots causes resistance, that could have damaged the coil, since the current wouldn't be able to move through to the plugs

dlo253

Yeah, that is probably it. Been too stressed to think straight haha. Gonna go out tomorrow and check the wiring, then test the coil. Hopefully is is just that. If not i'm guessing it is the igniter.

rosskn90

sounds like a ignitor , if i remeber rite the ignitor sends the signal to the rpm tach , at least it does on the prelude.... lol , if your getting spark wont be the coil , the ignitors when they get hot can act funny (intermittently) not work and work , or just take a **** when hot and work when i cools down again..

el crapitan

yes, that's true. i'd only figured the coil because the problem started to occur after the oily spark plug boots were discovered. but a dancing tach is indicative of igniter failure. however, if the coil were dying, wouldn't that effect the igniter and it's signal to tach?

fcm

Maybe if you had waited more then 4 hrs, but I guess you think we are here just for you and we do not have jobs that we go to during the day.

So your F**&%#* welcome. 94

dlo253

Well, after going out and looking at it today in some light. Noticed that the blue wire to the distributor on the harness, had electrical tape on it. Pulled that off to find a hackjob. barely any wire on the plug side, and less than 1/4" was bare. Looks like the previous owner just kinda held em together then taped it..Surprised it took this long to do something. So I need to try to find a pin and extend the wire or something. And hopefully that will be my fix. The blue wire is for the coil IIRC, correct? I was also ruling out the coil since i had spark.. But after finding that wire, maybe it starting cutting on and off intermittently? Guess i'll get out and fix that wire, and report back. Haha, thanks guys.

rosskn90

blue wire goes to the gauge and on obd2 crank sensors [i think] but i think its also a signal wire to the pcm not 100% i have to look on "hds" and look it up but i really dont have too much time to do that.. but if i get a chance too ill check it out and GL with the wire fix hope that max the difference

rosskn90

not really coil just contributes to spark it gets signal from the ignitor/pcm if i remember right cyp > ecu >ign > coil > rotor/cap/wires then plug haha

el crapitan

good to know
and yes, i believe blu wire is tach signal. but i wasn't aware that it was monitored by the pcm

dlo253

Yeah figured out the blue wire was just for the tach real quick. Lol, nice incorrect wiring diagram, weird. Lol. So still no progress. Not able to go anywhere, dont have many tools here since im not at my home. Came out today she started right up, doesnt sound as healthy as normal for some reason. Drove it around the block a few times and it didnt do it again...But im not gonna go thru that **** again, i dont trust it. Gonna try to have a buddy or sumthn bring me a volt meter so i can see wtf is going on.

dlo253

Just went around the block again, to a better test road. Hit about 40, cel comes on then it bogs out. Feels like its in limp mode or sumthn. Cut the key and turn it back on it usually starts up, but keeps doing the same thing. So i just coasted back home. But after that drive its confirmed it happens pretty consistently at about 40 mph....4th gear.

EDIT: To add to the mix, i pulled the codes again just now. Getting the 15 still, and 20 (ELD). I have gotten that a couple times before but i can restart the car and it is all good again.. So now with that added, maybe there are some other things to look into? My boy said he can delete that from the ecu or whatever... Any suggestions of things to look at until i get my hands on a voltmeter?

el crapitan

you'll need a voltmeter to test the eld. they are somewhat common to get stuck reading a certain voltage or read voltage erratically. and that could cause the symptoms you've described. not saying it is your problem, of course. sometimes the eld code is thrown because the ecu believes there is an inaccurate reading, when it's actually another issue.
but i'd test it before moving onto anything else. if not to confirm, to at least cancel it out

rosskn90

like i said not 100% sure with it going to ecu.. lol i sort of forgot alot of that stuff but ill get back into it soon lol

dlo253

Figured I Better report back in case somebody else gets this problem. It ended up being my ignitor. It would get hot And quit working until the car cooled fully. Replaced it and we are good as new. Damn dizzy was bnib with less than 10k, bastards! Lol. Thanks for the help And suggestions guys.

el crapitan

ye those taiwan replacements are junk. so common for problems to arise from them.
i'd sooner buy used oem

dlo253

Yeah, you get what you pay for Haha. Anything happens again I'm goin oem lol.

rosskn90

or you can do the aem coil pack set up haha