DC4FI

Whats up everyone, New to the forums.

Yesterday I picked up a 95 LS Coupe.

Anyways, I picked up the car for dirt cheap so for me the fresh paint job, clean title, and perfect interior was worth it on it's own for me. Long story short I have run into some issues motor wise and have decided to go with a forced induction build.

This is my first Honda/Acura and my first real motor build. Done minor things in the past like upgrade turbos and bolt-ons (DSMs) but never went for a build process and to be honest I am lost. I've been grinding through the internet, searching forums and it is a bit overwhelming for me at this point.

I figured I would come here since it seems like quite a few of you have knowledge and experience and could help steer me in the right direction if I was able to explain what I am going for.

Goal:

Sticking with the B18B1 block.
Wanting to have a daily driver with 300whp
Forced induction (turbo)
Most importantly reliable.

I've read and seen many times on here that you choose 2 out of the 3.
Cheap. Reliable. Fast.

I have $2500 for use right now for the engine build. I am not looking for a race/track car. I basically want a daily driver that has some power behind it from time to time on the highway and nothing more. The $2500 budget is strictly for the motor and nothing else. I am not expecting a full turbo kit, motor build, and everything else for that amount.

So I guess my question is, is it possible with $2500 to rebuild the block up to be 300whp/boost ready and maintain a reliable daily driver status or am I just living in a pipe dream?

Appreciate any suggestions/comments you guys have. Thanks!

P.S. I also understand that tuning is very very important with reliability. There is a shop here that has a very good reputation with tuning and specializes in Honda. There is no doubt they would be the ones doing it.

B20ztek

iTrader: (1)

If it were me, I would pick up a GSR and do an OEM rebuild with the 2500.
You said the motor has some problems, what are they exactly?

kyden

$2500 should be more than enough to build a shortblock, but you have to decide at that point if you're only gonna stick with 300whp. if you're gonna go forged, i really wouldn't expect it to do 200k miles like an oem cast setup.

dickdragon

If u do most of the install/labor work than u have more $$$ to play with!

DC4FI

I was told that it "smoked a little bit at high rpms". When I test drove it and what not it didn't seem to smoke at all. After driving it for about an hour on the highway on my way back home I noticed that the smoking started.

After getting home the car inside had the odor of fuel and possibly burnt oil. Any quick throttle (over 15-20%) pours out smoke from the exhaust. Long story short, After inspection and the highway drive the car is running super rich and burning oil pretty bad, back of the motor is oil soaked as well.

I am also noticing little things here and there on the motor where it looks like they replaced some parts (distributor for instance) and they just kinda put it back on with whatever bolts they happened to find.

For my own peace of mind I have decided to pull the motor and build it instead of trying to track down every single little thing that they might have messed up or might be wrong on the motor.

Build
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I don't want to do a build that is pushing the limits at 300whp. I want to build it where 300whp is a nice/safe/reliable goal without stressing the motor too bad.

I completely understand (from what I can tell reading) that no matter what I do it prob won't be as reliable as a stock oem motor NA, but I just want to get as close as I can.

I guess where I am at now is trying to figure out whether to..

Rebuild the LS with forged
(JE/Eagle lower compression combo, APR headstuds, etc..)

B20 swap
(although I have read that the cylinder walls are thin, also this would take some $$$ out of the build side)

GSR Swap
(Again would take some $$$ out of the build side)

Regardless I know my end goal is 300whp and boosted. V-Tec/Non V-Tech doesn't really matter to me. Again, daily driven, I don't have a lead foot and have been in wayyy too much trouble with law driving that I won't be racing at lights or anything like that. I just want some power behind the teggy, and I want to do it the right way

kyden

if you want it to last, i would probably go with 4032 high silicon pistons then. supertech/srp pistons.

DC4FI

Putting a list together here. Didn't do too much digging as for prices but just throwing something together to see if there is anything I've missed or should change up.

The List:

OEM Complete Gasket Kit $50
APR Main Stud Kit $100
APR Head Studs $130
ACL Race Bearings Set $125
Wiseco Pistons / Eagle Rods $800.00
(K542M815 B18A1/B1 81.50mm (+.020" Overbore) 9.3:1 - 9.8:1)

Hondata S300 $500

Machine Work $500 (honed/bored - balanced crank) (estimating cost)

Replacing:

Water pump/Belts $100

Oil Pump $100

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Appreciate the help and advice guys!

kyden

do not do main studs.

DC4FI

Why not? I am just asking for knowledge purposes. Learning :D

Schister66

Read the FAQ in the Forced Induction forum...when you're done, ask your questions in there. You'll get quicker/better help than in the Model-specific forums.

DC4FI

Alrighty, will do. Thanks for the info.