lbrendel

Guys this is my first post, but i am really in a jam and need some serious help.

I was doing my timing belt in my 98' teg and everything was going great until i went to put my new water pump back on and i tried to put one of the longer bolts in the shorter holes and snapped it off...

Well after reading a couple of threads that talked about the same problem i realized that my only option was to raise the engine (since it was the top bolt) and drill and use an ez out.

Well as if things could get worse...the ez out broken inside the stuck bolt!! Why me!!??

Anyway...looking forward...i have three options as i see it and i wanted some opinions on them:

1)since the hole is all screwed up i can put the old water pump back on temperarily and use the hole as a straight "pilot" for an oversized cobolt or carbide drill bit and thread a helicoil in the hole.

Problem: I am not sure that the bit will drill through the broken ez out...

2) i read another thread where someone filled a hole with some jb weld and left it like that...

Problem: I talked with a good reliable mechanic and he said unless all 5 bolts are tight around that water pump...he's pretty sure it will leak.

3) I have access to a machine shop and get someone to make me a bracket that will pilot in the water pump hole (that was supposed to be for the damaged threads)
and attaches under a bolt right above for a plastic cover...(pretty heavy bolt though)

Problem: Will the bracket...assuming its made right hold the water pump tight enough not to leak there?

Sorry this post was so long...but i really need some help!

Thanks in advance!

If anyone needs to see pics to help i can try to send some...

Finger Lickin' good

this SAME thing happened to me, expect I torqued the screws to 100 FT LBS, not 100 IN. LBS...God, I new it was a bad idea, checked and rechecked the book, and could have swarn it said FT lbs....so I went ahead with it....My dad came home, told him, he was like NO WAY!!!! I rechecked it for a 3rd time, and it said IN. LBS

Anywho, I went ahead and just replaced the entire motor, stock ls longblocks go for 650-700, labor is 450 at the shop I went to, new engine mounts was like 80. 1250 bucks later I was back driving. I have no fear of replacing my tb next time, i should be the tb master after that incident.

lbrendel

thanks...but the last thing i really wanted to do was replace my engine! I really hope that isn't my only option.

Ebony and Ivory

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-CeReaL#4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this SAME thing happened to me, expect I torqued the screws to 100 FT LBS, not 100 IN. LBS...God, I new it was a bad idea, checked and rechecked the book, and could have swarn it said FT lbs....so I went ahead with it....My dad came home, told him, he was like NO WAY!!!! I rechecked it for a 3rd time, and it said IN. LBS

Anywho, I went ahead and just replaced the entire motor, stock ls longblocks go for 650-700, labor is 450 at the shop I went to, new engine mounts was like 80. 1250 bucks later I was back driving. I have no fear of replacing my tb next time, i should be the tb master after that incident.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You seriously need to leave HT. Replace the whole motor for a bolt, especially a timing bolt or a water pump bolt? I dont know what you have to do to fix it, but I know it's certainly not replacing the motor. To the person who needs help, just let a shop do it. shouldnt cost more than 100 dollars.

I swear people on HT are getting dumber and dumber.

Dogginator

If you have clearance, you could place a larger nut over the broken bolt/ez out. Use a welder to weld the nut to the bolt and then use a wrench to remove the broken bolt. I assume that you didn't strip the threads. Good luck!